24 hours in Brussels, the capital of Belgium
PEOPLE associate Brussels with being nominal capital of the EU. Diplomats and politicians equal eurocrat blandness?
There is, perhaps, a certain truth in this, but when business has been done and the short journey has been made from the sleek, steel and glass of the Euro headquarters to the city centre, Brussels can effortlessly transform into a multi-cultural melting pot of alluring and lived-in character.
From high-end shopping, along Avenue Louise, to the down-to-earth neighbourhood of Marolles and the breathtaking Grand Place, Brussels is, diplomatically speaking, a marvel.
A short walk from Brussels’ pulsating city centre, Hotel Le Plaza, Boulevard Adolphe Max, is one of the city’s older, grander hotels, designed by Michel Polak, who used Paris’ George V Hotel as his inspiration.
Double rooms from €130, and free Wi-Fi in all areas (including bedrooms), make this one a practical and quality choice ( www.leplaza-brussels.be ).
If you want to be in the thick of it and have a little money to spare, then Hotel Amigo, Rue De L’Amigo, is perfect. Situated less than a stone’s throw from the Grand Place, prepare yourself for a real five-star attitude here.
Factor in a serious collection of artwork that references the city’s famed artists, Rene Magritte and Herge (creator of Tintin), and interior design by the award-winning Olga Polizzi, and you have a smart-looking place that oozes quality. Doubles from €230 ( www.hotelamigo.com).
Another gorgeous hotel, a few minutes’ walk from the Grand Place, and right behind the theatre La Monnaie, is The Dominican, Rue Leopold, a stylish establishment (in a converted convent, no less) created by the award-winning architects, FG Stijl.
The rooms are quite reasonable (from €125) and boast free internet access, fab bathrooms, and — yes, thank you, God! — a Nespresso machine ( www.thedominican.be ).
If you want to mix business, pleasure, tourism and Michelin-rated dining, then the five-star Radisson Blu Royal Hotel is a wise move.
Noted Belgian architect, Michel Jaspers, designed the Art Deco façade, and the Michelin two-star Sea Grill restaurant and the hotel’s close proximity to a plethora of city centre eateries add to the appeal. Rooms from a very reasonable €104, all with free Wi-Fi. (0032-2219 2828, www.radissonblu.com/royalhotel-brussels ).
If you haven’t seen the Grand Place before, then prepare to be gobsmacked. This is a triumphant blend of Baroque and Gothic architecture, equal parts imposing and singularly beautiful.
It is, perhaps, better experienced in the early morning, before the hordes of camera-toting tourists arrive. So why not go right after breakfast, choose a café seat, and soak up the splendour?
To get to the Saint-Gilles district, you’ll need to either put on your walking boots or take a tram or taxi. It’s worth the (short) journey, as here you’ll find the exquisite Horta Museum.
Dedicated to the life and work of Ghent-born Victor Horta, an acclaimed Art Nouveau architect and designer, this intimate museum is light, airy and exceptionally pretty (Closed Mondays; open Tuesday to Sunday, 2pm-5.30pm; €8 entry; 25 rue Americaine, www.hortamuseum.be ).
Now open over five years, the Magritte Museum has become a must-see for art lovers. The splendid gallery features over 200 works of Magritte’s surrealist art.
Advance (online) booking is essential, as, if it’s busy — and it’s busy all year round, believe me — you won’t gain admission without a ticket. (Closed Mondays; open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am-5pm, €8 entry; 1 Place Royal, www.musee-magritte-museum.be ).
Walking down from the Place Royal, you’ll come face-to-face with the Museum of Musical Instruments (aka the Old England Building), which is a sight for Neo-Classical and Art Nouveau eyes, with its girded steel and glass façade.
After rubbing your eyes, you should pop inside for a look-see of its 7,000-plus instruments and then go up to its top-floor café for a coffee and a spectacular view of the city.
(Closed Mondays; open Tuesday to Friday, 9.30am-5pm, Saturday and Sunday, 10am-5pm €8 entry; Montagne de la Cour 2, www.mim.be/en ).
For an altogether quality and glamorous eating experience, pay a visit to Belga Queen, Rue Fosse aux Loups 32, which is housed within one of the most decorative belle époque dining rooms (designed by Antoine Pinto), you’ll ever have the pleasure of sitting in.
The menu is fish-oriented, but also comes with interesting meat/poultry dishes, such as cuckoo.
Expensive? Yes, but what do you expect from a classy restaurant located in a former bank? As for the toilets — well, let’s just say the cubicle doors are very interesting ( www.belgaqueen.be ).
Close by the Belga Queen is A La Mort Subite, Rue Montagne-aux-Herbes Potageres. This bar is a rarity — a Brussels institution that isn’t too touristy.
It’s a great place to while away an hour or two, and offers distinct atmosphere and more Belgian beers than you’ll ever have time for in two or three days ( www.alamortsubite.com ).
For somewhere central but just off the beaten track, make your way to Bij den Boer, Quai aux Briques 60, a fish restaurant with strategically appointed antique décor that seems as if it could have been around since the Boer War ( www.bijdenboer.com ).
For somewhere just as distinctive, try Soul, Rue de la Samaritaine, an organic fusion restaurant very close to the Place du Sablon.
Using food sourced as much as possible from organic farms, Soul’s kitchen is free of butter and cream, its freshly prepared food, free of additives, preservatives and white sugar (soulresto.com).
Also close to the Place du Sablon is one of Brussels’ oldest bars — La Fleur, in Papier Dore, 53 rue des Alexiens.
Once frequented by surrealists Rene Magritte and Paul Rouge, this traditional place seeps history and art — check out the walls for proof of this. Definitely worth a quick detour for a relaxing glass of Belgian beer — but be careful on those steps from the bar to the toilets!
For antiques, try Place du Grand Sablon; for high-end boutiques, head to Avenue Louise; and for trendy Belgian designer threads, visit Rue Antoine Dansaert.
Aer Lingus and Ryanair operate daily flights between Dublin and Brussels. Aer Lingus operates a regular weekly service between Cork and Brussels.
* www.visitflanders.co.uk
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