Last of the summer finery is best in show

THE best was certainly kept for last as London Fashion Week closed its womenswear schedule with a kaleidoscope of colour.

Mary Katrantzou opened the morning at Waterloo Station’s old Eurostar terminal with a graphic garden party.

Models walked the perimeter of a carnation- clad runway sporting colour-blocked floral frocks, banded trouser suits and puffball dresses, flanked with diaphanous trains.

A delicious tension was evident in the Greek designer’s fabric-blocking, as smudged landscape prints competed with chunky abstract patterns for dominance; with industrial jewellery providing an elegant edge.

The tone of the collection, however, remained soufflé-light in its execution with trans- parent textiles trapping its floral offering on biker jackets and in shift dresses; and sherbet lipstick lend- ing models a quirky air.

As for showstoppers, Katrantzou’s finale dress — an asymmetric daisy print frock — was one to remember. How she made scrap metal resemble oversized crystals is a mystery; but a dreamy one nonetheless.

The colour clash continued with Roksanda Ilincic, who took a more relaxed tone with her collection of soft separates. High-waist paper bag skirts, drop shoulder jackets, laissez- faire pyjama pants and slouchy beanie hats made for the look of devil-may- care dame on her day off. Shots of hot pink and Kelly green sparked frisson with graphic block prints in mint; white and ochre on jersey maxi dresses spoke of style- conscious comfort.

Conversely, Aquascutum offered a distinctly monochrome tone with a Guinness palette of cream and black shot through with intermittent pops of yellow and green.

Eye-catching details included PVC maxi skirts, tops, trousers and biker jackets — worn individually with loose sober separates and winkle-picking brogues. This marks a welcome new direction for the British heritage brand — one that remains true to both time-honoured tailoring and future possibilities.

Finishing off fashion week was Galway girl Joanne Hynes, whose Plastiscope collection caused a ripple of excitement through the packed audience at Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

Models sporting beehive hairdos walked trance-like to a mash-up of 60s B-movie riffs and funfair refrains. The otherworldly feel underscored the Hynes heroine — an abstract yet archetypal girl eschewing boundaries and embracing the freedom of her position. Between the polar opposites of chaos and control, stood a colour-blocked ensemble of foiled appliqué leather jackets, layered-over leather pencil and sequin lurex tube skirts with couture latex stockings finishing the look.

Hynes’ outré neckpieces took centre stage, how- ever, with the front row reeling over oversized animal pendants and larger-than-life lamé clutch bags — the perfect accessories for the late night party girl.

“It’s the right side of wrong,” says Joanne of her eclectic Edie Sedgewick ensembles. We think it’s just perfect. Be prepared. Fashionistas have started writing their Santa lists early.

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