The future of holidays in the Covid-era

What will holidays be like when we get the go ahead to travel again? From socially distanced entertainment to mandatory face masks for all, Northern Italy is seeking ways to rebuild its tourist industry

Like most resorts, the hugely popular resort of Bella Italia, a campsite tucked beside pretty Peschiera, is struggling to recover its post-lockdown sparkle

“Piano, piano,” Riccardo gestures, flattening invisible waves in the air with his hands. “Slowly, slowly tourists are returning to us.” 

The 37-year-old has been running a clothes shop in bougainvillea-clad Serimone overlooking Lake Garda for five years. Like many businesses dependent on foreign wallets, he’s starting to see numbers rise for the first time since the pandemic struck in March. “We were closed for three months,” he says, manipulating the store mannequins decked in face-masks that match their t-shirts. “I can’t earn money for my family with my doors shut. But andrà tutto bene, right?” 

Andrà tutto bene has been the slogan of solidarity across Italy. Translating as “everything will be alright,” it was the catch-cry of the community during the most difficult days of coronavirus, painted in rainbows and splashed across apartment windows all over the country. 

Northern Italy was one of the hardest hit areas of Europe, and those scars are still pretty fresh. The lure of the Lombardian scenery makes it easy to forget the horrific decisions doctors had to make here just weeks ago. Poker-straight cypress trees frame the hilly Veneto vineyards and azure skies stretch above like pulled silk. Despite the very successful efforts to bring the spread of C-19 under control, many of those dependent on visitor-trade fear that the perception of Italy has been tainted by the brutality with which it struck.

Tracing procedures are highly detailed even though, compared to the rest of Northern Italy, Lake Garda escaped relatively unscathed by the virus.

But according to the latest figures from the ECDC, contracting the virus while on holiday in Italy is statistically less likely than if you were in Ireland. Italy has an incidence rate of 6.1, meaning there are around 6 cases of Covid-19 for every 100,000 people in the country. Ireland’s rate is currently 9.2. This compares with an incidence rate of 29.5 in Sweden, 27 in Portugal and 14.1 in the UK.

The government has published its ‘green list’ of destinations that have similar or less cases of COVID-19 than Ireland, but the advice is still not to travel abroad. One of the destinations listed is Italy. So what will it be like when we eventually get the green light to travel again?

Like most resorts, the hugely popular resort of Bella Italia, a campsite tucked beside pretty Peschiera, is struggling to recover its post-lockdown sparkle. There are many Germans and Dutch, some Italians and a small number of British guests, but no other Irish. “Go raibh maith agat,” the lunchtime waiter grins over my creamy-sweet lasagne when he hears my accent.

Outside the resort, on a jetty stretching out over the silvery blue veins of the lake, Bardalino- native Luca rents boats by the hour.

He’s been waiting a year to practice this party-piece, usually reserved for the hordes of Irish holidaymakers who flock here faithfully each year. In fact, Bella Italia is such a popular resort among Irish families (they make up 35% of the clientele) that the “street” names on the campsite grid include Dublino, Kilkenny and Limerick. “It is very quiet here now since The Problem,” he admits sadly, his Italian staccato muffled through blue surgical material.

All around the region, the Problem is spoken about in hushed tones. But it also feels as if a truce of sorts has been reached. Rightly or not, there is an air of tentative compromise here.

Tourists once again roam the narrow streets, albeit in masks. Couples stroll around clutching cones, while shop owners stand, hands on hips, appraising the passing trade. But don’t mistake this for defiance. This is desperation - 3.5 million Italians rely on this industry to make ends meet. Dutch-native Hans and his family are among those here to appreciate la dolce vita. “We weren’t nervous, no,” he says with a shrug. 

We have to live with this virus. As long as we are all responsible we can still enjoy our lives. As long as everyone is responsible, of course.

Locals here understand that living with the virus might just be the only option – that livelihoods might just survive as long as everyone takes the precautions necessary. In the Bella Italia resort, like most places in Italy, masks are mandatory indoors for all except the youngest of children. Sunbeds around the pool are spaced out, an incredible feat given the number of tourists usually sprawled around the five pool complexes. But numbers have dwindled from its capacity of 7500 to just 1500. 

Sun loungers are spritzed down each time someone leaves, a swim-hat policy has been introduced and Perspex screens shield the reception areas. Entertainment in the evenings sees seating staggered by the Italian Government’s advised 1-meter social distance. Even the fireworks display  — the highlight of the season — is arranged so everyone is spaced apart as they line the moonlit lake.

Andrà tutto bene has been the slogan of solidarity across Italy. Translating as “everything will be alright,” it was the catch-cry of the community during the most difficult days of coronavirus.

I’m staying in a mobile home called The Iris  — a gay blue and white-clad cabin a stone’s throw from the corral-sprinkled lakeside pebbles. It’s a brand new addition to the Bella Italia family of accommodation — hotel, bungalows, mobile homes and park and pitch facilities.

Campsite manager Francesca Stevanoni explains that every cabin gets spray disinfected between stays. Everything does feel spotless and our safety prioritised. Days here are designed to be spent people-watching, eating exquisite squid and floating next to swans in that turquoise lake. “We wanted to get the balance right between our guests understanding that we take their safety extremely seriously, but also having providing the same feeling of escapism that we all crave on our holidays,” Francesca points out. “We are luckier here because everyone has their own space.” At full capacity, how this will be managed is somewhat less clear.

The regulations of the region are reassuringly strict. Quick and swift action by authorities sets the area apart as a holiday hub. Tracing procedures are highly detailed even though, compared to the rest of Northern Italy, Lake Garda escaped relatively unscathed by the virus.

Outside the resort, on a jetty stretching out over the silvery blue veins of the lake, Bardalino-native Luca rents boats by the hour. “The difference now is that in previous years in high season, all our boats would be booked a week in advance,” he says in perfect English from beneath his mask. “Now, we are just busy at the weekends, mainly with Italian tourists. We need more. Italians are hardworking but extremely resilient. Like the Irish…” There is no mistaking the growing buzz of tourists that start trickling in as the week passes.

They are mostly Italian families or border-neighbours who have driven here, enjoying life and escaping that stress we all recognise from prolonged lockdown.

The precautions are surprisingly easy to get used to  — temperature checks are mandatory on all the local ferries. In restaurants, bread is placed on the table in small paper bags rather than left out in baskets. Cutlery is presented in paper covers. All waiting staff wear masks but thankfully, it’s no personality suppresser. We were welcomed at every turn like long lost friends. Because, we have all been a little bit lost, all of us together. Well-known Italian writer, Enrika Mambretti has been holidaying on Lake Garda for many years. She says Italy was always going to bounce back best. 

Italians are hardworking but extremely resilient. Like the Irish. We are slowly finding our joy again.

Life might never be the same again - not for any of us, but rather than a frollicky, unnecessary thing, responsible tourism might just have a foothold in our lives alongside Covid-19.

Andrà tutto bene? Perhaps.