Why Portugal’s Madeira Island is perfect for every holidaymaker

Mon, 08 Aug, 2022 - 12:55

Annmarie O’Connor

Portugal's Madeira Island lays claim to hefty bragging rights. Dubbed the “Pearl of the Atlantic”, its location between Africa and Europe ensures a year-round mild and subtropical climate, securing the archipelago’s peerless reputation. Lush volcanic landscape, commanding views and a cultural heritage dating back to the 15th century make it a must for visitors with varied tastes. Whether sampling gastronomic goodies, wondering at waterfalls, or trekking in the ancient rainforests, consider your bucket list ticked. Adventure awaits everyone; it’s now a matter of deciding what yours looks like.

Depending on your risk appetite, there are five ways to explore Madeira: By foot, 4x4 jeep, cable car, boat, or toboggan (more on that later). If, like me, a good time starts with your taste buds, then don your comfiest shoes and prepare for an epicurean jaunt in the capital Funchal.

Guided food and wine tours, like those offered by Discovering Madeira, are a delicious way to enjoy local dishes with a local guide. Expect small group walks around the Old Town’s haunts with nine stops, 11 food tastings, and six drinks. Pro-user tip: Wear loose clothing. Start with a sampling of Madeira wine at The Old Blandy Wine Lodge — a family-run winery set in a 16th-century Franciscan monastery. Next, try garlic-marinated pork and rustic bolo de cacao (sweet potato bread) with regional beer. Compare that with modern fusion tapas like black scabbard and passion fruit crostini paired with a Verdelho wine.

Bolo do Caco Gastronumia Picture: Francisco Correia

Wait, there’s more.After strolling through the eye-catching “Painted Doors Project” of Rua de Santa Maria, stop for a famous Poncha (fresh citrus juice, honey, and rum) served with lupin beans before exploring the equally colourful Mercado Dos Lavadores farmer’s market.

In a bustling art déco building, here you can find emblematic flowers like the bird of paradise, spices, fish, and exotic fruits like maça (custard apple) and the pineapple-shaped monstera deliciosa (fruit salad plant). Be advised – prices are high. Soak up the atmosphere, not the sales pitch.

Got a sweet tooth? Look forward to artisanal chocolatier goodies and traditional sugar cane cookies from the lauded Fabrica di Santo Antonio bakery. If you have room (or a spare stomach), indulge in a queijadas (cottage cheese tart) or Bolo de Mel (ginger and molasses cake) from one of the confeitarias and thank me later.

In the meantime, let’s switch gears and check out the island’s celebrated natural reserves. Popular for hiking, trail running, mountain biking, and canyoning, the most famous are the levada (aqueduct) walks. First built by the settlers to carry water to inaccessible farmland, these 200-strong open-air irrigation canals wind through the most picturesque parts of the territory including Madeira’s indigenous and prehistoric Laurisilva forest — a 15,000-hectare UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site composed of Lauraceae trees. Occupying approximately 20% of the island, the sweet smell of laurel and bay among the moss and lichen-clad tree trunks makes this a magical spot.

Levada Nova da Pta do Sol Picture: Francisco Correia

Given the island’s sharp cliff drops and steep, curving roads, a certified 4x4 guided jeep tour is a smart way to travel. Madeira Adventure Kingdom and Bravelanders both provide safe outdoor experiences tailor-made to your ability, especially for hikers. An easy rule of thumb, you’ll find challenging trails in the central mountains and to the north, with an easier pace in the south. Seasoned walkers will love the sunrise and sunset over Pico Ruivo — Madeira’s highest peak at 1,862m. For beginners, recommended footpaths are signposted as PR — routes less than 30km long. PR6/6.1 — the Risco and 25 Fontes waterfall walk is a breath-taking #nofilter moment. Don’t miss it. PR11 — a 1.5km trail ending at Balcões viewpoint, overlooking Ribeira da Metade valley, will appeal to wildlife lovers with its gaggle of Madeiran Chaffinch and Firecrest birds, happy to land on an outstretched hand. Scenery buffs will love the viewing points, like those over Nun’s Valley (a small village in the crater of an extinct volcano) or standing above the clouds at the popular Pico do Areeiro (1,818m); pure gold.

Fancy something fancy? Why not take a 15-minute cable car ride from Funchal to Monte Palace Tropical Gardens? Set in a hilltop village 550m above sea level, the 18th-century palace grounds host a bricolage of endemic and exotic flora and fauna. South African cycads (one of the largest collections in the world), hydrangeas and proteas, Belgian azaleas, birds of paradise, Scottish heather, Himalayan orchids, Madeiran Laurisilva, and thousand-year-old olive trees span 70,000 sq m of property where peacocks, ducks, and swans roam among modern art installations and African sculptures.

Laurissilva Picture: Filipe Eusébio Gomes

Pay special attention to the collection of tile panels along the walkways and vegetation, considered one of the most important in the country and soak up the tranquillity of the Oriental gardens. Pagodas, bridges, koi carp, marble dragons, and a giant gold Buddha grace the property, as do lion-like fu dogs, said to ward off negative energies. Expect to spend two hours but prepare to stay longer. Returning to Funchal, try a novel form of public transport like the iconic carro de cesto (wickerwork sledge). Each toboggan holds up to three people, plus two drivers navigating Monte’s vertiginous hills and hairpin turns. Spoiler alert: The journey ends at the village of Livramento, a 50-minute walk to Funchal; also serviced by taxi and bus route 19. It’s fun though.

Speaking of which, a dolphin and whale-watching excursion is an incredible way to make memories. Over 3,000m deep, Madeira’s ocean harbours local and endemic fauna such as the Common Dolphin, Sperm Whale, and Loggerhead Turtle, with an endangered Monk Seal refuge on the Desertas Islands. The greatest chance of spotting these creatures in their natural habitat is on Madeira’s south coast from April to September, with daily boat departures from Funchal, Calheta and Machico.

If relaxation is more your speed, the 2.5-hour boat journey northeast to the adjacent Porto Santo delivers the goods. The island’s nine kilometres of sandy beaches are a lovely addendum to Madeira’s prevailing pebble variety, especially as its therapeutic benefits (think coral, shell, and sea urchin sediments) attract wellness adherents for psamotherapy (heated sand) and thalassotherapy (sea water).

Praia do Porto Santo Picture: Henrique S

As adventures go, consider yourself spoiled for choice. Should your bucket list need refilling, you can always return.

STAY

Meliá Madeira Mare

www.melia.com

Prices from €104 price per room and night

Next to the Lido, a 20-minute drive from the airport and a 20-minute walk to Funchal’s Old Town.

FLY

Fly direct from Dublin to Madeira Funchal with Ryanair twice weekly on Wednesdays and Sundays.

Flight time: 3 hours 40 mins

PACK

Although air and sea temperatures average between 18 and 24°C, microclimates exist from the humid wet mountains to the dry Porto Santo. Bring light layers, sunglasses and sunscreen, a hat and waterproof jacket, plus hiking boots or sturdy trainers depending on your activity preference.

SEE

The thatched A-framed houses in the village of Santana, including a 240-year-old, restored authentic dwelling.

The Cabo Girão viewpoint: a suspended glass ‘Skywalk’ suspended 580 metres above sea level–the highest promontory in Europe. The imposing view from Penha d’Águia at Porto da Cruz.

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DISCOVER