Northern light
East Cork, thanks to Fota Wildlife Park, the Ballymaloe Empire and Titanic’s 100th anniversary, is gaining ground.
Cork City has been visited by the Queen and ranked as one of the world’s Top 10 cities by Lonely Planet.
And then there is north Cork, sitting in a corner like some middle child.
Despite its mountains, its market towns and the magnificent River Blackwater, the region has never seemed able (or been deemed able to) catch the touristic imagination like its coastal counterparts.
Look closely, however, and the gems start to glisten. Think of Longueville House, the Ballyhoura Mountains, Bridgetown Priory, Doneraile Park.
Another could be Springfort Hall, the earliest known owner of whose lands, Lord Roche, acquired them after the Norman invasion.
“Elegance in the country since 1169,” gushes the website. I’m intrigued.
Turning off the N20 at Newtwopothouse, winding my way up a tree-lined avenue splashed with daffodils, the country elegance is certainly present and correct. A sparklingly white house shows off its curvy bays, mature trees frame it in a luxuriant setting — expectations are duly raised.
Unfortunately, aside from an impressive dinner and two richly atmospheric spaces in the dining and drawing rooms, initial impressions are not consistently matched inside.
When I arrive, there is nobody at the reception desk. After waiting several minutes, I get checked into No 27, one of 49 rooms, located at the end of a long, soulless corridor. As I walk, motion-activated lights take a second or two to flicker into action, illuminating the deflating route.
When I think of a country house hotel, I think of old-world luxury, nicely-judged antiques, thick drapes, homemade scones, walls adorned with quirky works. Springfort Hall’s suites may offer that, but No. 27 doesn’t. The walls are bare save for a small photo print of a nameless beach. An old CRT (Cathode Ray Tube) TV rests on a stand, and the room is colder than is comfortable on a chilly evening.
The bed, I am happy with — it’s big and gives a good sleep. But the bathroom feels strangely bare, and not in a slick, minimalist sense. Duke & Lyle products are fine, but the shower’s water temperature falls short of piping hot. It’s a fair room for the rates on offer, just nothing memorable.
The best thing about Springfort Hall is the cooking of Bryan McCarthy.
Sitting by a bay window in the Lime Tree Restaurant, all it takes is a starter of Jack McCarthy’s black pudding with glazed pork belly (€9) to put me back in the zone. Served on black slate, the pudding is rich and creamy, releasing a puff of heat when I cut it open. The pork is tender, shreddy, and a swathe of apple purée and cubes of apple jelly complete a very well-balanced dish.
Mains include a 12-hour feather blade of Hereford beef, roast wild pheasant and market fish of the day, and supplier information is meticulously listed. I go for the roast monkfish (€27), served with chick peas, Gubbeen chorizo and fresh herbs with Tipperary wild mushrooms. It doesn’t have the wow-factor of my starter, but overall, the plush room and ambitious food are a striking combination.
The Lime Tree recently won an AA Rosette, which makes a four-course menu priced at €29.95 on Mondays and Tuesdays look like nifty value. A dinner and B&B combo is a good bet here.
Springfort Hall’s drawing room is another sumptuous space. Its golden drapes and inviting settees surround an oak and marble fireplace throwing out a whack of cosy heat, and there’s a flourish of painted stuccowork — red grapes and green leaves wrapped along a golden vine.
It’s crying out for a good book or a lazy afternoon tea (and there’s free Wi-Fi too).
Otherwise, you won’t see any guests swanning about in white robes or heading for the pool here.
But you can go fishing, take several local walks, or have a flutter at Cork Racecourse.
A short spin up the road from Springfort Hall is Doneraile Forest Park, a 450-acre estate sprawling around a Georgian pile once owned by the St Ledger family.
Herds of Sika deer, a children’s playground and a 5.5km boundary walk are just some of the free amenities.
Mallow is also worth a mosey, and though Cork’s northern parts lack the coastal oomph and touristic swagger of West and east Cork, they do boast one of the rising stars of Irish tourism in Ballyhoura. The Ballyhoura Mountain Biking Trail is a world-class facility — and super fun.
See discoverireland.ie/cork or ballyhouracountry.com for more.
Springfort Hall is currently offering two nights B&B with one dinner from €89, midweek. At weekends, the equivalent offer is €99pp. Call 022 21278 or visit springfort-hall.com.
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