Seeking adventure? Here's why Peru is the place for you
Machu Picchu, Aguas Calientes, Peru
I’m 4,000 meters above sea level in the thick of Peru’s highlands, surrounded by brown peaks and fluffy white clouds that almost feel close enough to touch.
As I savour my last cup of coca tea, I look out to the mountains that I will soon be hiking and wonder, will I make it?
I have never hiked before, but I’m about to take on a trek along Peru’s Sacred Valley to the 15th-century archaeological site of Huchuy Qosqo. I am part of the first G Adventures group to complete this route.
Already, the altitude in Cusco — where I begin my journey — proved to be testing. Simply walking and talking on day one in the bustling city is a challenge, though the three flights (Dublin-Amsterdam-Lima-Cusco) may also have contributed to me feeling fatigued.
At a height of 3,400 meters, Cusco was once the capital of the Inca Empire. Etched into the mountains surrounding the city are the words “Viva el Peru”.
In the centre, tucked away beside the impressive Cusco Cathedral, is what claims to be the highest 100% Irish-owned pub on the planet. Never too far from home, I think.
Surrounded by amazing buildings and decorated with flowers, the city's main square makes for the perfect spot to catch my breath. But I don’t have too long to acclimatise. The cobbled streets of Cusco are just the beginning of my Peruvian adventure.
From the city, it’s an hour or so of winding roads as my group and I head deep into Peru’s Sacred Valley.
We are on the way to the Ccaccaccollo Women's Weaving Co-op to learn more about G Adventures and its non-profit partner, Planeterra’s community tourism projects.
Founded by local woman and trailblazer Francisca Qquerar Mayta, the Women's Weaving Co-op is bursting at the seams with personality.
We are greeted by men, women, and children in traditional colourful clothes singing and dancing. They take some of us by the hand, persuading us to join in before welcoming each one of us into their community with a warm hug and a friendly smile.
While we learn about their unique weaving process using llama and alpaca wool, we are surrounded by women at work.
Some are sitting at wooden looms, weaving bold shades of red, yellow, green and purple while others are sitting in a circle, working on their lap, some with babies on their backs.
It’s hard to imagine that this beautiful part of the Peruvian Andes was previously bypassed by tourists.
When G Adventures first came to the Sacred Valley in 2003 there was “zero tourism” according to founder Bruce Poon Tip.
“This area was just driven through by hundreds of thousands of passengers every year going to Machu Picchu and there was no benefit to tourism with this community at all,” he says.
This small Quechua-speaking community is one of G Adventures’ “G for Good” projects we stop at along our journey to Huchuy Qosqo.
Like others, this community maintains a traditional way of life but was faced with a challenge when younger generations were being drawn to the city for work.
Through the Ccaccaccollo Womens Weaving Co-op, this tight-knit community can make the most of more economic opportunities while helping to keep its tradition alive by showcasing it to tourists like us.
While Peru is famed for the Inca Trail, our next adventure sees us embark on a different trek that engages the smaller communities that live around it.
The 16km hike kicks off in the village of Patabamba, about 40 minutes outside of Cusco. The route takes us through the breathtaking Andean mountains, over rope bridges, up to heights of over 4,000 meters, and finally, to Huchuy Qosqo (meaning “little Cusco”).
Believed to have been built in the 15th century, the archaeological site is positioned at 3,650 meters, overlooking the Sacred Valley. It is assumed to have been established by Inca Emperor Viracocha, the father of Pachacuteq, who is believed to have built Machu Picchu.
The route will soon be available through G Adventures but for now, we are the guinea pigs.
For most of the journey, we are surrounded by a sea of mountain peaks — some of which are snowcapped.
As the Urubamba River runs through towns and villages below, the clouds above us shelter some parts of the Andes, creating light and shade that makes it look as if the scene before us was painted by a very gifted artist. At numerous points, we comment on how the views simply do not look real.
Despite the epic sights, the last couple of kilometres are testing. My legs are starting to tire from an uphill stretch and my breathing is getting heavier, but our G Adventures ‘Inca Warrior’ Edwar Pacheco knows how to motivate us.
We’re close to beating their record, he says. It is only afterwards that I remember we are the first group to do this route.
But it doesn’t matter. Edwar gets the first group of us to the top in what we are led to believe is Olympic-athlete-level time.
Sweating and out of breath, I look at a small but steep hill beside us. “Thank God we didn’t have to go up that too,” I say.
We notice a couple on top of the hill. The woman is holding a small child and Edwar explains that they have likely travelled some distance to check on their crops.
A couple of minutes later, the woman runs down the hill smiling, baby in arms. Meanwhile, I am still catching my breath, gulping down my water.
Nonetheless, I feel almost euphoric having completed the toughest part of the hike and thankfully, it is mostly downhill to our resting spot for the night.
When we arrive, our tents are already set up on a flat green plain, overlooking a spectacular view of the mountains.
To the left — just meters from our tents — is Huchuy Qosqo. To the right, head chef Emerson Huaman and his crew are preparing a spectacular meal. Yes, you read that right.
We may be in the middle of the Andes, but we are about to tuck into a gourmet feast.
I imagined we would be eating out of tins like they do in but this is more like .
Three courses are served on ceramic plates with impeccable presentation. From pumpkin soup to quinoa and alpaca steak, the team focuses on traditional Peruvian cuisine.
After a well-deserved rest and an equally delicious breakfast, it is a downhill hike before we celebrate the completion of our trek with a feast at another “G for Good” project, the community-run Parwa Restaurant — and another dance party.
Having completed my first hike, it was only right to tick off another bucket list item in Peru.
We arrive in Aguas Calientes via a train ride that provides enchanting views of both jungle and mountain. The town is surrounded by greenery with the train running right through its centre.
Tourists hang out of windows and doors of shops and restaurants, waiting to capture the moment it whizzes past, just a couple of feet — and sometimes inches — from their cameras.
However, the many travellers that flock to this town are not here to see the train.
American explorer Hiram Bingham took the first ever photo of Machu Picchu in 1911 and according to his diary, the site took his breath away. Over 110 years later, as one of the Seven Wonders of the World, it has the same impact.
While the 15th-century site of ancient Incan ruins was as spectacular as expected, I realise I had not missed the busyness of being at a popular tourist destination.
Up until now, our trip immersed us in local culture with communities who welcomed us with open arms.
We felt far away from the typical tourist spots, particularly with locals such as our Inca Warrior, Edwar leading the way.
As Bruce Poon Tip puts it, G Adventures is all about “cultural exchange and cultural immersion”.
As for the destination, from the people to the food and spectacular sights, Peru has everything an adventurer could desire. It is the perfect place to get lost in culture and discover something new about yourself in the process. For me, it was a newfound love for hiking.
The community of Cuyo Chico offers a unique experience in Peru’s Sacred Valley.
12 families in this community came together to revitalise their customs and traditions — and in particular, their reputation for creating beautiful handmade ceramics — by establishing a local enterprise called Tinkuy.
This is the newest G for Good project and provides travellers with the chance to learn about the history of the community while having a bit of fun too, whether making your own empanadas to learning about the ceramics process and decorating your own souvenir.
A Cuyo Chico Pottery Making Demonstration is available through various G Adventures itineraries.
At the World's 50 Best Restaurants ceremony this year four of the top 50 were in Lima — more than any other city in the world.
Central in Lima took the number one spot on the prestigious list, becoming the first South American restaurant to do so.
However, it’s safe to say this culinary excellence has swept beyond the capital.
In Cusco, local restaurant Nuna Raymi provides a delicious Peruvian feast including traditional dishes such as trout, alpaca, quinoa, lots of fresh vegetables, and of course, great Pisco Sours.
The restaurant prides itself on using organic foods such as native potatoes and corn.
In the Sacred Valley, the standard continues. Parwa Community Restaurant in Huchuy Qosqo welcomes 1,500 travellers per month — and for good reason.
Favouring ingredients from local farmers, all income earned is used for social projects for the community.
While the Huchuy Qosqo trek is coming soon to G Adventures, there are other itineraries available that feature some of the G for Good Projects we visited.
- 9-day Inca Discovery Plus Lima to Lima group trip visiting Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail, from €1,224
- 8-day Machu Picchu Adventure Lima to Lima group trip from €979
The central Los Portales Hotel in Cusco is a short walk to the city's main square and its main attractions.
In the Sacred Valley, Hotel La Casona de Yucay provides stunning views of the Andes from its well-maintained gardens as well as spacious rooms.
The modern Casa Andina Standard in Aguas Calientes/Machu Picchu is another central location that makes for a comfortable and convenient base when exploring Machu Picchu.
- Learn more about Peru at https://www.peru.travel/es
- Maeve was a guest with G Adventures as part of the inaugural GX summit in Peru; https://www.gadventures.com/.
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