Lisbon, a city of history
THE guide from the Lisbon Tourism Board was delivering a masterclass in showcasing the very best of what she termed ‘her’ city had to offer. A five-second pause was too awkward so she’d start up a new conversation on a new chapter about this most marvellous of off-the-beaten-track cities.
Not out of insecurity, mind, but on a three-day trip, she knew her window to sell this place would close all too soon and boy was she determined to impress.
“But why,” I enquire rather sheepishly, interrupting one of her history lessons, “do I rarely see Portuguese people anywhere I travel, given they were the best travellers in the history of the world a few centuries ago? They invented the thing, did they not?”
Stunned into silence, she searches for an answer before dishing up a most persuasive response: “Because that is then and this is now,” she laughs. And off she goes again, qualifying her answer in one long, unbroken speech.
Lisboa (to the locals) is one of the oldest cities in the world. First to pitch up here were a series of Germanic tribes in the fifth century while the Greeks, the Carthaginians, and then, in 205BC, the Romans, who stayed until the 5th century AD, also called it home. After some tribal chaos, the city was taken over by the Moors in 714 who fortified the place and fended off the Christians for 400 years.
In 1147, the latter eventually took control and remained for several hundred years. It was during this time the city enjoyed staggering growth, as trade routes were opened with Asia, the Far East, and Brazil. In short, the place became the world capital of opulence and extravagance. Led by their most famous son, Vasco da Gama, they went all over in search of wealth — and often found it.
But the good times didn’t last and when three earthquakes resulted in a devastating tsunami in 1755, the city lost a third of its population and literally had to build it again. Not forgetting Napoleon’s reign of terror at the beginning of the 19th century, the city experienced massive corruption and chaos in the years that followed. Even as recent as 100 years ago a former president was assassinated and they endured a staggering 45 changes of government in just 16 years.
That was then, and if that was all too quick, then check out the Lisboa Story Centre on Praça do Comércio, a fabulous 60-minute interactive audio/video slideshow detailing 20 centuries of fascinating history. And all for a fiver.
This is now. Joining the European Community in 1986 proved the masterstroke for Lisbon as funding brought massive investment, the fruits of which are only being seen now. The Expo World Fair was held there in 1998 while the 2004 European Football Championships were a resounding success. 2006 saw the continuation of major development projects throughout the city, from the reopening of the Praça de Touros (Lisbon’s bullring) to ongoing work on the metro system, and, most importantly, building rehab in the Alfama, the oldest district in the city.
Today, the place is teeming with tourists and bustling with life. There’s fine food at every turn, flea markets attract thousands of tourists every year while fado, the country’s traditional folk music, spills out onto the streets. You could do a lot worse than grabbing a chair, a glass of ginjinha (a local sour cherry liquor), and sitting in any one of the city’s squares taking in this most enchanting atmosphere.
The place has an identity and a character that makes it so appealing. While you could be dropped into a fair amount of European cities and not differentiate one from the next, Lisbon has a unique feel about it.
It’s chic, pokey, less crowded, and cheaper than most of the other ‘mainstream’ places, it’s got a real hipster vibe about it (check out the LX Factory on Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103), but it’s not all perfect and if it’s a ‘sitting and being’ trip you’re after, you’ll probably be disappointed because with the city perched on the side of a hill, there’s no escaping the fact that you’ll be out of breath from time to time — though hauling yourself up to any height (such as São Jorge Castle) will be worth it. Trust me. Alternatively, just take any funicular that rattles and creaks its way through the backstreets. The city is so small that you’re likely to end up in the same spot anyway.
Don’t come home without spending a day in the imperial neighbourhood of Belém. Kick things off with a coffee and a pastry at the Pasteis de Belém on Rua de Belém 84 (or just follow the crowds). Here you’ll be treated to the city’s finest traders of still-warm custard tarts — the recipe is a century-old secret so don’t even bother asking.
After that, pop next door to the defining structure of Portugal’s Age of Discoveries, the Unesco-listed Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. The monastery is one of the oldest structures in Lisbon having survived the earthquakes, tsunami, and fires. Colloquially known as “the pepper monastery” it houses the tomb of da Gama along with a host of other famous voyagers, painters, and poets.
If you’re travelling back to the city centre, stop at the LX Factory in Rua Rodrigues de Faria. It looks like an abandoned scrapyard from the outside, what with wrought iron gates and shabby doorframes, but this former printing factory is home to unique cafés, restaurants, and shops.
The city is seafood-crazy: from garlic clams to mussels, oysters, lobsters, and their favourite — cod — you won’t be disappointed if fish is your thing. The market at Santo Amaro dock is worth a visit so long as you’ve a strong stomach.
My favourite place of all is the Alfama district where its steep narrow, cobblestoned backstreets give you a real insight into local life. Here, it’s more traditional. No postcards, no dodgy T-shirts, no fear of getting run over by a funicular.
Lisbon, it’s just different.
Ryanair fly direct from Dublin daily to Lisbon, a service that has only commenced this year and one-way fares start at €29.99. Aer Lingus also operate a direct flight from Cork (Thursday and Monday) and Dublin (daily). Those flights are a little more expensive.
I stayed at the Hotel Fenix Urban on Avenida Antonio Augusto de Aguiar, 14. It’s a perfect location, walking distance to the city centre and to many of the city’s main attractions. And it’s reasonably priced too — given the buffet breakfast that’s included — at around €90 per night. Another superb option is the Independente hostel. Don’t let that last word throw you; this place is a complete gem. Spotlessly clean, very cheap (€12 a night if you book in advance) and in the trendy Bairro Alto district. The food in the hostel’s Decadente restaurant (three courses for a tenner) is some of the best in town.
Where to start. Most of the bars around Praça Luís de Camões are perfect for pre-dinner liveners, but the Bairro Alto district is where you’ll get the best nightclubs and bars. One absolute must is a coffee (or a mojito) on the top floor of the restaurant Flores de Bairro in Bairro Alto.
Pride of place goes to 5 Oceanos (Doca de Santo Amaro) down by the waterfront. The sea bass cooked and served in salt is delightful, while the Restaurante D’Bacallhau and the 1300 Taberna restaurant in the LX Factory on Rua Rodrigues de Faria are no less impressive. Word of advice though, you had better like fish.
Take the antique no. 28 tram (funicular) or a bus to the old town for splendid views from St George’s Castle.
If it’s Tuesday or Saturday, take in the Feira da Ladra (a sprawling flea market).
Set aside half a day to explore Belém. Think pastries and magnificent architecture.
Visit LX Factory. The former printing factory houses some of Lisbon’s most unique cafés, enticing restaurants and bizarre shops.
The Yellow Bus Tour. Swallow your pride, save yourself the hassle and just get on it.
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