Nashville: Ship off to the capital of country music
Guitar-playing live in Nashville. Credit: Donn Jones.
Dust off your cowboy boots and get ready to tap your feet, because Aer Lingus now flies direct from Dublin to Nashville, the Country Music Capital of the World.
The Tennessee capital is also home to the Grand Ole Opry which, as well as being the world’s longest running radio broadcast, is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year.
The Opry has been held at its current location, Opry House, only since 1974.
This is about a 20-minute drive northeast of Downtown, where I started my Nashville explorations at the historic, iconic Ryman Auditorium ( ryman.com), where tour options allow you to venture backstage, learn more about its long connection with the Opry’s past, or see a live performance on almost any night of the week.
Naturally, live performance is something that Nashville does exceptionally well. Strolling 10 minutes from the Ryman, I found myself in the thick of the action: on Honky Tonk Highway, where bars such as Nudie’s, Second Fiddle, Robert’s, and The Bootlegger’s Inn typically have bands playing from 10am until 3am.
By night, this strip becomes a dazzling confection of old-school neon signs — and entrance to every venue is free, with punters encouraged to place their money in the tip jar that circulates after each performance. Bar-hopping the entire four-block stretch would have required more stamina than I possess, but would be, I think, well worth the effort.
Other, less rowdy, options exist for the enjoyment of live music in the city. Established in 2006, The Listening Room ( listeningroomcafe.com) has been in its current location since 2017 and is based simply on the idea that good music deserves to be heard without competing with the hubbub of revellers.
Singer/songwriters play acoustically, sharing the inspiration for their songs with the audience, creating an atmosphere of storytelling and true musicianship, accompanied by southern comfort food and a solid drinks menu.
A similar, music-first attitude prevails at The Station Inn ( stationinn.com) where bluegrass is played in an intimate setting, seven nights a week. There’s even a free bluegrass jam, which allows those with any skill, on any bluegrass instrument, to ‘pick’ in a circle with other musicians.
To put Nashville’s musical importance into perspective, I set aside a good few hours to browse the exhibits at the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum ( countrymusichalloffame.org) which tells the story of country music from its simple, folky roots to the glitz and glamour with which it is associated today.
I was as drawn, magpie-like, to Elvis Presley’s 1960 gold Cadillac (its colour and size alone make it unmissable) as I was to the walls that gleam with gold records.
Stepping into the Rotunda, where the artists who have been inducted into the Country Music Hall of Fame are celebrated, felt almost like stepping into church, such was the atmosphere of reverence.
Elsewhere, the guitars of musicians such as Hank Williams and Tom Petty are on display, as well as costumes worn by stars from Patsy Cline to Hank Thompson, and from Taylor Swift to Dolly Parton.
I’m only annoyed that I hadn’t timed my visit for between now and September, as this is when a special exhibition, Journey of a Seeker, dedicated to the Jolene singer and country music legend, will be on show.
Tours to historic RCA Studio B leave from the foyer several times a day and, on the short bus ride, our guide provided colourful background notes.
Known as The Home of 1,000 Hits, Studio B was Elvis’s favourite recording studio, where he made around 240 songs. Of course I took my seat at the piano where he liked to warm up his voice, and stood on the floor’s blue cross, which marks the acoustic ‘sweet spot’ for recording vocals.
Once delivered back to the museum, I headed to its Rep John Lewis Way entrance for a visit to Hatch Show Print ( hatchshowprint.com).
In Nashville since 1879, this operation’s lively, distinctive block print style has heralded countless events in the city and beyond, and visitors to the workshop can book a tour to get up close with the vintage equipment or, as I did, simply watch the designer-printers at work on a range of posters, the likes of which can be purchased in the adjacent gift shop.
Hatch Show Print has, of course, designed many posters for the Grand Ole Opry over the years and, as you might have guessed, no visit to Nashville would be complete without a night at this Nashvillean stalwart, especially in this, its 100th year.
Taking my seat in the auditorium was a thrill enough, even before the performers — there are never any fewer than eight in a show, combining a mix of Opry members (established, inducted artists) and burgeoning talent — took to the stage, which comprises a circle of oak, cut from the show’s previous Ryman home.
On a tour, there’s not only the chance to stand on the famed circle yourself, but also to see the backstage dressing rooms and the Opry Mailboxes, to which fans can send letters to inducted artists.
Keith Urban had a few piling up, so I was hopeful that he might swing by during my visit, but no such luck.
Locals told me that he and wife Nicole Kidman are regular, low-key fixtures around town, and that no one bothers them; I’m not sure that I would have been so cool and collected (although… Kidman and I went to the same high school in Australia, so I would have had some kind of conversation opener).
And speaking of stars, it is almost impossible to be this close to Memphis, and so surrounded by reminders of the King of Rock ’n’ Roll’s career, without taking a trip south-west to visit the performer’s legendary home, Graceland.
Currently, there’s a special exhibition running until the end of 2025 to commemorate what would have been Presley’s 90th birthday year.
It features 90 curated stories told through an immense collection of Graceland artefacts, including never seen before personal effects, such as an engraved nunchuck and a poem dedicated to Elvis’ daughter Lisa Marie.
The best way to get there? On a day tour with Grayline ( graylinetn.com) which leaves from Nashville at 7am and takes in Sun Studios and Beale Street as well as granting VIP access to Graceland.
The experience of being immersed in Elvis’ colourful life makes standing in the Garden of Meditation, where he is buried alongside his parents, grandmother, daughter, and grandson, incredibly poignant. I can’t deny having welled up.
After seeing so many extravagant jumpsuits on display, how could I resist a spot of Nashville shopping?
Hip stores abounded, from Garage Sale Vintage to Boot Barn, but my favourite was undoubtedly Any Old Iron which screamed ‘star quality’ in everything from its cheeky slogan tees to its razzle-dazzle suits.
No wonder its creations have been worn by the likes of Taylor Swift, Lady Gaga, and Elton John. “Stay sparkly!” called the store attendant to me, as I left. Heading back down to the bright lights of Honky Tonk Highway, it was hard to feel anything but.
- Sarah was a guest of Nashville Convention and Visitors Corp and Tennessee Department of Tourism
- Aer Lingus operates four direct flights per week from Dublin to Nashville. One-way fares from €299.99 each way, including taxes and charges. aerlingus.com
- Learn more about Nashville at visitmusiccity.com
- Learn about holidaying in Tennessee at tnvacation.com
There’s a dizzying array of food options available in Nashville, and the portion sizes are no less impressive. My advice? Come hungry, and pace yourself. Nashville is all about the energy, so this is no place for a food coma.
- Bringing more than 30 eateries together under the one roof, there’s everything from salads and sushi, to pizza and Pho available in this food hall setting - and, this being Nashville, there’s also barbecue and live performance stages.
- Come for the epic views of the Nashville skyline, stay for the fantastic cocktails and Asian-inspired small plates.
- Fine dining in the former home of a 19th century Nashville mayor, with an emphasis on reinventing Southern classics and locally sourced ingredients.
- A well-loved institution in the lively Gulch neighbourhood, serving up ‘breakfast for good.’ Think hearty grits bowls, biscuit sandwiches, donuts and brunch classics, alongside coffees, juices and cocktails.
- A truly sensational restaurant in the Gulch. Expect coastal-inspired Italian dishes, created by chef/ restaurateur Anthony Scotto and served by some of the city’s best waitstaff.
- The all-day line snaking around the building says it all: locals and tourists alike can’t get enough of this 23-variety strong pancake menu, as well as the waffles, ham and eggs.
- With multiple locations in Music City, Edley’s has been voted best barbecue in Nashville for four years straight. Meats are smoked daily and the barbecue pork is perfection. Load up with a couple of sides and wash it all down with a Bloody Mary.
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