Opulent, but intimate
From the main road, Apprentice star and Renault supremo Bill Cullen and Jackie Lavin’s hotel looks less five-star hotel and more cosy coach house. However, when you swing around to the main entrance it screams wannabe with its faux turret and an incongruous dolmen-style water feature that sits plonk in the middle of a circular LA-style valet collection point. However it’s what happens inside a hotel that really matters and in the area that matters most — service — the hotel nailed it.
I loved the old part of the Muckross Park. The lobby area that leads onto the main road entrance is wonderfully cosy and when we arrived on a wet Friday evening, we just wanted to pull up by the fire, with its array of newspapers and comfy armchairs. The hotel has been trading since the late 18th century and past guests included playwright George Bernard Shaw, who liked to spend his summers there reading and wandering around Killarney National Park. The hotel sits plonk in the middle of the 25,000-acre park and so there is a big urge to get out and discover it. We were offered drinks as soon as we signed in at the main desk, and some of the hotel’s fudge. When we climbed the stairs to our ample suite, we found a bucket of champagne, two glasses, and a selection of chilled fruit and homemade chocolates. Everywhere you looked, the hotel was encouraging you to sit back, chill out, and just enjoy yourself.
Our suite was enormous; my husband was adamant that it was bigger than the ground-floor of our own house. In the living room, the L-shaped sofa was big enough for a family of eight to sprawl out for the night watching the 50” television screen. On the mahogany dining room table sat the most bizarre Derry-naflan chalice-type ornament. Again this must be pandering to the older American guests — always sucker for a bit of Celtic embellishment. Every room had a television including the bathroom, which had a set in the wall over the jacuzzi.
I’m a coeliac and even when I ring ahead and warn about my dietary needs, I’ve got used to having well-known supermarket brands of gluten-free bread thrown on my plate. Not here. In fact, the homemade gluten-free bread, with added pecan, was so good that I asked twice if it really was gluten-free. I had my best EVER breakfast at Muckross. These guys really know how to do an eggs Benedict, too. For dinner, we ate at the adjoining Molly D’arcys bar. Paul tried the burger and chips, which he described as good quality but not cheap at €15.50. I had the slow-roasted Kerry pork belly with caramelised apples and Sneem black pudding. This was rich food and I wondered if it needed the thud of pudding.
Night two was a more formal affair as we fine-dined at the GB Shaw restaurant. For starters we shared the pan-fried scallops with confit pork and carrott three ways — fantastic. Main course was pan-fried turbot with a chive vinaigrette while Paul, despite 120 minutes of horse riding through the park, couldn’t face up to the 24oz rib eye steak and settled for the 16oz 28-day-aged T-bone steak. Both were good; my turbot was very buttery, but the clear winner of the night was the starter.
We couldn’t resist horse riding around the National Park. A car picks you up at the hotel and drives you over to Killarney Riding Stables. Hats and boots are supplied and for two hours we trotted though the miles of heather and gorse taking in the beauty around us. Later in the weekend, we made a trip to the spa where we both tried the facials. The improvement was immediately visible. My skin felt hydrated afterwards, like it had really had a deep clean. Our feet, shoulders and hands were massaged, too, all using rose-based products. After that it was off to the solar suites where we lay dozing, reading magazines on heated thermal loungers. It was bliss.
After dinner on Saturday night, we wandered into the Monks Bar. The other guests had all fallen under the charm of the piano bar closed to GB Shaws. However, Monks is one sexy bar. With its dark wooden panelling, soft leather settees, and oversized shaggy cushions, we meant to stay for one drink. Five cocktails later, we were still there in front of the fire.
There are great deals. A two-night midweek break can be picked up for €199 per person or €229 at weekends. This includes breakfasts both days, dinner on one evening, and complimentary access to the thermal suite, outdoor hot tub, and vitality pool at the Cloisters Spa.
Tel: 064-6623400; email: info@muckrosspark.com.
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