Snow place like it: Taking to the slopes of Switzerland's 4 Vallées skiing area

While it seemed daunting at first, Martha Brennan embraced the slopes on a recent ski trip to Switzerland

The incredible view from Mont Fort.

It’s not easy being Irish. Especially, being an Irish person on snow; a site so rare for many of us it seems to go against the very grain of our umbrella-covered DNA. Indeed, nothing screams “winter tourist” more than a pale, suncream-lathered Irish person tumbling down a Swiss mountain with blades on their feet.

And this is exactly where I found myself on a recent visit to the 4 Vallées ski area, where I experienced one of the most breathtaking holidays I have ever been on.

When I first embarked on the Nendaz-Veysonnaz Ski Safari, I was apprehensive at best. I had only ever skied a few times prior and, needless to say, I was not a natural. Switzerland’s largest ski area, and all the professionals it attracts, was a little bit daunting. However, all of that faded the second our bus rolled up the winding hills to Haute-Nendaz, a small, welcoming, resort town nestled at the bottom of the Alps. The trip couldn’t have been easier, with Swiss Air operating direct flights from Dublin to Geneva and trains to the nearby Sion operating like clockwork.

The Swiss Travel Pass also offers unlimited public transportation via train, bus, or boat for your stay. And any hassle one might have with changes would soon be forgotten once the panoramic views soaked in.

The group taking to the slopes on day one.

Like home

The 4 Vallées are located in the Valais region and comprise six resorts: Nendaz, Veysonnaz, Thyon, Bruson, La Tzoumaz, and Verbier. While each brings something different, together they allow even the most experienced skier to explore over 400km of runs and freeride routes.

We began our journey in Nendaz, where we started by checking into the impressive Hotel Nendaz 4 Vallées and Spa. The first thing I noticed upon walking into the four-star hotel was the smell of the wood-burning fire by the entrance and I immediately felt at home. The rooms were not only large, but very well equipped, with a king-size bed, separate shower and bath, television, and stocked mini bar. The most impressive part, of course, was the private balcony, where I was welcomed to an undisturbed view of the snow-capped Rhône Valley.

The real highlight was the resort’s two-storey spa, particularly its thermal indoor to outdoor swimming pool. As well as multiple saunas and steam rooms, the spa also boasts a salt pool, ice room, and relaxation room overlooking the mountains.

The hotel’s restaurant offers a lengthy menu with many different options, including fresh seafood, pastas, and local cheeses. Valais is known for its rich agricultural landscape, with a vast number of farms and sprawling vineyards covering the region.

The latter was surprising to learn about. Having not been to Switzerland since I was child, I was unaware of the scale of the country’s wine production. Over 100m litres are produced every year and one third of Switzerland’s vineyards are in Valais. Fendant, a white chasselas, is a favourite amongst locals. It’s even available on the slopes, which called early the next morning.

Even locals like Frederique stop to take in the views

Ski school

Getting there couldn’t have been easier. Our rental gear was waiting in the nearby Neige Adventure, which has multiple locations across the 4 Vallées to make drop-off easier, and the gondola was located directly across from the hotel. My apprehension turned to excitement as we ascended and any remainder was quickly cleared by our lovely guide, Frédérique.

Having only traveled with advanced skiers prior, I had forgotten that beginners can range in any age. And these people know how to teach.

There are Swiss Ski School locations across the entire 4 Vallées and even if you haven’t paid for a lesson — which go for about €100 per hour — any teacher in their easy-to-spot red suits would be more than willing to help point you in the right direction should you get lost or are unsure about a run.

Although there had been minimal snowfall this season, nearly all of the pistes are covered by snow cannons, meaning that just one run was closed in the entire area. Around 33% of the runs in the 4 Vallées are easy blue runs, so you won’t get left behind if you’re not ready for the harder red slopes, which cover 53% of the slopes.

Likewise, there are many challenging red and black slopes and one of the major perks of the 4 Vallees is the ability to ski between the resorts. So, those who stay in the western areas of Nendaz and Veysonnaz can easily ski across to the better-known, and more expensive, area of Verbier and vice versa.

A sunset on a beautiful snowshoe hike the group took.

The foodie scene

Even as a beginner, I was able to explore many parts of the mountain and meet my group for a lovely lunch. Here, we sampled rosti, a local dish that is every Irish person’s dream meal: Potatoes, cheese, and pretty much anything you want mixed in.

We could be in stiff competition with the Swiss when it comes to cheese production, which we learned on a beautiful snowshoe hike later that evening. We were led through the trail by Stefano, a knowledgeable local guide.

We stopped off and had a wholesome meal of local meats, fendent wine, homemade tea, and creamy raclette cheese, which was melted over an open fire. We even got to sample Stefano’s homemade genepi, a poitin-type spirit with much fresher taste. We finished off our walk under starlight, with our torches turned off, our stomachs full, and nothing but nature to listen to. It was a highlight of the trip.

This was until we travelled 3,330m above sea level the next day to Mont Fort — the highest point in the 4 Vallées and home to one of the steepest slopes in the Alps — so steep, in fact, it can’t be groomed.

From the viewpoint, you can bask in the awe of Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and other distinctive peaks. Adventure seekers can even zipline from the top. After soaking it all in, I happily got the gondola back down and graduated to the red slopes with the help of our excellent guide, Donovan.

The view from Veysonnaz

Veysonnaz

The following day, we rounded out our trip by skiing across to Veysonnaz while our luggage made its way to the Hotel Chalet Royal by transfer. The ski area of Thyon proved to be the most beginner-friendly, with a web of family-friendly routes ranging in difficulty.

It was easy to spend a full day exploring the area, even as a beginner, without getting bored. For the more advanced, there’s a World Championship run to bring you down into the charming village.

Veysonnaz is much smaller than Nendaz and Verbier, but its old architecture is picture perfect, and sunshine is guaranteed 300 days of the year. Like the Hotel Nendaz 4 Vallées and Spa, the Hotel Royal Chalet is located directly opposite the gondola to the mountain. The three-star hotel had a very enjoyable buffet-style dinner and breakfast available in its restaurant and an outdoor hot tub for recovery.

From here, I yet again found myself sitting on a balcony overlooking a view so pristine it almost seemed fake. This time, with better skills, more bruises, a new wine addiction and an ultimate feeling of relaxation.

I still could have done with more suncream though.

• Two nights in a double room with all-access Skisafari lift pass and luggage transfer for two people: CHF 655/€650.
• Flights from Dublin to Geneva with Aer Lingus from €98.
• See www.myswitzerland.com