Copenhagen a city of magical charm
Before I landed in Copenhagen, I knew one thing — it was going to be expensive. That’s all I’d heard from other people who’d visited the Danish capital; I’d ask on social media what tips friends had for me and was constantly told “bring lots of cash”.
It was a bit off-putting; I didn’t think anywhere could be more outrageously expensive than London or even Dublin, so I was a little fearful of what a long weekend in Copenhagen would do to my savings.
However as soon as I arrived at Central Station (a convenient 12 minute journey from the airport), my worries abated.
Sure, it might cost about €5 for a coffee and €7 for a beer, but in a city this beautiful and vibrant, who the hell cares?
The flights are cheap, and there are ways to save money (more on that later).
I decided there and then that I’d nix the idea of shopping til I dropped on the famous Stroget high street, and instead focus on eating, drinking and being merry.
Because after all, that’s what people come to Copenhagen to do.
It’s the city that can claim the greatest restaurant in the world, Noma, and the Danes like to party just as much as the Irish do.
They’re famous for their pastries, their beer and their hospitality — my kind of town.
My partner Joe and I wanted to check out a couple of different sides of Copenhagen.
Our first thought was to rent a houseboat via Airbnb, but we decided that November might not be the best time of year for such a whim.
We looked at some apartments in the cool Norrebro area, but I wanted more of a holiday vibe to our break.
Eventually we settled on trying two different central hotels in two very different categories — a pocket-friendly boutique hotel in Vesterbro, the former red light district turned hipster enclave, and the luxurious and unusual Nimb hotel known for its high-end service and whimsical vibe.
We checked in to the Andersen on Friday night.
We’d sensed a party vibe around the city when we arrived, and soon learned that we’d arrived smack bang in the middle of Copenhagen’s very own version of Arthur’s Day (RIP).
Twas the night that Tuborg launched their annual Christmas brew, Julebryg, and at 8.59pm, masses in blue Santa hats raised a beer to celebrate. It would have been rude not to join them.
After a wander through the Meatpacking district (smaller than New York’s), we ended up in a pizza joint called Neighbourhood (www.neighbourhood.dk).
One word featured heavily on the menu that you might not expect in a pizza joint, and it was one we’d come to see all over Copenhagen — “organic”.
Yep, the Danes like everything pesticide free, even their booze.
We ate fabulous and allegedly low carb pizzas, quaffed seasonal organic rum cocktails and ended up in the bar of Hotel Absalon for more Julebryg and Connect4.
On Saturday we woke up ready to wander.
Copenhagen is a very walkable city, and we’d heard of a food market across the river on Paper Island.
On the way, we bypassed the Tivoli Gardens (www.tivoligardens.com), an upmarket theme park in the middle of the city featuring rides, restaurants and shows — and very sadly closed to prepare for the festive season.
It’s often used as a concert venue, and opens at various points during the year fully themed for the season.
After New Year, its gates remain shut until April, and then it opens all summer long and again for Halloween.
We crossed the river, marvelling at the mish-mash of architecture along its quays, and also at just how bicycle friendly the city is.
We wandered down the canal in Christianshavn, a beautiful area in Copenhagen built to resemble another northern hotspot, Amsterdam.
It’s lined with houseboats and fabulous yachts, colourful buildings and has a sense of calm and quiet.
We reached the Copenhagen Street Food Market (www.copenhagenstreetfood.dk) around lunchtime and joined the throngs of Danes and tourists entering the building by the docks.
For a pair of foodies like us, it was bliss — fresh tacos served from a VW bus, seafood, surf and turf burgers, focaccia pizzas, stuffed sandwiches and just-made pasta, it’s difficult to commit to just one dish.
We end up doing several laps and splitting four delicious portions. There’s also a massive gin bar, cocktails, and of course, beer.
You can sit inside and drink wine, or take a deckchair dockside to eat your grub.
That afternoon, we took a cruise that’s included in our Copenhagen Cards (www.copenhagencard.com).
You can buy them for 24, 48 or 72 hours and they allow free entry into museums and attractions, free public transport and discounts in restaurants and bars.
The cruise is great; we cover all the major points of interest, find out more about the buildings that made us ooh and aah, and spot a few places to visit later.
We see the Little Mermaid; my helpful Facebook friends had said not to bother making a pilgrimage to her, and they were right — glimpsing Hans Christian Andersen’s heroine from the boat sufficed.
That night we went out in Vesterbro, ate at a trendy restaurant and sampled some craft beers in one of the famous Mikkeller bars (mikkeller.dk) that are dotted around the city.
You might think we’d be sick of beer, but on Sunday we decided to visit the hilariously named Carlsberg ExBEERience (www.visitcarlsberg.dk).
After brunch at the most hipster establishment I’ve ever visited, we walked to the famous brewery. The company owns Tuborg and has its own craft brand called Jacobsen.
We toured the buildings, saw the world’s largest beer bottle collection (over 20,000, and of course we spotted the Guinness) and met the cart horses.
A beer tasting taught us the difference between pilsner and ale.
After that, why, more Julebryg of course!
Sunday night, we checked in to the Nimb. A friend (with evidently deep pockets) had recommended the five star hotel, and it took my breath away. As a travel writer, I’ve visited some stunning hotels, but none like Nimb.
Its façade doesn’t let on what lies within, but it’s an absolute party in the back — a Moorish-style building entirely covered with lightbulbs, its terrace is part of Tivoli.
Even though the park itself is closed, we get a glimpse of the wonder that lies within.
Sixteen of the 17 rooms have their own fireplace; all have a bath you can get lost in, rainforest showers and individually sourced furnishings.
The bar is a former ballroom complete with several chandeliers and a roaring fire, the brasserie is famous for its food and the service is second to none.
I could live there happily, if only I could afford it.
After a weekend of beer and rich food, we rented bikes on Monday to circle the city one last time before leaving.
It’s how the Danes get around, and it’s easy even for an unskilled cyclist like me.
We visited the world’s only “free town” of Christiana, but felt very conspicuous and scarpered quickly, and we passed the pretty harbour of Nyhavn.
Even though we missed out on the Christmas festivities, we’re a little in love with Copenhagen and have plans to return with family.
Like London, New York or even Dublin, it’s a place you can visit any time of year and find some magic.
Yes, it’s dear if you plan on buying copious cups of coffee, eating at Michelin star restaurants and buying lots of Scandi souvenirs.
But we did our research before we went, booked some nice mid-priced restaurants in advance and got great value out of the Copenhagen card.
While it’s not unfriendly to children, it’s an adult playground — a classy destination for a hen or stag party, great for a romantic break and now somewhere I’m planning to take my own parents.
Living Danishly is very on trend right now — and I can see why.
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