The great outdoors
To mark Cork Harbour Festival, rounds up the county’s best summer trails – and the finest lunch venues for afters.
This weekend sees the start of the Cork Harbour Festival — a seven-day celebration of the city and the sea which has a big foodie element, from the popular Boats & Bites street-food fest at city’s Bonded Warehouses (Saturday, June 9, 4pm-7pm) to festival food partners around the harbour.
Cork Harbour Fest is all about what makes the city and county famous — our coast and our food. But right through the summer, there’s no better way to reward yourself after a hard day’s walking, swimming or exploring than with a hearty meal in a special setting.
There are many great ways to combine fab food and the great outdoors in Cork — some of the best include:
Award-winning seafood and epic fortifications in Crosshaven and Kinsale – Camden Fort Meagher is one of the most epic coastal forts on our island — built by the Victorians to protect Cork harbour.
Today (thanks to the sterling work of local volunteers) it is a fascinating place to visit, with huge fortifications, underground tunnels, hidden gun emplacements and stunning views from a cliff-top out over Cork Harbour. It’s open weekends and bank holiday Mondays throughout the summer.
After your visit, go back down the hill into the village of Crosshaven and drop by the famous Cronin’s Pub — eat sumptuous seafood at the bar or in its Mad Fish restaurant. Cronin’s is one of just 31 pubs on the whole island in the Michelin Good Food In Pubs Guide.
In Kinsale, there’s a similar experience to be had with the historic Charles Fort, one of the best preserved coastal Star Forts on these islands — and below the fort in its own little harbour, you’ll find the famous Bulman Bar & Toddies Restaurant. You can reach the Bulman and Charles Fort from Kinsale town via the scenic and short (1.5km) coastal walk that’s well-posted from the town.
This walk is kid-friendly and a great way to see Kinsale and Charles Fort before dropping into the Bulman for a bite to eat.
The Ballycotton Cliff Walk and Fish N’Chips at the Blackbird – A relatively recent addition to Cork’s coastal walks, the Ballycotton Cliff Walk has become a firm favourite, going from the charming East Cork fishing village of Ballycotton to the beach at Ballyandreen. It’s a bracing walk — 7km there and back — but the views of the wild Atlantic on one side of you and wind-blown meadows on the other are amazing.
Do the whole walk or just go halfway — but bring stout shoes and be prepared to climb over a stile or two.
The best way to visit this East Cork gem? Go on a Saturday. Start early at the famous Midleton Farmer’s Market, sample and buy from the best of local artisan producers and then travel on 18kms to Ballycotton.
The trail starts right in the village above the harbour — do the walk and then reward yourself with Fish n’ Chips at the gorgeous Blackbird Harbour Pub. You won’t find better anywhere in Ireland. This is a fabulous foodie day out for all the family.
Walk the Sheep’s Head Way and enjoy fine pub dining in Ahakista – Dedicated walkers will know all about the Sheep’s Head Way, a network of trails on this stunning headland in far West Cork.
It’s around a two hour, leisurely drive from Cork city — and one of the (many) great places to eat nearby is the award winning Arundels By The Pier pub. Do a morning or afternoon up on Sheep’s Head, then make straight for this most charming of seaside pubs for great gastropub fare. It’s been voted the best in Munster.
For those who fancy a sun-downer after their meal, just walk five minutes to the famous Tin Pub — one of the quirkiest pubs in Ireland with a stunning beer-garden that reaches right down to the sea.
You could visit the area on a Friday — and spend part of the morning at the Bantry Farmer’s Market — one of the best in the country in a historic market town that is really celebrating its food heritage.
Whale watching and seafood in Union Hall and Glandore – Spend a few hours looking for the giants of the deep with Cork Whale Watch who run daily trips out of the fishing harbour village of Union Hall in West Cork.
While there, drop by the famous Union Hall Smoked Fish store to sample or stock up on the very best in smoked salmon, tuna, kippers, crab and trout. And for lunch or post whale-watching supper, take a short trip around the bay to the charming village of Glandore where you can try the food from chef David Wine at Hayes Bar & Kitchen (regulars will point you towards his famous curries).
Or, paddle and pizza in Castlehaven Bay/Union Hall – On Fridays and Saturdays throughout the summer you can spend a half-day kayaking in Castlehaven Bay by Union Hall with Atlantic Sea Kayaking before returning to dry land for an artisan pizza.
Enjoy a slice on the beach or by the pier after a few hours out on the waves watching all the local marine life. It’s a very special, very West Cork way to get close to nature and enjoy great food (the half-day trips with a pizza are €60, there’s a night-time trip with a pre-paddle early bird meal at the Glandore Bistro for €75).
Urban kayaking, cocktails and tapas in Cork city – Get a unique view of Cork city as you paddle under its bridges, down the river and out to the harbour mouth at historic Blackrock Castle.
Atlantic Sea Kayaking run trips (and can take total novices) from the landing pier alongside the Clayton Hotel in the city centre, every evening in the summer.
You can take to the water in a double canoe, paddle with an expert guide down to Blackrock Castle and then return to the same spot to continue your evening with cocktails and tapas at nearby Cask on McCurtain Street or at fun and funky Arthur Mayne’s Pharmacy on Pembroke Street by the GPO.
This may be the most unique and romantic way to spend an evening in Cork City.
Post Office brunch by Blarney Castle and pizza at Toons Bridge Dairy – In the shadow of Cork’s most iconic landmark, you’ll find the tiny but charming Old Post Office Cafe, a lovely spot for breakfast or brunch in what was Blarney village post office.
After brunch and a visit to the castle (make sure to walk the grounds and gardens), you could drive on (40 minutes) to Toons Bridge Dairy, the delightful deli, dairy and café that is one of the shining stars of North Cork’s busy food scene.
Toons Bridge (near Macroom) are famous for their home-made cheeses and cured meats with a great selection of Irish and Italian delicacies which end up on their famous pizzas.
This is a great road trip, taking in one of the iconic sights of Cork, a quirky, fun café and one of the real gems of Cork’s food scene. What are you waiting for?
CORK HARBOUR FESTIVAL
If you are in Cork for this year’s Harbour Festival (until June 10) make sure to check out their special, food-themed events which include:
The Great Cobh Chowder Cook-Off (The Promenade, Cobh – midday to 3pm): Invented in Boston, perfected in Cork, chowder in all its many forms, from traditional to Mediterranean or Asian-influenced, is a signature dish for coastal Cork.
And what better way to enjoy it than on the Promenade in the historic port of Cobh, watching the famous Ocean to City Race – a mad dash from the harbour to the city by scores of boats of all shapes and sizes and one of the great highlights of the festival.
Local hotels, restaurants and chefs will be competing to be crowned Cork’s Chowder Kings and you can sample and rate the best as the Ocean to City boats dash by.
A great event for all the family with colour, excitement and amazing food (and not just chowder).
Visit Ireland’s most celebrated smokehouse at Belvelly with tours at 11am, 2pm and 4pm. Frank Hederman is one of the rock stars of the Cork food-scene, a self-taught craftsman who is world-renowned for his smoked salmon.
Frank has Ireland’s only authentic timber smoke-house – at Belvelly on the harbour – where fish are hung on tall racks for smoking (including wild Irish fish caught on the Lee estuary).
This is a rare opportunity to visit Belvelly Smoke House and follow in the footsteps of international food journalists and renowned chefs who have made the pilgrimage to this very special smoke house.
Entry: €5pp, €15 family (10 yrs old & under, free of charge). Email caroline@frankhederman.com with preferred time.
Boats and Bites with Meitheal Mara, Port of Cork Bonded Warehouses, 4pm to 7pm.
This festival of street-food, clustered on the stone-quays around our 17th century Bonded Warehouses, is always one of the highlights of the Harbour Festival.
Stalls set up right on the quay, serving up everything from oysters and mussels to paella, sushi, prawn bhajis and good old fish n’chips.
You can graze the stalls and take a free trip down the river in a traditional currach (there’s also traditional longboats and even Chinese dragon boats).
This year will see the historic Pelican Of London sailing ship docked on the quay as well as a more modern Irish Naval Service Ship and both will be open for free tours.
It’s free entry, the buzz is always great and there’s food to die for in one of the most picturesque spots in the harbour, just ten minutes’ walk from the city centre. Great for families.
For more on Cork food culture, food trails, special events and recipes from Cork’s best chefs, you can check out the Taste Cork website here.
CONNECT WITH US TODAY
Be the first to know the latest news and updates
