I was sniffy about visiting Dubai — this is how a recent trip proved me wrong

Rosaleen McMeel visits Dubai and finds a city that challenges everything she thought she knew about it

I'm glad I queued for the Dubai Frame

I have long been sniffy about visiting Dubai. I’d associated it with over-consumerism and gaudy displays of wealth, a scene I can’t relate to. A bit like the viral Dubai chocolate that is springing up in every discount supermarket around Ireland, my perception of the city was that it was overrated. Call me stubborn (and many have) but I have a tendency to avoid things other people insist you should like. It’s why I’ve never watched an episode of Game of Thrones or have yet to purchase an air fryer.

The other thing you should know about me is that I’m not afraid to be proven wrong.

So when I had the opportunity to explore the city through the guise of a ‘luxury for less’ lens, I packed my bags quicker than you can say “Knafeh”.

Aura SkyPool has the world’s highest 360- degree infinity pool

After a seven-hour direct flight from Dublin on Emirates, I landed in Dubai in the early hours of the morning and travelled straight to my hotel, Mama Shelter — a relatively new addition to the already impressive roster of hotels the city boasts.

Unlike the palatial accommodation serving the popular Palm Jumeirah and Dubai Marina areas, Mama Shelter is a fraction of the price with nightly stays at just under €60.

Nestled between the skyscrapers of Dubai’s modern Business Bay district, Mama Shelter offers an eclectic flourish around every corner. Colourful neon lighting at the entrance lets you know you’ve arrived. Consider it both a literal and figurative sign telling you this hotel is anything but average. 

Despite the reasonable rates, it doesn’t scrimp on style or extras. The beds were truly comfortable, and the hotel robe was one of only two I’ve ever considered buying — the other being from Ashford Castle.

The hotel robe at Mama Shelter, Dubai was one of only two I’ve ever considered buying

From its origins as a modest fishing and pearl-diving village, Dubai has transformed into one of the world’s most iconic modern cities — a hub of innovation, luxury, and ambition. Fuelled by oil wealth in the 20th century and later by a bold diversification into tourism, finance, technology and real estate, the city has redefined what’s possible in the desert.

While Dubai’s rapid rise is awe-inspiring, it has also sparked global conversations about the balance between progress and the lived realities of those who help build it — a dynamic that remains part of its complex, evolving story.

Over a long weekend, we explore a mix of Dubai’s iconic landmarks and lesser-known gems, all while marvelling at the city’s pick-and-mix skyline — an architectural patchwork that pictures simply can’t do justice to. Alongside iconic skyscrapers like the Burj Khalifa are intricate Islamic designs and cultural elements, like wind towers and geometric patterns.

A sunset cruise setting off from Dubai Marina is a brilliant way to get my bearings. Sure, the super-rich might have their own yachts — but where’s the fun in that? We join a shared cruise with Xclusive Yacht Rental, complete with an onboard barbecue, photo ops, and a relaxed mix of couples, families, and friends. 

Xclusive Yachts do sunset cruises in Dubai

As we sail past the Marina and towards The Palm, the scale of the city comes into focus. Then the sun dipped, the skyline lit up, and Dubai revealed yet more of the reasons visitors can’t stay away.

Although our hotel hosts not one, but four pools (plus a semi-submerged bar, but I don’t like to brag), everyone knows beach clubs make for better people watching. We take a trip to Kaimana Beach, the newest addition to Dubai’s popular J1 Beach. 

Unfortunately, the sea is an off-putting brown hue (blamed on algae) the day we visit, but the inviting pool and exceptional service more than make up for it. 

We also have the pleasure of sampling the fare chef Michael Collantes and his team had created over lunch in the shade. Think Hawaiian traditional dishes reimagined with a modern twist. It’s safe to say I would return for the truffle corn ribs alone.

Dubai's culinary scene, in general, is a vibrant mix of diverse international cuisine and traditional Emirati dishes, meaning even picky eaters will find something wonderful to enjoy. With almost 1,200 new restaurant licences issued last year, it has long earned it stripes as a culinary hotspot, appealing to food enthusiasts, gourmet travellers and industry innovators.

The Michelin Guide is no stranger here either, and in 2024, there were 19 restaurants with a star rating. We are lucky to visit Michelin Green Star restaurant Lowe, a trendy spot with a pared-back style and a sustainable ethos, including a commitment to nose-to-tail dining. The open kitchen features a wood oven, a grill and a rotisserie, which play a key role in many of the global dishes. 

I enjoy local oysters with onion and shiso granita to start, followed by the Lowe Wagyu triple cheeseburger with chipotle, onion rings, mustard, and pickles. Let me just say that if there’s a better burger in the world, I’ve yet to try it.

Perfume making at Oo La Lab

On Saturday morning, we waft towards a fragrance workshop at Oo La Lab. We aren’t quite sure how this will go down with the two men in our group, but it turns out to be a nice little icebreaker. With oud scenting so many of the spaces we visit on our trip, getting to craft our own blend feels like a fitting — and fragrant — souvenir.

Another morning, we wake early for breakfast at Aura Skypool. Featuring the world’s highest 360- degree infinity pool, perched 200 metres above the city, it delivers the kind of panoramic views that stop you mid-sentence. The time-slotted visits and Instagram-snapping crowd isn’t really my thing, but I can certainly appreciate the appeal.

DTCM at Alserkal Avenue

For a change of pace, we seek out more culture. Tucked away in a former industrial district, Alserkal Avenue is where Dubai swaps its gloss for a little grit, offering a free-to-enter open-air arts hub that feels refreshingly off the beaten path. 

It’s the kind of place where galleries spill into courtyards, coffee shops double as creative studios, and every corner invites you to linger a little longer.

Initially, I am unenthused about a trip to the Dubai Frame, the UAE’s latest cultural landmark because of its ‘touristy’ nature, but dutifully queue with everyone else to gain entry to the iconic structure. 

I’m glad I do, as I am rewarded with incredible views of old and new Dubai, and a perspective of the connections between the emirate’s rich past and dazzling present. Taking those contrasts in from the bridge at the top is an unexpected highlight.

An evening heritage safari to Al Marmoom Oasis

The real icing on this unexpected feast, however, is an evening heritage safari to Al Marmoom Oasis. From hotel pickup to a dusty starlit drop-off, this desert adventure packs a little bit of everything into one unforgettable evening. 

We ride through golden dunes in an open top jeep and dine under the stars on a six-course Bedouin feast. With falcons soaring, horses galloping, camels parading, and fire dancers lighting up the night, the entertainment is as rich as the setting. 

Add in stargazing, henna painting, and genuine hospitality, it feels like a perfectly curated taster of everything the desert has to offer.

Stargazing and skyscrapers aside, the real surprise for me is the sheer positivity of everyone I meet. From waiters and guides to bathroom attendants and restaurant owners, there is a shared sense of optimism about the city’s future — and a genuine warmth toward visitors. 

In a world that feels particularly unstable right now, that kind of energy is unexpectedly uplifting.

Escape notes

Rosaleen stayed in Mama Shelter Dubai, where a medium Mama room costs AED 239 (€58) per night. mamashelter.com/dubai

The 20ml EDP fragrance design and mixology group workshop at Oo La Lab is AED 407 (€98) per person. uk.oola-lab.com/collections/dubai-workshops

The luxury yacht shared tour with a barbecue costs AED 210 (€50) per adult and AED 160 (€38) per child. hxclusiveyachts.com/yacht-share-tours-dubai

A pool lounger at Kaimana Beach costs AED 250 (€60) per day, while sunbeds by the beach are AED 300 (€72) per day. Both costs are fully redeemable against Kaimana Beach food and drink.
kaimanabeach.ae

Dubai Frame’s adult tickets cost AED 50 (€12) and children’s cost AED 20 (€5). dubaiframe.ae/en

Breakfast at Aura is AED 95 (€23) per person. auraskypool.com

Entry to Alserkal Avenue is free and most art exhibitions are also free. alserkal.online

The evening Heritage Safari at Al Marmoom Oasis is AED 694 (€167) per person, and includes a hotel pickup and drop-off. oceanairtravels.com/experience/dubai/evening-heritage-safari-by-vintage-gclass-and-almarmoom-bedouin-experience

See visitdubai.com, the official Visit Dubai website to plan your stay and access more information on the city.

Rosaleen was a guest of Visit Dubai