The grand history of the Old Ground Hotel
To this day, the Old Ground manages to maintain its sense of history while giving guests all the conveniences of a modern hotel.
Planning a staycation along the spectacular west coast this summer? Well, the 4* Old Ground Hotel in the heart of Ennis, Co. Clare, lies close to the Cliffs of Moher, the Burren Geopark, Doolin Caves and Clare’s beaches. Galway, Limerick, Knock’s pilgrimage centre – and, not least, Father Ted’s House in Lackreagh – are all within reach.
The hotel’s video raises our expectations: “From the moment you walk through the gates of the Old Ground, you are aware that this is no ordinary hotel”. Venturing along its corridors, you glimpse antique paintings and sash windows. A recent visitor noted: “original exposed stonework” and “quiet, cosy corners”.
Today’s building hides an intriguing past. Constructed in the early 18th century as a manor house, it remained a private residence until 1895 when Jane McNamara began taking guests.
Always short of a bob or two, when he arrived at the hotel from Limerick in July 1917 Sinn Fein's founder Arthur Griffith scribbled a note in pencil to his mate, party treasurer Cathal Murphy, to post him a fiver. The note came to be sold for ÂŁ1,000 at Adams Auction House in Dublin.
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A convention of over 200 Sinn Fein delegates met that same month at the Old Ground, following the death of Major Willie Redmond, MP for East Clare, who was killed in action at Ypres. They selected a certain Éamon de Valera, recently released from prison in England, as their new candidate.
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A century ago, during the War of Independence – by which time staunch Nationalist Jane McNamara was 85 years old and blind – the Old Ground was used as the campaign headquarters for the IRA. On 19 April 1921, in retaliation for the kidnapping of two constables and the murder of Sergeant Rue, the Black and Tans and the Royal Irish Constabulary ransacked the place, seized most of the furniture and paintings, and set them ablaze on the lawn. Hotel food and drink was distributed to loyalist onlookers, while Harry Mills played 'God Save The Queen' on the hotel piano, before that too was put on the flames.
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Holidaying in Italy in 1927, engineer James O'Regan was approached by a Fiat rep that persuaded him to set up as an agent in Ennis. "My father found a garage all right", explained his son Brendan, "but there was a problem because it was part of a hotel that was closed down; the only way to get possession of the garage was to buy the hotel as well”. James forked out the necessary £2,000 and revamped the hotel.
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Over the next twenty years the Old Ground became "the most advanced hotel in the west of Ireland", claimed Brendan O'Regan. In 1936, American aviator Charles Lindbergh stayed there while scouting for locations to build a transatlantic gateway, and Shannon Airport, a mere twenty minutes drive from the hotel, opened in 1945.
To cater for the deluge of American passengers and crew staying during Atlantic stopovers, the hotel built a new extension. The former Blue Lounge was transformed into a communal area for Trans World Airlines, and the old cocktail bar (now the reception) became a meeting point for Pan Am passengers.
Meals started to be served throughout the night – something unimaginable at that time – and coach trips ferried Americans into Limerick and Galway City, and out to the cliffs and beaches. Harp and Eagle tours still bring Americans from Wisconsin and Illinois today to enjoy the Wild Atlantic Way.
But it wasn't all good news. Author Gearóid Ó hAllmhuráin noted that with the Americans "came coffee, doughnuts and showers”. Ennis Town Council feared that the town’s water supply would be threatened by the “overly hygienic Yanks!"
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In 1963 the O’Regans swapped their large house in Bindon Street for the Town Hall next to the Old Ground, enabling them to extend the Hotel. Just as in 1927 James’s garage had come with a hotel, the Town Hall court house – now the hotel’s Town Hall Bistro – came with another extra. Beneath it lie cells where prisoners once awaited deportation to Australia and Tasmania.
The same year the O'Regan family sold the Old Ground (1967), Clare’s hurling coach Tom Ryan promised his players hotel restaurant steak in return for good performances.
Purchased by Allen and John Flynn in 1995, it is now part of the Flynn Hotel Group. That year, to commemorate the hotel’s centenary, couples tying the knot could win a wedding at super low 1895 prices.
Former General Manager, Mary Gleeson, who ran the Old Ground for 22 years tells me: “the addition of 34 deluxe King Rooms and elegant suites in the early 2000s copperfastened the hotel’s position as one of the leading historical hotels in Munster”.
To this day, the Old Ground manages to maintain its sense of history while giving guests all the conveniences of a modern hotel. “Old World Elegance” merges with 16-channel TV and superfast wifi.
This summer, bed and breakfast – served in the restaurant dedicated to Brendan O'Regan – will set you back anything between €155 (Deluxe Room) and €245 per night (Superior Suite), though you can stay for four nights and pay for three. As for Arthur Griffiths, well, he'd at least be able to use his 'fiver' to buy an 'arf o' plain' in the Poet's Corner Bar.
The black and white Woodenbridge Hotel in Arklow (1608), nestled in the picturesque Vale of Avoca, claims to be Ireland’s oldest hotel. Starting life as a coach house, it became famous in 1796 after a large nugget of gold was found nearby in the Gold Mines River. Later, Charles Stewart Parnell was a guest, and in 1910 Éamon and Sinéad de Valera spent their honeymoon there.
Formerly a matching pair of Georgian houses, The Castle Hotel in Great Denmark Street, Dublin (1809) is the capital’s oldest hotel. Two centrally positioned period staircases lead to galleries on every floor, and many original marble fireplaces, antique mirrors and crystal chandeliers have been retained.
Cork’s oldest hotel is the magnificent Imperial (1816) on the South Mall. Among its famous guests are escaped slave Frederick Douglass (1845) and author Charles Dickens (1858). In 1922 Michael Collins spent his last night there before being shot. Liszt gave a piano recital, Maureen O’Hara frequently dined there, and Angela Lansbury is a “regular”.
The Quay House, Clifden, Co. Galway (1820) was built for the Harbour Master 200 years ago but later became a Franciscan monastery and a convent. Today’s comfortable hotel has 15 bedrooms, nearly all overlooking the harbour. You will find curios galore: gilt-framed mirrors, family portraits, cosy fires, even a bathroom Buddha.
The Commodore Hotel, Cobh (1854) was the first purpose-built hotel in Ireland. Originally called the Queen’s, it commemorated Queen Victoria stepping ashore a few yards away. Once it boasted fifty “sitting & sleeping arrangements”, a function room for 500, even fresh and saltwater baths. As an April Fools’ Day hoax in 1913, owner Otto Humbert pranked the ladies and gentlemen of Cobh by inviting them to a spoof free lunch.
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