Muckross Park Hotel will put you in the Christmas spirit and two other breaks to book
Glenlo Abbey, Galway. Pic: Reg Gordon
I played Christmas songs for the entire car journey to Killarney, trying to get myself into the mood. It’s a lot of pressure to put on one hotel but I was depending on this weekend to inject some festive spirit into my veins.
And from the moment I walked into the cosy reception area, festooned with fairy lights and seven-foot trees decked out in silver and red bows, I had a feeling that might be just what I needed.
I was led to the Blue Poole suite, a large room with a separate lounge area, decorated in pale grey and muted florals, where a number of goodies were waiting. A This Works sleep spray was resting on the pillows, and on the coffee table, there was a bottle of red and white wine, and a small box of Lily O’Brien’s chocolates. A balcony off the lounge overlooked a woodland, and in the spacious bathroom, there were samples of the Organic Pharmacy products used in the hotel’s spa — the Renew & Revitalise Face Gel and the Glow & Revive Face serum — and Rituals toiletries.
For dinner that night, we ate at The Yew Tree, Muckross’s fine dining restaurant. In my experience, fine dining at hotels can be hit or miss — sometimes, you end up wishing they’d stick to more basic pub food. That was not the case here.
When the sundried tomato bread, and cottage loaf arrived with a selection of butters (I’ll be dreaming of that whiskey salted butter for months), it was clear we were in for a treat. I had the monkfish and squid rink risotto with a caviar garnish for starter, while my friend had the Caherbeg pork neck with pickled carrot and red miso aubergine.
For mains, I had the fine herb crepe with chilli roast cabbage, shitake and black trumpet mushrooms, while my friend had the braised beef cheek with truffle potato foam and onion jus. Both were absolutely delicious, as were the sides, perfectly roasted potatoes and tender stem broccoli.
The desserts — a blackberry and vanilla mouse in puff pastry, and a milk chocolate crémeux and macadamia mousse — sounded too good to pass up. After dinner, I took a long bath while listening to Enya’s Christmas album and I don’t think I’ve ever been happier. (Pro Tip — White Is in the Winter Night is an absolute banger.)
On the Saturday morning, we returned to the Yew Tree for breakfast. The room is quaint, with its oak furniture and heavy curtains, and jazz renditions of Christmas classics playing over the sound system. As I looked at the menu, I noticed that there were decent vegan and vegetarian options available which shouldn’t be unusual in 2021 and yet somehow, still is.
I opted for the full vegan breakfast with some cornbread on the side, while my friend opted for the traditional Irish breakfast. It was a perfect winter’s day, cold, dry, and bright, so we decided to take advantage of the hotel’s proximity to Killarney’s National Park and went for a walk, exploring the Abbey, Muckross House, and the Torc Waterfall.
Keeping an eye on the time, we hurried our step back to the hotel and made our way to the new Tea Rooms at Muckross Park. The room is fabulous, like something from Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby with its green floral wallpaper and Art Deco chandeliers.
We were given the choice between three types of champagne — Veuve Clicquot Brut, Demi Sec, or Rose — and the array of teas was extensive, with little samplers of the leaves on the table so you could sniff and see which one took your fancy. There was the usual tier of scones and sandwiches (again, vegan and gluten-free versions were available) but what blew me away was the selection of desserts, inspired by the National Park.
There was even a little Yew Tree made with dark chocolate ganache and green tea genoise. The creativity on display here was genuinely impressive — if you’re planning a hen party any time soon, this would be a great place to do it. I loved it.
I was whisked off to the spa next — a Gothic-inspired vitality suite, thermal area, sauna, steam room, and outdoor hot tub — for a massage with the lovely Gillian. It was so relaxing, I drifted off to sleep, and by the time she guided me to the relaxation room and handed me a mulled apple juice and ginger biscuit, I was fit for bed.
After breakfast on Sunday morning (and a quick ride of the hotel’s charming green bikes through the park, of course) it was time for us to go home. “Are you in the Christmas spirit now?” my friend asked, teasingly. “Yes,” I said. “I think I am.”
There’s something about hearing that first Christmas song on the radio, or walking into a decorated room, scented candles in the air, for the first time.
It’ll be weeks yet before you tire of the shedding tree, and the fairylights still feel like a novelty.
It has become something of a festive tradition for many to savour that full pre-Christmas glow in late November, and book a hotel for a night. Indulgent yes, but it is a night away like no other.
Checking in to the Sheen Falls Lodge in late November, the trees wrapped in yellow muted lights as you drive through the winding entrance, it is as though you've been wrapped in a magical blanket. That feeling will stay until check out.
There’s a lush, full tree at reception, the fire is lighting, decorations twinkling on the mantlepiece.
It’s breathtaking. There is a welcome drink on arrival, to sip by the flames, as you inhale the scents of pine and cinnamon.
Upstairs in the rooms, beautiful views of the water the Sheen Falls is so famous for; there's a cheese board; with local Lorge chocolates for afters.
The rooms are enormous, the pillows so soft you sink into them. It has all you’d expect from a five star — a brand new Nespresso machine, a marble bathroom stocked with Elemis, sumptuous dressing gowns hang in the wardrobes.
Walking down to dinner there’s a dual feeling of calm and occasion. This feels five star, yet there is no pomp and ceremony. You are warmly greeted at every corner.
Dining at is The Falls, choosing from the three-course menu option (€79 per person).
There are scallops for starter, halibut for main served with Lobster Stuffed Baby Courgette Champagne Sauce, and Courgette & Basil Puree. And the highlight — the Valrhona Chocolate Mousse, with Almond Namelaka, and Caramel & Salted Milk Ice Cream.
Afterwards, there’s a drink at the lounge with the same stunning views, another beautiful Christmas tree. The resident piano player and saxophonist really seal the deal — it is as though you have walked into your very own Hollywood Christmas movie.
The following morning there's time for the pool, prebooked the day before and oh so quiet, feeling safe in these pandemic times.
The sauna clears the mind, the jacuzzi massages the body, and you're ready for breakfast - avocado on sourdough toast, so wonderfully cooked there isn’t a hint of sogginess on the crunchy bread. Perfection. Pastries are also delivered to the table with an endless supply of coffee and newspapers.
A stroll through the stunning grounds, and a walk through the little treasure trove shops in Kenmare and it's time for home, Christmas music blaring of course. The festive season has officially begun.
Few hotels do Christmas like Glenlo Abbey in Galway.
Country house. Check. Mammoth Christmas trees. Check. Glistening decorations. Check. Mulled wine and mince pies on arrival. Check.
But what really sets it apart from the rest is The Pullman, the restaurant on site that just happens to be a couple of carriages from the Orient Express.
Dine to the background noise of a train soundtrack — you’ll honestly be convinced you are moving along the tracks.
Later there are festive movies at the Abbey Theatre.
Mark your diaries for December 2022.
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