Ears and eyes open: Solo travel that feeds the soul on Sherkin Island

"There are those stunning beaches, a kayaking outfitter, plus a smattering of galleries which have earned Sherkin’s reputation as an artist’s hub and haven."

Mon, 18 Jul, 2022 - 11:09

Tom Breathnach

Planning a getaway as a lone traveller can often be a bit of a budget buster. Unsurprisingly few accommodations base their room rates on occupancy which is why it’s so always so exciting to stumble upon a spot where you feel like you are being saved the staycation tax for travelling alone (or being single!).

A recent case in point is North Shore Sherkin, an eclectic accommodation haven far-flung along the very fringes of the nation. The property charges just €60 for a one-person stay, so after rubbing my eyes during the initial booking process, I quickly clicked ‘book’ and hit the road (and sea, for about ten minutes) to check it out.

Sherkin Island, located off Baltimore, forms part of Carbery’s Hundred Isles, a stunning West Cork archipelago in Roaring Water Bay, which in reality makes up closer to 50 islands (we Corkonians like a touch of hyperbole).

I’d previously visited the group’s neighbouring treasures of Heir Island, Long Island, and of course, Cape Clear, but this was my first time on stunning Sherkin (Inish Arcáin) said to be named after the ‘sea piglets’ or porpoises who frequently dart around these shores.

The appeal of Sherkin for travellers averse to longer boat journeys, is it’s one of Cork’s most accessible offshore islands with that short ten-minute crossing from beautiful Baltimore ( sherkinferry.ie; €12 return).

Once on the island’s pier, overlooked by the ruins of an impressive abbey, I set off to my base via a 2.5km walk along boreens brimming with fuchsia, dogs roses and honeysuckle. Once beyond Kinish Harbour and the shimmering sands of Silver Strand and Trá na Bó, I soon reach my retreat on the other end of the island, basking under the July swelter.

The common room at North Shore Sherkin, Sherkin Island

Sherkin North Shore, run by Mike O’Connor and his family offers simple yet ambient accommodation set upon a glorious cliff face overlooking Heir Island and the peninsulas. The family took over the property eight years ago and welcomes tourists seeking a switch-off as well as providing a blank canvas for artists, writers and musicians to retreat to the location for inspiration.

They even host their annual Open Ear festival, which returned this year, where dozens of electronic acts converge to perform slick beats to even slicker sunsets.

My own room is set along a white-washed terrace of one-bedroom dorm-style properties, not unlike a rustic version of an Irish college campus. The room is a simple, almost utilitarian affair with a comfy double bed beneath an overhead bunk while an armchair and a few pops of island art bring the base more at one with the seascapes surrounding it. Guests also have access to the property’s panoramic common room; a light kitchen-cum-lounge-and-dining area which by day moonlights as Bruno’s Café, named after the family’s late German pointer whose image adorns one of the dressers.

The O’Connors can also provide evening meals upon arrangement (Mike was cleaning a fine pollack on the countertop when I arrived) but I’d bought a few backup provisions from the mainland to rustle up something in the kitchen and once fuelled up, I ventured out to explore for the evening.

Amid a world of FOMO-inducing options, there are just a few choice activities to season your Sherkin Island itinerary, which is all part of the allure here.

There are those stunning beaches, a kayaking outfitter, plus a smattering of galleries which have earned Sherkin’s reputation as an artist’s hub and haven. But it’s the simple life here which really enables you to connect with island life — and yourself! I enjoyed an evening of cliff walks and beach walks before enjoying a soul-feeding sunset over Mizen and beyond.

As a chaser, I make a trip down to the Jolly Roger pub that evening and enjoy a Cape Clear gin al fresco as the lights dim on the mainland. It’s a 6km round trip back to base but the walk is one of those rare, yesteryear moments, where traffic is non-existent and my footsteps are the only interruption to the serenity. They say you can hear a donkey bray across from Heir Island on a still day. For now, it’s just the call of the curlew as I meander my way back the winding roads in the most blissful state of solitude.

Get there:

Rooms for solo travellers at Sherkin North Shore (sherkinnorthshore.com) start from €60 per night; a particularly good deal in my book given the current climate.

Rooms for two-person occupancy start from €120 with a surcharge of €15 per child. They can also cater for larger groups while bell tents are a popular option and cost from €100 per night. If you are travelling to Sherkin with cumbersome luggage, you can arrange taxi transport to and from the property and the pier.

For more on Sherkin Island, see sherkinisland.ie

Island Tip:

One of my favourite offshore islands, Tory, 45 minutes off the coast of Donegal is worth the hype – and the haul. The island’s main accommodation, Ostán Thoraí (Tory Hotel) offers hotel rooms for single travellers from €75 to €120. I stayed last summer and enjoyed great hospitality, great food and a corncrake as your alarm clock is pretty cool too! While on the island, enjoy incredible hiking, live music and puffin watching if you get here before August. The island is a 45 minute journey from Magheroarty Pier off the Donegal Coast.