Edinburgh: easy on the eye and a joy to navigate

WITHIN a couple of hours of my first visit to Edinburgh, it became clear this was a really visitor-friendly city.

Compact and brimming with an offbeat history, it is enclosed by seven hills, as well as the Pentland and Allermuir Hills, and then also the sea.

Supposedly a royal decree imposed building height restrictions to maintain the view from the Queen’s Scottish residence at Holyroodhouse Palace. But maybe that was just independence talk, which was everywhere amongst locals, less than a year out from that big vote.

Somehow, Edinburgh seemed small and big — restrained by geography but with a large centre full of things to do. Grid planning in the New Town, and sympathetic colour and style planning rules for buildings, make it very easy on the eye and a joy to navigate.

However, Edinburgh is not a cheap city. I booked two affordable accommodation options. Edinburgh Youth Hostel (Leith Street) was £50 a night. Clean and modern, it is filled with plenty of over 25s.

I’d also prebooked my first Airbnb&experience (Hopetoun Street). What a spot this was for £61 a night. From the pictures on the website, it seemed too good to be true: penthouse just around the corner from the hostel, with four poster beds, three balconies, gorgeous furniture all finished to a very high end. In reality, it was probably better than the pictures. So add on an outdoor balcony firepit, impeccable vintage maps of the city, free wifi, even a telescope for stargazing. This was far better than any sort of mainstream accommodation option, coming as it did with homely touches such as cooking facilities and late night tipple cabinet. All of this cut down on costs, while host Stephen Moffat was very welcoming, informative and easy going.

There are unavoidable places people throng to: the Castle, the Royal Mile, the Old Town and for kids Camera Obscura. Of all these standard bearers, a trek up to Arthurs Seat provides spectacular views of the city and surrounds.

An exception to the high prices are its museums and galleries — often free and usually of a high standard. The National Museum (Chamber Street, free) is like a tailored-to-Scotland version of London’s Science and National History Museums. Though scaled down compared to the southern versions, it still feels epic, with huge installations in massive rooms. Almost next door I wandered into the Talbot Rice Gallery (free) where I caught a great fun Nam June Paik retrospective, where one learns where edgy pop art came from.

If you want to get a real feel for the city’s deeply idiosyncratic history, you can step into, and meander around, a few more macabre and kooky locations. These include numerous Graveyards (try Greyfriars Kirkyard, Candlemaker Row) caves like Gilmerton Cove (Drum Street) and the body snatching tunnels of Burke and Hare fame. Tours, run by Mercat Tours on the North Side of the Cowgate (£9) are in as apt a setting for a catastrophic, real life historical experience as you can get, while also retaining a darkly humorous twist. Above ground The Surgeon’s Hall (Nicolson Street, £5) explores the strange but undeniable significance Edinburgh has had in pathological studies — in other words, you get to see the uses to which those snatched bodies were put. Go early in the day if you are squeamish. Venture just 10km out and Rosslyn Chapel awaits you.

Parts of Edinburgh’s Old and New Town seem overflowing with eateries. There are lots of big windows facing onto the streets, where well-heeled 30-somethings hang out. But amongst the melee, I found some more down to earth, options, like the excellently unassuming well priced Italian Caciopepe (Hanover Street). Don’t expect cream in your carbonara here.

But if it’s fish you are after, this city is your oyster, especially the sea food speciality Fishers in the City (around the corner from Caciopepe on Thistle Street) and a host of others within seconds of each other. I tried Cafe Marlane and Bon Vivante (both Thistle Street, the latter for drinks too) and Chez Jules (Hanover Street), none of which will disappoint, but will empty your wallet somewhat. But then, there are five Michellin-starred restaurants in a city of near 2,000 eateries.

I also took a trip 30 minutes south of the city, and stopped off at Whitmuir organic farm, shop, bakery, gallery and licenced cafe (www.whitmuirtheorganicplace.co.uk). Check out the upcoming courses too — really innovative offerings. A couple of choice cuts of their Galloway beef were selected and cooked back at base&.

Last word to the most heart-warming eating place imaginable. For day time eating (10.30am-3.30pm), the Engine Shed (Holyrood) is unbeatable. This has a superb range of great value hearty and uber fresh vegetarian food, an in-house bakery and even tofu making business. It too is mostly organic and a favourite of writer Ian Rankin’s. And yet, it’s even more right on than this. The Engine Shed trains and then finds work placements for people with learning difficulties — the very staff that cook for and serve you. If ever there was sumptuous food, in every sense, this is it.

Flights:

Daily direct flights with Aer Lingus/Aer Arann from Dublin, Cork and Shannon (except Wednesdays). Ryanair direct from Dublin daily.

Best of Edinburgh

Best coffee: Artisan Roast (Bruntsfield Place and Broughton Street).

Best vista: Calton Hill (easy walk) or Arthurs Hill (moderate walk).

Best pint sized pub: HalfWay House (Fleshmarket Close).

Best seaside fish’n’chips: Portobello (20 minutes on bus #26 or #15).

Best Oysters: Cafe Royal (West Register Street).

Best Interior: The Dome (George Street — try the afternoon tea).