Meet the designers putting Limerick City on the fashion map

Limerick School of Art & Design graduates Aoife McNamara and Mary O’Sullivan were part of 55 designers who showcased their designs at Ireland’s first ever Fashion Week in recent months

Aoife McNamara at Aoife's Cottage in Adare, Limerick. Picture: Brian Arthur

Thanks to a strong emphasis on sustainability and crafting love letters to their beloved county, two Limerick designers have helped put the Treaty City on the fashion map.

Both graduates from Limerick School of Art & Design Aoife McNamara and Mary O’Sullivan were part of 55 designers who showcased their designs at Ireland’s first ever Fashion Week in recent months.

After starting her brand in 2019, Aoife McNamara found a home for her designs in a thatch cottage on Adare’s main street.

Being Ireland’s first B Corp fashion house, Aoife’s focus is on sustainability and creating pieces rooted in Irish tradition.

“Over the past six years, we've really had that key focus on sustainability and innovation through design. We’re always looking at new fabrics, new textiles. We developed a seaweed textiles, a 100% Irish wool textile, and that's a project we're still currently working on in this season,” Aoife told the Irish Examiner.

At just 10 years old, after receiving her first sewing machine, she says she knew she wanted to become a fashion designer.

Aoife McNamara: 'The fashion industry is one of the biggest polluters in the world. I think a lot of people forget about that a lot of the time, or they like to turn a blind eye.' Picture: Brian Arthur

She worked for Marc Jacobs in New York as part of her college work before heading to Paris, where she worked during fashion week. After which she worked for Natalie Yuksel and Laurence Schuler.

As she constantly thinks of ways to create contemporary garments while still focusing on Irish fabrics and materials, Aoife believes the choices made by those working in the industry can make an impact.

“I think sometimes people don't even think of fashion as shopping sustainably or unsustainably. But realistically, the fashion industry is one of the biggest polluters in the world. I think a lot of people forget about that a lot of the time, or they like to turn a blind eye.

“That's why we brought in our retreats and our educational workshops, because I think that a lot of misconceptions around fashion is that it's not having an impact,” she says.

From retreats which aim to bring people back to nature to sewing workshops, she notes it’s no longer about being a fashion brand — but about “something a lot bigger than that”.

After luxury and tech entrepreneur Ashley McDonnell announced the launch of Ireland Fashion Week in April and in October, seven shows were hosted in venues across Ireland.

Aoife, who presented her collections at Ballynahinch Castle, emphasises how welcomed IFW was.

For me over the past six years, we hadn't had anything like that before. These incredible designers in Ireland are getting to showcase on a world stage, which has been needed for so long.

“I suppose a lot of the times people leave, but I really think people are starting to stay in Ireland now, and more jobs are getting created within the fashion industry.”

After having her first showcase in New York’s West Village this December, the designer is looking forward to developing the brand in the coming year.

“That’s a huge market that we're currently looking at. We really see the brand developing into the New York market over the coming year. It’s a big push for us and we've had a lot of customers there already.” 

Mary O'Sullivan with her daughter Lily at Ireland Fashion Week.

For her, the dream would be to have a pop-up in New York’s SoHo and move over for a year to “get my feet on the ground and figure it out”.

For aspiring designers, Aoife has one nugget of advice — to believe in “your own ability”.

“I think as creatives, we're always comparing ourselves to others. Sometimes, your strength might be another person's weakness, and their strength is your weakness. You’re not going to be really good at every single area, but I think focusing on that area that you are really good at and cherishing that is so much more important than looking at others and comparing yourself.” 

At Ireland Fashion Week's Irish Roots show, Mary O’Sullivan was one of the nine independent emerging designers to showcase her garments.

She is known best for her play on a toile de Jouy — a type of printed pattern cloth, the concept of which originated in France — which she uses to showcase some of her favourite spots in Limerick city. 

A bespoke design crafted by Mary O'Sullivan was worn by John Moran at his first mayoral ball, and more recently the dress worn by Limerick rose Leah McMahon at the Rose of Tralee.

For Mary, all the milestones still seem surreal and being part of the fashion week has reaffirmed the idea  she has chosen the “right path”.

“I feel like I'm only now beginning or like I'm at the starting line of my journey, even though I have a couple of years of design work.

“To me, presenting along heritage brands at Ireland Fashion Week was incredible. To be involved in something of that scale as well really was interesting because it gave me a lot of industry insight into what makes a great fashion show,” she says.

For creatives to feel more supported, Mary says funding is essential.

It’s important to make sure artists are supported. I do think more funding and more grants would be kind of central to making all the creative industries thrive more.

“Because I suppose when you're so concerned about putting food on the table, paying the next electricity or gas bill, then it's like your mind is so busy with trying to survive that you actually can't think about creativity. 

“Whereas with the assistance of grants and funding, it allows you the breathing space to actually access that creativity again, and produce work.” 

At the moment, she is working on a collection of silk scarves representing Limerick, but also “tongue in cheek” symbols resonating with those living in Ireland.

“I’m hoping to launch the collection in February or March, so that's currently what has got my attention,” she says.

Mary O'Sullivan: Presenting along heritage brands at Ireland Fashion Week was incredible. Picture: Sarah Edel Hayes

However, she is still focusing on how her garments can share people’s stories.

“I had a bride who was getting married at Christmas time, she wanted to create a corset to wear on her wedding day, but one that incorporated a landmark from her hometown where the couple had their first date,” she recalls.

Recently, she got commissioned to mark the move of Limerick’s Barrington hospital.

“I have an inquiry form up on my website to have a design consultation and let the creative process begin then from there,” she says.

One thing is sure for the Limerick designer, representation matters — and Ireland Fashion Week gave the country the boost it needed.

“Don’t be disheartened just because you're not in London or wherever. There is an industry here and there are many ways to get involved and start being involved. It’s about shooting your shot, being brave and courageous and sending an email about taking an internship opportunity,” Mary says.

Meanwhile, a former Garda station in Limerick is set to become home to a new fashion museum, further placing the county on the fashion map.

The station on Mary Street in the city centre will be converted into the Limerick Museum of Fashion, which will permanently house the Limerick Lace and Sybil Connolly Collections.

The two collections are currently showcased only on a temporary or occasional basis by the Limerick Museum and the Hunt Gallery.

Once construction is complete at the King’s Island site, the building will also include a ‘fashion incubator’, giving Limerick and the region’s brightest fashion design talent a space to collaborate, develop their businesses, and showcase their creations.