Forget about summer — here are 12 reasons to visit Stockholm in autumn and winter

The Swedish capital serves up a special charm in autumn and winter with fika, foraging, festivals and fewer crowds, writes Sarah Rodrigues

The mercury may be dropping as autumn yields to winter but this only increases opportunities for Scandi cosiness.

Stockholm is deservedly popular in summer, its watery surrounds sparkling under the light of long days and warm sun. At the same time, the Swedish capital offers milder temperatures than southern European destinations, making exploring pleasurable, rather than a sweaty chore. Time spent relaxing on urban beaches is interspersed with refreshing swims, and the city is alive with festivals and events.

Hold your horses until the end of August, however and you’ll benefit not only from lower prices on both airfares and accommodation, but also from fewer crowds and more opportunities to engage with locals. The mercury may be dropping as autumn yields to winter but this only increases opportunities for Scandi cosiness.

1. Stockholm is celebrated for being a city with vast green spaces and this, in autumn, translates to glorious shades of burnt yellow, russet, and ochre. That crisp Swedish air lends an additional brightness to the daytime hours, which shows off the foliage to even greater advantage — a dazzling show of colour before winter sets in.

Hagaparken is part of the Royal National Park and easily accessible from the city centre

For some of the best leaf-peeping, head for the north-western corner of the city: Hagaparken is part of the Royal National Park and easily accessible from the city centre. There are also three palaces in the vicinity; likewise, Djurgarden puts on a wonderful display of autumn colours and is home to a concentration of cultural attractions. As they say in Sweden: Sla tva flugor i en small (hit two flies with one swat).

2. Autumn offers food lovers an abundance of flavours, many of which can be found under your own steam. Thanks to Sweden’s ‘Allemansraten’ — a right of public access — you’re able to roam the forests and pick your fill of mushrooms, berries, and plants. Nor will you be alone — foraging is incredibly popular with locals, and you may even encounter chefs from some of the capital’s top restaurants, on the hunt for locally-sourced ingredients.

Thanks to Sweden’s ‘Allemansraten’ — a right of public access — you’re able to roam the forests and pick your fill of mushrooms, berries, and plants.

If you’re not confident about identifying what’s safe (and not) to eat, you’ll find a number of guides and operators available to help you. Alternatively, you could visit one of the many ‘pick your own’ (sjalvplock) sites — or head out on a seafood safari on Sweden’s west coast, with lobster the prize catch from mid-September to December.

3. If your appreciation of seasonal flavours lands on the more refined side, then another plus about off-season Stockholm is the relative ease with which you’ll be able to land reservations at those sought-after restaurants, including the city’s 12 Michelin-starred ones, such as Frantzen ( restaurantfrantzen.com). 

Frentzen, with its three Michelin stars

Reasonably priced and wildly popular, Prospero ( prospero-restaurant.com) opened in 2019 and has attracted locals and tourists ever since. Other recommended options include Gazza, Solen, and Restaurang Hantverket. The 24-seater Bar Agrikultur doesn’t take reservations, but your wait for the smetana and honey-topped salt-brined cucumber is bound to be shorter outside of summer.

4. Sunbathing and swimming, or exploring the city’s many cultural institutions? The Faustian struggle that Stockholm delivers in summer is real, but you can simplify your life choices when the weather starts to turn. After all, where better to shelter from the sometimes bitter easterly winds than at the National Museum, appreciating the works of some of Sweden’s most celebrated artists, such as Carl Larsson and Anders Zorn? Or at the Nobel Prize Museum, where objects donated by past winners provide insights into their research? Also well worth a visit (which must be done as part of a guided tour) is Stockholm’s City Hall, where the annual Nobel Prize banquet is held.

The Vasa Museum has reduced admission prices off-season

Another benefit of visiting off-season is that some institutions, such as the Vasa Museum, have reduced admission prices (230 SEK (€21) May-October; 195 SEK (€18) during the rest of the year) Here, you’ll see the 16th century Vasa warship, retrieved from the ocean bed to which it sank when just 1,000 metres into its maiden voyage. And of course, no visit to Stockholm would be complete without a trip to the ABBA museum, with its promising “Walk in, Dance out” slogan.

5. Who said festivals were just for summer? Many events get under way once the days are shorter, such as the Stockholm Jazz Festival (October) and Stockholm International Film Festival (November). Look out, too, for various traditional events, such as the Autumn Fair on one of the city’s islands, Djurgarden. Here you’ll find Skansen, an open-air museum, where you can step back in time into a world of heritage crafts, games, and entertainment.

Traditional decorations at the Christmas markets

Come winter and the city sparkles with the twinkly lights of the Christmas Markets. Grab a warming mug of glogg (mulled wine) to wash down your gingerbread, and enjoy the ambience. December 13 also sees the celebration of St Lucia, with white-gowned, singing children walking the city streets in a procession that culminates with a concert at Stockholm Cathedral.

6. The Danes may have popularised hygge, but the Swedes are no stranger to their own form of cosy charm when the temperatures drop. 

The Swedes are no stranger to their own form of cosy charm

Fika is no mere coffee break — it’s a cherished tradition that involves significant connection with one’s companions and surroundings — and it’s so woven into Swedish culture that the word fika is used interchangeably, as both a noun and verb. Although taking time over fika happens year-round, it takes on an especially endearing quality in autumn and winter, when cafes feature low lighting and candles, chairs are draped with blankets, and the smell of cinnamon buns hangs sweetly in the air. A pumpkin spice latte has nothing on this experience.

7. If summer means lounging on urban beaches and jumping into the invigorating waters of the Stockholm archipelago, then winter is the time to get your skates on, with pop-up ice rinks appearing all over the city. Head to Kungstradgarden in the city centre; other popular options include Vasaparken and St Eriksplan and all are free (although skates must be hired, if you don’t have your own). 

Children at the ice rink in the Kungstragarden

Weather permitting, you may even be able to have the totally back-to-nature experience of skating on one of the frozen lakes — Trekanten is the closest, and taking every safety precaution is essential. For the best experience, book with a guide, such as Stockholm Adventures ( stockholmadventures.com).

8. That said, there’s absolutely no reason why you can’t jump into the water in the colder weather — doing so is part of what Swedish sauna culture depends on. While most Scandinavian countries have their own take on the tradition, in Sweden it’s called Bastu and takes place in a badstuga, or sweat hut, where you roast for up to about 15 minutes before immersing your body into freezing temperatures. 

A waterside bastun, or sauna.

Tanto Bastun is centrally located on Sodermalm, giving visitors the opportunity to plunge into the Baltic Sea after working up a sweat. Note that public access is limited — see tantobastuforening.se for information. Elsewhere, Bastu de Hellasgarden is a popular choice thanks to its natural surroundings. Here, it’s Lake Kalltorpssjon you’ll jump into; in winter, when it’s frozen over, a hole is cut into the ice ( hellasgarden.se).

9. Not everyone lives for the photo opps, but there’s no denying that good ones abound after summer’s over: The crowds have dispersed and the light is moodier. Dark skies, street lights, and a fall of rain make the cityscape ripe for reflective images, especially in Gamla Stan, where the coloured facades look extra gorgeous by night.

Sunset view over the Old Town in Sodermalm district

Elsewhere, the skyline shimmers in the waters surrounding the city. There’s also, of course, the aforementioned bright palette of autumn days… but if you love the cinematic quality of Nordic noir, then those dark evenings are where you’ll find your long shadows, poetic melancholy, and dark/light contrasts.

10. In a city as watery as Stockholm, boat travel is second nature, and taking ferries between its many islands is something that both travellers and locals do. There’s also, as of last year, the Nova, the world’s first electric hydrofoil ferry line, which has been hailed for slashing travel times and reducing emissions.

However, although the ferries operate year-round, the Nova doesn’t, with its season only restarting after the thaw, in May.

Stockholm is a watery city

In winter, however, Stromma ( stromma.com) offers the thrill of a trip on an ice-breaking ship, where you’re swaddled in warm blankets on deck to maximise the views of icy seascapes and stark coastal beauty. Sailing from the city’s quaysides to Fjäderholmarna islands, you’ll get to observe Stockholm at its Winter Wonderland, snow-dusted best — and, conditions permitting — plough thunderously through some ice, as well.

11. Scandi style is rightly coveted by those with an aesthetic sensibility and a passion for fashion — and when it’s cold outside, you need no further excuse to spend a few hours boutique and studio hopping.

Leading Swedish fashion brand, Filippa K

From Acne Studios and COS to Filippa K and Stutterheim on the clothing front, and from Svenskt Tenn and Designtorget for gifts, homewares, and furnishings, you’ll have ample reason to escape the chill. Until, that is, you find yourself indulging in a few sleek winter wardrobe pieces that demand to be seen on the street.

12 It’s a rare occurrence but then, nature doesn’t perform on demand just because you’ve driven further north. The Northern Lights do sometimes — in deep midwinter, between November and February — reward the faithful, illuminating clear winter skies just outside of the city centre.

The Northern lights

And even if they don’t make an appearance, there’s likely to be a light show of a different kind to be admired: That of thousands of stars piercing the dark bowl of the Swedish winter sky.

Escape Notes

• SAS connects Dublin to Stockholm daily in just over two hours. flysas.com
• Learn more about Stockholm and plan your Swedish city break this autumn at visitsweden.com