THERE is much to be said for Ireland’s recent network of commuter and tourist-friendly motorways — they swish you from doorstep to doorstep in so much less time than when you had to slowly go through every town from here to there and back again. 

I KNOW what you’re thinking. You’re looking at the Tab details in the panel at the end of this review and wondering how in the name of Superman did three people get away with dinner and a bottle of wine for less than €50?

There are two ways of serving this dish; in country districts books don’t bother with the sauce bordelaise but simply top the steak with bone marrow and pour the pan juices dissolved in a little red wine over it. Any good cut of steak cut 5cm/2in thick can be used. If possible ask the butcher to extract marrow from marrow bones, otherwise use a sharp knife to remove it yourself.