Prague-tical magic
He was taken aback when one of the group replied that they were actually on their flight home. A reversal of fortunes, if ever.
Prague seems to have lost its name as a ‘stag/hen party capital’, maybe only because the costly and elaborate pre-nuptial parties are a thing of our distant financial past. It doesn’t mean, however, that the city has shut down. Prague has seen year on year increases in visitors for the last 20 years — bar one in 2002 when floods devastated the city. Numbers visiting the city are almost 5.5 million per annum.
It’s a city which ticks all the boxes for a good city break from cultural sightseeing to a buzzing nightlife; from its street food to fine food; and there always seems to be some sort of festival happening (www.pragueexperience.com/events/events.asp).
With temperatures averaging in the high teens, and peaking in the mid-20s, for the summer months ahead, it’s a nice time to venture around this architectural and cultural wonder. If you required any further argument for an ideal city break then it has to be price, a four-night deal out of Dublin can be had for €219.
Situated in an old economic crossroads, there have been settlements in Prague for more than a millennium, beginning with the old town beneath the castle on the northern riverbank before the new town was developed across the iconic Charles Bridge.
And it’s in good shape too, many shapes in fact — it’s an architectural wonderland, where Baroque nestles next to Gothic just up the street from Cubic and Art Deco.
The prime destination for every tourist has to be Prague Castle, it’s the world’s largest Unesco heritage site at more than 70,000 sq m — the largest enclosed castle complex in the world, allow a day or two for it and the surrounding areas of palaces, gardens and churches.
Which means there is a lot to see and do in Prague, and most of this can be done on foot which is perhaps the best way to experience the city at its best. Alternatively the city has an excellent and very cheap tram service as well as an underground rail system.
Perhaps the best place to start a walking tour is the late-Gothic Powder Tower. Dating from 1475, it was formerly a fortification gate which marked the beginning of the Coronation or Royal road which ends at Prague Castle.
But before passing through, take time to look at the adjacent Municipal House, a majestic Art-Nouveau building dating from 1905-1911 with a highly decorative exterior matched by an equally sublime interior. Tours are available but there is also access to the American bar and café. A variety of concerts are also held here nightly, details at www.obecnidum.cz.
A short walk will bring you onto the old town square — the city’s oldest, overlooked by the 14th-16th century town hall with Gothic towers.
The square is lined with on-street cafés and restaurants, stay for a while, it’s tourist central with street performers, occasional festival events and food stands. It features an astronomical clock at which tourists gather on the hour to watch the display windows that open for a brief 30 seconds.
We had dinner here the first night — in a traditional Czech restaurant; a dark basement lined with the heads of stuffed animals and a stuffed bear in the corner. The food — five types of meat; duck, sausage, ham and others with two types of sauerkraut and three types of dumplings … it wasn’t at all nice, to my palate. Tourist error.
We tried a recommended restaurant the next night — it even had a micro-brewery in the basement — Pivovarsky Dum (www.gastroinfo.cz/pivodum). The food was good with an extensive menu. The fun part here is the sample taster platter of beers — they can even be sampled by nose alone, the distinct smell of banana from one; nettle; coffee, sour cherry from others. .
For a lunch treat we had even better national cuisine at Konirna (just past the tower at the castle end of Charles Bridge, right then left), a bit on the pricey side, but well worth it, delicious. It also has a nice courtyard at the front on a quiet square, perfect for a break from the tourist throng. (www.konirna.eu)
Mark Twomey travelled to Prague courtesy of Sunway Holidays and stayed in the four-star Courtyard by Marriott Hotel. Sunway is operating flights to Prague from Dublin Jun 3-Sept 23. Seat only including 20kg checked in baggage and taxes starts from just €56 one way. Four-night packages including three-star accommodation starts from €219pp. Four nights including flights to the four-star Courtyard by Marriott Hotel starts from €269. www.sunway.ie; phone Sunway 01-2886828
The first point of travel for most visitors will be from the airport, best advice is to pre-book a taxi online where prices average €22-€24 to almost any city centre hotel. Otherwise agree a price with a taxi driver at the terminal before getting into the car. There are also a number of bus services which are the budget option.
The Czech Republic does not use the euro so it’s advisable to organise some kroner before travelling — One euro will get you about CZK25; It could take some banks up to a week to order it, but the foreign exchange desks at Dublin airport normally have some available fort travellers.
I stayed at the four-star Courtyard by Marriott Hotel at Flora, close to the city centre with a shopping centre and iMax cinema across the street. It’s serviced by tram and underground and just a 20-minute downhill walk to Wenceslas Square past some nice green areas to soak up some sun.
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