Surprise and seduction in the sparkling Seychelles

From sea creatures to spices and coral reefs to Cocos de Mer, Irene Feighan finds nature and sustainability at the heart of a Seychelles adventure

Rainforest sweeps down to the Indian Ocean on Mahe

It's dusk. I’m sitting on the ledge of a lone beachside cabana on the western coast of Mahé island.

Out of the shadows of a nearby mangrove, a man appears. He stops to remove his sandals and t-shirt before striding into the ocean, holding a long metal hook in one hand and wearing a net bag on his back. He pulls goggles down over his eyes, pushes a snorkel into his mouth, and disappears under the waves. Other than the loud Indian Miner birds settling into their nests high in the trees behind me, there are no other witnesses. I feel compelled to stay on watch and scan the waters for signs of life.