Luxembourg is a tiny territory that’s big on charm
YOU have got to be kidding me, I thought to myself when I saw the tiny aeroplane on the tarmac, evoking memories of white knuckle flights to the Aran Islands as a child. I was almost ready to turn back and go home. After all, what was so great about Luxembourg? Wasn’t it all just investment banks and MEPs? I was probably going to hate it.
I could not have been more mistaken. From the moment I stepped on to the plane, and was handed a sucky sweet and a (free!) sandwich by the smiling air-hostess, Luxembourg surprised me with its charm and hospitality. Some of the clichés are true, of course — Luxembourg holds one of the three seats of the European Union’s main institutions and 45% of its population are foreigners, attracted to the city by its thriving business culture. Yet there is so much more to the city, and the country, than that.
The city itself is tiny, not surprising given the country is only the size of Munster, which lends itself perfectly to a short weekend break as it is so easily explored on foot. I started my Saturday morning with a trip to the food and antique markets around the Place Gullaume II, an area that reminded me of Paris with its interlinking squares, bistros, and restaurants.
The markets sell everything from fresh fruit and vegetables, an indigenous fruit liquor, the traditional pâté of the region to antique dolls and patterned porcelain ware. If that’s not quite your thing, then hit Rue Philippe II or the Grand Rue where you can choose from the extensive selection of shops and boutiques, whether your budget is more Chanel or H&M.
The old part of the city, similarly to many European cities, consists of narrow cobbled streets and little alleyways; the pale coloured sandstone and slate roofs giving it a medieval feel. However, there are a few things that distinguish Luxembourg from its neighbouring counterparts.
There is the imposing Palace of the Grand Duchy situated in the heart of the old town where the Grand Duke Henri and his wife Marie-Teresa reside, which is open to the public for June and July, a solitary soldier marching up and down outside, ignoring the tourists giggling and taking photos of him. The city also boasts the ‘Corniche’, a promenade which has been described as the ‘most beautiful balcony in Europe’, where you can enjoy a panoramic view over the lower town (Grund) and the nearby valleys. From here you can also explore the caves that were used to fortify the city in times of war, the Casemates, which are the world’s longest underground passageways.
After a much needed sugar fix at the Chocolate House on Rue du Marché aux Herbes I decided to check out the MUDAM Museum of Modern Art, which is located in the lesser known modern area of the city. Housed in an incredible building designed by the world famous LM Pei, (he of the controversial glass pyramid at the Louvre) MUDAM was built on the site of an ancient fort, and perfectly marries the history of the fortress with the modernity of the museum. I loved it, and could have spent hours wandering around in the three storey building with its collection of more than 200 works by over 100 artists.
As distances are so short, it seemed foolish not to travel outside of the city, and I made my way to the Moselle region. The Moselle river runs along the Luxembourg-German border for 39km in length, and the surrounding valleys are breathtakingly beautiful.
The region is famed for its wineries, particularly its white wines such as Riesling, Pinot and Auxerrois, and its version of sparkling wine, ‘Crémant’. If you consider yourself a wine aficionado, I would recommend the guided tour of the Caves St Martin, underground galleries that run for almost 1km and offer a free tasting at the end! You can also purchase bottles of the local wine to bring home, at notably cheaper prices than in Ireland.
I stayed in the Hotel de l’Ecluse, a small hotel with only 35 rooms, each one with its own balcony, either overlooking the wineries to the back, or the Moselle river. The hotel is an interesting mix of ecologically sound materials and plush geometric shapes and colours, and its restaurant, Pier 29, is deservedly popular for its emphasis on fresh, locally sourced food.
Since The Ardennes Region was less than a 50-minute drive away, I travelled to the picturesque village of Vianden, a place of such beauty with its watchtowers and cloisters, I began to understand why Victor Hugo chose this particular place as a political refuge in 1891.
There was even a medieval castle towering above us, Vianden Castle, which is a national heritage site. Constructed between the 11th and 14th centuries on the foundations of a Roman fort and a Carolingian refuge, the castle is a joy to investigate.
I rented an audio-guide at the gate, working my way from the base of the castle to the towers, pretending to be a 12th century Princess as I marvelled at the views.
There are other attractions in the area such as Luxembourg’s only ski lift, which starts on the far side of the river by the tourist board and travels to a hill overlooking the castle. Not for the fainthearted, or those afraid of heights!
The National Museum of Military History is also in the area, and is teeming with memorabilia as the Ardennes was the location for the Battle of the Bulge during the Second World War. I was expecting to be a little bored, but the guided tour by the enthusiastic and passionate manager of the museum, resulted in this being an unexpected highlight of my weekend.
Luxair Airlines operates its new Dublin-Luxembourg route on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays for the 2014 summer season. Flights start at €140. See www.luxair.lu
Staying in the city is cheaper at the weekends due to the mass exodus of all those who work in the city during the week. The Luxembourg City Hostel offers dorm rooms from €23. The Best Western Plus Grand Hotel Victor Hugo is a good mid-range option, and for those who want to really treat themselves, the five star Le Place d’Armes Hotel is what dreams are made of.
Getting around Luxembourg is also affordable, as the public transport here is so cheap, with day tickets for bus/train use throughout the country costing just €4.
The Luxembourg card offers amazing value, at €11 per adult, giving free access to all museums and tourist attractions.
The city boasts the most Michelin starred restaurants per capita in the world, and the Ilôt Gastronomique area in Luxembourg is a one-stop place for delicious food. The national dish ‘judd mat gaardebounen’ — smoked pork smothered in a creamy sauce with potato and broad beans was offered up at Am Tiirmschen restaurant, while nearby El Companero was heaving with locals looking for good music and reasonable tapas. If you’re a vegetarian, AM14 is a must.
If it is nightlife you’re after, check out the bars around the grand Ducal palace. Cafe Le Palais, Cafe go Ten and Urban Bar are particularly popular. The Tourism Board told me that city district of Grund & Clausen are headquarters of Luxembourg’s night life with lots of English and Irish pubs.
* For more information, log onto: www.visitluxembourg.com
Falcon has late summer offers from Cork, Dublin and Shannon airports to various European destinations from between €369 and €489.
The deals are available between August 25 and 30, details of which are available on www.falconholidays.ie or 1850 45 35 45
Insight Vacations has launched a 2015/16 USA and Canada programme to include 16 premium and luxury escorted holidays. One of the specials on offer is a 22-day ’America the Beautiful’ spanning 13 states from Los Angeles to New York. Details: www.insightvacations.com or 1800 98 98 98.
Etihad’s love affair with Dublin continues, following the introduction of links between Ireland and Perth in Australia, via Abu Dhabi. Perth is now the company’s fourth Australian gateway and is already a hit with the Etihad’s Irish customer base. Details on www.etihad.com
www.GoHop.ie currently has deals on Asia, with specials to Malaysia, Burma and Thailand.
Fourteen-day tours range between €2,280 and €2,450. Visit www.Gohop.ie or call GoHop.ie on 01-2412389.
Crystal Summer continues to have departures to Garda in Italy, although the sunshine tempts people to stay home. Prices ex-Dublin for seven nights half board in the Eden Hotel start at €699 and two weeks are available from €999. Call 01-6733839 or visit www.crystalsummer.ie
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