Paris in autumn, mais oui...

YOU can arrive in a city any number of ways — by plane, train or automobile. But the actual feeling of having arrived — in the zingy, energy-boosting, can’t-help-but-grin-inanely sense of the word — is altogether different. It takes a something special to elicit that.
In Paris, that feeling comes the moment we step off the train at Châtelet. Having flown in on the Aer Lingus red-eye for a last-minute, 36-hour visit, L and I have been slow to shake off the early morning stodginess. But then the RER doors open. A surreal whiff of freshly-baked bread takes us by the nostrils. We float up the escalator, into the City of Light.