Review: a winter’s stay at Ballymaloe House

Tom Breathnach heads to East Cork to sample the hospitality on offer at Ballymaloe House

Sat, 24 Dec, 2022 - 02:00

Tom Breathnach

First Impressions

Even as an East Cork native who regularly whips along the backroads of Shanagarry, the sight of Ballymaloe House never fails to wow. I guess it’s unusual for a country house. The property isn’t shrouded by a guarding of trees nor sequestered behind a towering estate wall but rather it’s a landmark sight for all that pass it and buttresses arguably the finest swathes of the countryside surrounding Ballycotton Bay.

A winter visit here almost adds an extra dusting of allure and as soon as I’m parked up and enter Ballymaloe House’s lobby, I get the sense that that the property has spruced up since my last visit (for a simple voucher haul). The former meshed glass front door (which always reminded me of entering Midleton hospital) has been ditched for a much more inviting clear pane panel, simply seasoned with a Christmas wreath, while the furnishings inside feel a little fresher than I recall, too. Receptionist Lia seems genuinely delighted to welcome me (and other guests) as does reservations manager Daphne who guides me upstairs to the room via its storied hallways.

Suite Talk

I was hitting the eiderdown in The Mallard Room; a newly created room set in the Allen Flat, the one-time residence of Myrtle and Ivan Allen. It’s a spacious “classic house” room with junior suite proportions and a stylish rustic theme embellished by colourful pops of waterfowl prints. The centrepiece king bed with pheasant embossed headboard is flanked by antique bedside tables, topped with filtered water and a pricey Bang & Olufsen Bluetooth speaker adding a techy design touch.

Elsewhere, there’s a divan sofa plump with cushions, a huge mahogany wardrobe stocked with fluffy robes, a marble-top workstation and… peeping down outside… Ballymaloe garden views. My ensuite is a modern, all-white affair, almost to the point of lacking a little character but it feels swishly new and does come loaded with Irish Voya products as well as handmade Ballymaloe lavender soap. In all, it’s a gorgeous bedroom and a dreamy habitat for a nature lover like myself. Like in many Irish country houses, it’s worth noting that there are no TVs or tea/coffee-making facilities at Ballymaloe. I’ll gladly relinquish the telly but I do personally love the ritual of brewing my own fresh coffee, particularly first thing in the morning, without the rigmarole of room service or pocket-searching for a tip. Ballymaloe does, however, invite guests for complimentary tea and cake on arrival which all adds to the ceremony of a country house stay. I enjoyed a delicious lemon drizzle cake by the drawing room fireside along with a blend of Earl Grey and breakfast tea which was, dare I say, Barry’s level tasty.

Complimentary tea and coffee on arrival is a nice touch.

Food & Drink

Staying at Ballymaloe House is one experience but dining here, which is where it all began for the property, is arguably the ultimate draw to the property. My reservation was for after seven but I kicked off proceedings a little earlier in the drawing room where I enjoyed a pre-dinner tequila cocktail, “garden to glass”. Soon, Fern Allen came to take my order in traditional country house fashion before ushering me to the original dining salon where Myrtle Allen first served her guests back in 1964. Ballymaloe’s five-course menu was the evening’s offering and my first course was a ruby beetroot soup, tasty but perhaps the most pedestrian dish of the night. Next was “mini fish and chips”; a breaded hunk of haddock served with grated fries and a zingy buttermilk tartar sauce followed by main of knock-out black sole served with marjoram salsa verde and melt-in-your-mouth braised fennel. I don’t have a particularly sweet tooth so the novelty of Ballymaloe’s famous dessert trolley rolling up to my table is a little lost on me. I’m soon converted, however, when I learn that all items are gluten-free and so I tuck into a taster of each; a raspberry fool, poached pears, ice cream along with festive favourites such as a mince pie with whiskey cream, a yule log and mandarins.

There was also a modest cheese course and tea with petit fours that finished a dining experience, which beyond quite a wonky dining table, was superb.

Breakfast the next morning was just as flavourful. It starts off with a colourful buffet in the conservatory stocked with fresh breads, fruits and a cauldron of oats. Knowing that Ballymaloe’s fish famously comes straight from Ballycotton, I opted for the pollock for my hot course which was outstanding, particularly with that gorgeous herb butter. Together with gluten-free seed bread, a scone, some of the best jams and yoghurts, it was a delightful start to the day, especially paired with a spectacular Ballymaloe sunrise.

Food is the ultimate draw to Ballymaloe House.

Room to Improve

Ballymaloe’s operations are a well-organically-oiled operation. There were a couple of aspects, however, which teetered on the negative. While I was delighted with my own base, I got a peek of some of the property’s other rooms where décor and furnishings offered a bit too jaded an aesthetic for my taste. I understand that at least three rooms are gutted and given the reno treatment every year… so hopefully 2023 may be the year for some of those with a more twee touch.

Pricewise, that €95 for that five-course dinner is going to be a treat for most budgets. A couple of people commented to me this week that following their visits they found portions quite meagre at Ballymaloe House. While I was personally well-sated it’s worth noting that Ballymaloe do offer second helpings.

Admittedly, portion offerings are a tricky one for a property to balance at the risk of turning one of Ireland’s most eminent restaurants into an all-you-can-eat corral, but I guess my advice is if you still feel a little peckish at Ballymaloe, don’t be shy to pipe up.

Check out?

My stay at Ballymaloe was a wonderfully warm and delicious experience and with its national, if not international notoriety, it does elevate it to a “bucket-list” escape. At times, the aura of such an acclaimed property can almost consume the experience itself but once I sunk into the surroundings, I soon felt quite at home and the staff here are wonderful. At a time when rates are spiralling, I find stays from €250 quite reasonable for a national icon but feel my own room category, from €310, would be worth the splurge.