Austria, Norway or Poland: In search of the perfect winter wonderland at Christmas

Shopping and sleighbells, snowy peaks and frosty pine trees. Is there somewhere you can find it all? Jo Kerrigan finds the perfect festive destination. 
Austria, Norway or Poland: In search of the perfect winter wonderland at Christmas

We all have an idea of the perfect traditional Christmas.

It’s partly based on Dickensian dreams, partly on the plethora of great classic movies, but overall it’s a blend of the things we feel should be there for that unbeatable sense of the season.

And, to be entirely truthful, Ireland doesn’t fulfil too many of the criteria, especially when it comes to the weather.

Snow is what we want at Christmas, and not soggy dripping slush either, but crisp, dry, piling high, let’s pull on scarves and hats and go tobogganing snow.

We wouldn’t even mind shovelling it off the driveway, since we could make a snowman with the results.

A spot of skiing would be good, and some snowboarding.

A toboggan run would delight the kids, a nighttime sleigh ride would be the stuff of romance.

Good rib-sticking food to keep out the chill, hot chocolate with whipped cream, and of course eggnog, grog, glogg or gluhwein, to put you in the mood for carols as the moon rises.

Don’t forget the shopping — we want to find delightful little gifts in friendly small shops or wonderful festive markets that look like something out of a fairytale.

Well there is. Or, rather, there are. Out of all the possibilities we’ve narrowed it down to just four which look to have the lot and really offer the best chance of capturing that elusive but so sought-after Christmas spirit.

The Old World: Kitzbuhel

So What’s Good About It?

Austria has always known how to do the old-fashioned Christmas, and nowhere more so than in the Tyrol.

You’ll find all the delights your heart desires in the medieval town of Kitzbuhel, right down to the youngest person in the household lighting the candles on the tree on Christmas Eve and the whole family singing Silent Night (it was composed at Oberndorf not far away.)

Kitzbuhel has long been famed for its skiing and it also has floodlit skating rinks, and enough quaint little shops to satisfy the most ardent gift-buyer, as well as exceptionally luxurious ones stocking big international brands.

There are restaurants and cafes galore, so you’ll need those healthy walks amid the snow-laden pine trees.

And if you feel like it, a quick day-trip to Innsbruck or even Vienna, to browse their wonderful Christmas markets, is an easy option on the excellent rail system.

There’s every kind of accommodation from simple B&B in wooden chalets to supremely luxurious hotels.

If you choose a home stay, you just might be lucky enough to get a tap on your door on Christmas Eve as a child delivers freshly-baked biscuits to mark the special night. Prices generally are a little lower than in Ireland.

So What’s The Downside?

Well you won’t be the only one wandering through the snow on Christmas morning.

The Tyrol is one of the easiest places to reach from the Ireland, so it will be extremely crowded, and you are likely to meet someone you know.

Inhale enough of the Gemütlichkeit (state of warmth, friendliness and general good cheer) and you won’t care.

Can’t Wait, How Do I Get There?

Not difficult. You’ll find Kitzbuhel in most winter ski brochures. If you want to do your own thing, Munich Airport is about two hours away, Salzburg one hour.

The Far North: Tromso

So What’s Good About It?

You won’t meet too many of your Irish neighbours, that’s for sure.

Well above the Arctic Circle in furthest Norway, the daylight hours are short, but the liveliness in this bustling university town goes on 24/7.

Fascinating shops sell beautiful handmade sweaters, toys, craft items, as well as serious cold-weather gear.

Take the cable car up to the mountain at dusk and enjoy a heart-stopping view of the starry sky reflected in the fjords. Get your Eskimo gear on and go dog-sledding across the frozen wastes. Try your hand at cross-country skiing.

Meet gentle-eyed reindeer wandering across your path. Best of all, book a late evening tour searching for the elusive Northern Lights.

One of the best takes you to a traditional tepee where a fire of birch logs keeps burning all night to banish the chill, and hot chocolate is standing by in thermos flasks as you dash in from another watching session outside.

Once seen, never ever forgotten.

So What’s The Downside?

It’s expensive. Eye-wateringly expensive. Norway has its own oil and doesn’t need the EU, thanks.

Currency is the kroner, about eight to the Euro: hand over the equivalent of a €50 note for a few drinks and don’t expect change!

Some hotels include breakfast, daytime snacks, and dinner in their price, and these are the ones you should snatch at, unless you’ve just won the jackpot.

Plus very little daylight in winter can be a downer for some, a delight for others.

Can’t Wait, How Do I Get There?

Dublin-Tromso (with stops) SAS or Lufthansa. Look for package deals on tripadvisor.ie, expedia.ie, and on norway-travel.com.

Go East: Zakopane

So What’s Good About It?

Another one where you won’t meet too many of your friends.

For a long time hidden behind the Iron Curtain, and only now emerging shyly into the international market, this delightful little Polish ski resort tucked deep into the Tatra mountains is still way behind experienced tourist destinations like Austria, but more than making up for that in charm and friendliness.

It’s very popular with Eastern Europeans for mountain climbing, and cross-country skiing. While you can enjoy these too — and at lower prices than other destinations — there is much to see that is marvellously different to our jaded Western eyes.

A busy outdoor market, with rosy-cheeked babushkas muffled to the eyes in warm hoods and scarves, sells practical warming items like beautifully soft sheepskin jackets, lovingly handknit sweaters, even handspun wool at very good prices, as well as essentials like bread, meat and vegetables.

So What’s The Downside?

Well, if you’re looking for sophistication and designer outlets, you won’t get too many in Zakopane. (It would suit folklorists mightily though.)

Credit cards not yet widely taken. Although Poland is part of the EU, they’re still on the zloty (four zloty to the Euro).

Can’t Wait, How Do I Get There?

Dublin to Kraków, then some two hours by taxi, train or bus to Zakopane. You could rent a car yourself, but the roads are a bit iffy, and local drivers somewhat energetic. Package deals from tripadvisor.ie and expedia.ie.

Who’s The Winner?

Oh come on, you know the answer already.

It’s up to you. Do you want local unusual culture or international luxury?

Does hot chocolate mean more than caviar?

Will you expire without your favourite brand of muesli on Christmas morning?

What kind of gifts do you want to put under the tree — handmade felt toys or the latest electronic gadgets?

Are black ski runs your thing, or gentle toboggan slopes?

Folklore or fur-trimmed slippers?

Are you into lifetime memories or living in the moment?

Each of these destinations has all the festive basics: the one you choose depends on your dreams.

More in this section

Lifestyle

Newsletter

The best food, health, entertainment and lifestyle content from the Irish Examiner, direct to your inbox.

Cookie Policy Privacy Policy Brand Safety FAQ Help Contact Us Terms and Conditions

© Examiner Echo Group Limited