Three family getaways to get you in the mood for school summer holidays
The Old Ground Hotel in Ennis, Co Clare.
The receptionist set the scene. “You’re eating at the restaurant? Just wait.” We expected traditional hotel fare at The Town Hall, at the Old Ground Hotel in Ennis; reliable staples like fish and chips and burgers.
Instead we were treated to some of the best dishes we’d grazed on since our pre-lockdown days. Deep-fried brie, melt-in-the-mouth, for starters. Mains of cod and crab risotto for main. And the desserts? Chocolate cakes. Homemade chunky cookies for the kids. This restaurant is worth a visit to Clare all by itself.
But of course there was so much more to see, to do. Bunratty, just 20 minutes from the hotel, kept the kids entertained as they clamoured up the very top of the castle. There were animals to meet and pet, bouncy castles to leap on, recreations of old Irish houses and schools to wander through.
The next morning, after a breakfast — every bit as good as dinner – we pottered through Ennis, savouring the tiny shops, and the little treasure troves within. Ennis is known for its boutique offering, we popped into the long-established County Boutique and lapped up its pop of colour.
From there it was a short drive to Cliffs of Moher (kids go free). We passed through surfers’ heaven, Lahinch, adored the winding walkways of Ennistymon.
And then it was on to Moher Open Farm. Here we fed the animals (ponies and rabbits) played mini golf, all the whole admiring the breath-taking coastal views.
There was so much more to see: Doolin, Aillwee Caves, and the option of a ferry to the Aran Islands. We’ll be saving all that for our next trip west.
The Old Ground will be our base again; the beautifully restored 18th-century manor house hotel was a home away from home.
Prices start at €220.
Kilkenny is one of those cities with so much to offer over a short distance; from shopping and food to history and heritage — plus fun for kids and grown-ups alike, making it a great option for a family-friendly break.
We stayed at the four-star Pembroke Hotel in the heart of Kilkenny to make the most of the Marble City, and staff tell me it is a popular spot with some famous faces: not only has Cork man Graham Norton stayed there, but during my own visit I bumped into actor George Wendt — best known as Norm Peterson from — in the lift.
If you can drag yourself away from celeb-spotting in the hotel, Kilkenny Castle is practically on the its doorstep and it is a great way to spend an afternoon; learn the history of the castle plus explore the expansive grounds along the river too to tire out some little legs. The modern playground is a guaranteed hit with kids.
The highlight of our stay in Kilkenny was a visit to Jerpoint Glass ( jerpointglass.com), a family-run business making glassware that has featured in the series (kids might recognise Sirius Black’s drinking glass from , in particular) as well as pieces for Netflix series and BBC’s .
Buddy, a gorgeous Rhodesian Ridgeback, kept us company as master glassblower Rory Leadbetter demonstrated how they make the glassware.
It is mesmerising to see a lump of molten glass transform into a vase before your eyes, complete with added colour and unique style. Visitors can call to the studio to view the glassblowing free of charge while group tours and tailored experiences are also available.
A stop in Cakeface is mandatory when in Kilkenny to sample some of the delicious treats and dinner back at the hotel in Statham’s is very satisfying. Executive chef Ken Harker, formerly of the Michelin-starred Lady Helen restaurant, has a delectable menu and a kids menu is available too.
Cots are available in all of the Pembroke’s bedrooms and families can choose to book interconnecting rooms, while microwave, baby-changing, and bottle-sterilising facilities are also available.
For tired parents, a treatment in the onsite Mint Spa is a must — I can’t recommend the full body massage enough as the ultimate treat.
The Family Getaway package (from €240) includes freshly baked cookies and a glass of milk for little ones at bedtime and a cocktail and dessert for the grown-ups. After a full Irish breakfast, visit the ducks in Kilkenny Castle Park with a homemade bag of seed mix.
Following chef Eddie Attwell through polytunnels to explore herbs, vegetables, and other GIY delights, it strikes me that after hundreds of years in business the four-star Eccles Hotel in Glengarriff is certainly not stuck in the past, especially when it comes to food.
The award-winning chef, who honed his craft in two Michelin-starred establishments, can be found out in the polytunnels regularly; the produce on Attwell’s menu, including the various herbs that pop up in both dishes and drinks, is picked fresh each day from the garden and polytunnels, or it is foraged locally or supplied by local artisan food and drink suppliers.
Attwell is passionate about sustainable dining and says he is fortunate the owners of the Eccles, Ray Byrne and Eoin Doyle, share his vision.
Attwell tells me the littlest guests at the Eccles adore the polytunnels and love learning about where their food comes from – something he also sees in his own home, where he and his family delight in their own yield.
“We grow vegetables at home and my little girls love growing carrots – they feed the large ones to the horses near their school.”
The polytunnels are situated to the rear of the Eccles Hotel, which looks like the scene of a period seaside drama. The landmark hotel is perfectly located as a base to make the most of our gorgeous coast and with spacious rooms, ample parking and West Cork on its doorstep.
We stayed on a gloomy Sunday and despite the weather, the stay was a delight. Recently refurbished during lockdown, the comfortable bedrooms feel modern but retain a thoughtful nod to the building’s centuries-long history.
It is a hotel in touch with the past, but with its eyes firmly on the future. The addition of a wellness spa and stunning cliff-top outdoor thermal area is inspired, and an afternoon hut tub session is something I can heartily recommend — even in the drizzling rain.
In the surrounding area, adventurous guests can indulge in sea kayaking in Glengarriff Bay, a hike up to Mount Gabriel or even scuba-diving to discover what’s beneath the surface of Bantry Bay, all of which can be arranged for families with help from the hotel. A boat ride past Seal Island to nearby Garnish is also guaranteed to please all ages.
Bookings are available online with B&B rates at Eccles Hotel and Spa starting at €150 per night.
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