A Clare winner for a getaway
It’s a lot different today but many of the essential qualities of Clare are still the same. One thing that certainly hasn’t changed is the warm nature of the Clare people. The waves are still there and you can still jump into them, only now people have found out that you can have even more fun if you get a surfboard and ride on top of them as they roll in. The golf that my father was so fond of is still there too — with even more golf courses available today. There are about 10 championship courses in the county, all set amidst magnificent scenery.
Depending on which way you enter Clare, the first impression is invariably a good one. You can arrive by sea, by lake or by car ferry from Tarbert. The motorway coming from the south brings you smoothly into the heart of the county where Ennis is perfectly situated. Entering Clare’s county town gives you an immediate sense of how the modern and the traditional dance their virtual dance in Clare, fusing their articulations into one harmonious vibe.
Ennis is a happy, industrialised, traditional, clean and tidy kind of place: the envy of most Irish town councillors, having seemingly managed to find something close to the elusive notion of the ultimate life-work balance. Historically, it’s a market town and one in which the friendly citizens adapt and move on according to the economic circumstances. It has always had industry nearby and it was the first town in Ireland (and the only one to date) to be crowned Information Age Town. It won the title of Ireland’s Tidiest Town in 2006 — a particularly impressive feat for a large town and a stroll through Parnell Street or any of its neatly-maintained mediaeval streets will attest to the fact that the tradition of tidiness was not just a once-off effort.
Heading for the Burren is an experience that every Irish person should have done at least once in their lives and if you haven’t witnessed the eerie limestone lunar landscape for yourself, then it’s past time to go.
To the south and south-west of the county, the resorts of Kilrush and Kilkee beckon. Kilkee is the epitome of the Victorian bucket-and-spade seaside resort, complete with boardwalk, streets that bubble with fun-filled atmosphere the whole summer long and great facilities for families.
Farther up the west coast, it all gets even more traditional and more dramatic. The golf-and-surfing centre of Lahinch gives way to a meandering coastline that includes Doolin village and the Cliffs of Moher.
To the east of the county, however, a very different but equally charming part of the world is evident in the villages along the shorelines of Lough Derg. Mountshannon is a case in point, with it unspoilt timeless feel, its amazing public park (it literally is, with a fun maze in the centre) that leads down to a tree-shaded pier and marina where holiday cruisers pull in to avail of the excellent facilities and the welcoming atmosphere. From here too, you can get regular trips to Holy Island with a guided tour.
Clare and music go together like… well, like Clare and music. The two are inseparable and the county has a rich tradition of keeping the best of Ireland’s musical heritage alive and well in a manner that’s not repeated elsewhere in Ireland to quite the same degree.
Cruises Bar in Ennis has long been regarded as one of the Headquarters General for all kinds of traditional music sessions, fleadhs and sing-alongs but has also worked up a powerful tradition in good food as part of the Queen’s Hotel.
The Cloister Restaurant in Abbey Street in Ennis is very much a rising star, with its stunning décor that’s a modern take on an ancient setting, while the food very much reflects this in its variety and quality.
The Long Restaurant in Doonbeg offers a near-Michelin-star level of service in a coastal setting, while Doolin farther up the coast has become something of culinary hot-spot with the likes of Cullinan’s Seafood Restaurant, Roadford House and O’Connor’s Pub all vying for attention in one small and highly musical village.
If camping is your thing, there are currently five campsites to choose from in the county; namely Corofin Village (Corofin), Green Acres (Doonaha, near Carrigaholt), Lakeside Holiday Park (Mountshannon), Nagles (Doolin) and O’Connors Riverside (Doolin). All have very attractive locations, although I do have a soft spot for Green Acres, with its elevated location overlooking the Shannon Estuary, where a resident school of dolphins is to be found.
For more a more upmarket stay, the incredible achievement that is the resort of Doonbeg is well worth checking out. Built only a decade ago but looking like it has been part of the wild Clare coastline for centuries, the resort is a very special mecca for golfers, but equally for surfers, diners and basically anyone who wants to switch off, relax and get pampered in a backdrop of incredible beauty.
* www.clare.ie: The official tourist website covering the whole county, this is a smart and interactive site with plenty of up-to-the-minute information on all parts and aspects.
* www.visitennis.com: Covering the county town, it’s very user-friendly source of information on Ennis
* www.visitclare.net: Dealing specifically with East Clare, there’s plenty here on places to visit and lakeshore-based activities.
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