ONLY THE most foolhardy of tourists opt to drive in India, it takes a particular kind of daredevil personality to negotiate the tangle of cars, tuc-tucs, scooters, motorbikes, rickshaws, push bikes and gaily painted trucks with an occasional camel or bullock cart as well. The cows are sacred so they just amble nonchalantly through it all unruffled by the endless tooting of horns.