An island retreat

THE Gran Hotel, Atlantis Bahia Real, in Correlejo, Fuerteventura, has a little known claim to fame, information on which is generally kept in-house — unless you had heard the rumours and asked.

The “secret” relates to the revered Queen of Spain, Sofia, who not long ago paid a visit to the hotel and declined the use of the Royal Suite, opting instead for the less flush comfort of a large double room, albeit a classy one with wonderful sea views out to the Island of Lobos and beyond to Lanzarote.

Queen Sofia was in the neighbourhood to visit a sanctuary for injured hammerhead turtles, and for a little relaxation in five star-plus comfort, which is what the Gran Hotel is about, and it didn’t stop her wanting to mix each evening with the 400 or so guests in the main buffet restaurant.

As for that buffet restaurant, it probably is close to the last word in mass-dining. Last year, a travel writer from a British newspaper visited and enthused so much about the food that he dedicated over half his praise-ridden column to the gastronomic delights on offer throughout this grand property. I might follow suit.

To break with luxurious familiarity, we relented once to enjoy an evening in the Spanish speciality restaurant, tempted by the unique tapas menu that is served in football style — a 4-4-3 combination of starters, main courses and desserts.

For those on half board, that particular menu can replace the evening buffet without any additional charge, or one can upgrade to a la carte for something around €20. A change is as good as a rest, they say, although the quality of fare on offer in the buffet restaurant is such that not many move on more than once a week.

The breakfast buffet is as fine a dining experience as you will experience anywhere, with a staggering range of cold meats, vegetable, hot meat, egg, pasta dishes, pastries and breads, complemented for some by the almost mandatory bucks fizz and an eye popping array of freshly squeezed juices prepared in front of you right throughout the three hours of morning service.

It’s fair to say that the dining experience was such that even those with the heartiest of appetites would be challenged to face anything more than a flimsy sandwich snack at lunch time to allow for digestion and keep room for evening feasts of epic proportions.

It was ironic that in between heavy meals, many guests opted for a vigorous work-out in the sumptuously appointed spa that takes up 30,000 or more square feet. But if some were pumping iron and sweating on the treadmill, others took the relaxation bit to the limit, in the hydrotherapy pool or through one of the many beauty treatments on offer.

Overall, you see, this Atlantis Bahia Real is very much about relaxation on an island and resort (Correlejo) that, in any event, oozes class.

If news of Fuerteventura’s beauty took a long time to reach this writer it sank in within minutes of arrival, en-route from the airport to Correlejo, in fact, as we drove past the magnificent and widely hailed sand dunes treasure that are a must-see attraction for anyone visiting the island.

Arrival at the hotel merely confirmed the suspicion that this was going to be a considerably better break than others. The ambience, the laid-back and welcoming attitude of the staff, the tasteful decor and luxury finish and facilities of our room, plus those sea views to die for, sent us into chill-out mode instantly.

It helps when the sun shines, and our visit in late October brought a mere trickle of rain one night when we were already sunned-out. A bit of cloud the following day gave respite from the temptation of overdoing it poolside two days in succession and was a welcome relief to be honest.

Of course it rains occasionally in Fuerteventura, and the wind can whip up a bit at times, but that’s all the better for those who travel there to take advantage of excellent surfing and water sport opportunities.

I struck up a conversation with an English barman one day and asked him about the weather.

“Well,” he said, “I’ve lived here five years and I reckon I’ve only been in long trousers a couple of times a year.

“The locals might feel a bit cold in January, but it’s still a guaranteed 20 degrees or so.”

For those who like slumming on the beach, the hotel provided loungers and towels free of charge for clients in a private area right outside the property, a stone’s throw from poolside and a chic outdoor day-time restaurant.

It tended to be quiet at evening time, with entertainment limited to the foyer lounge/piano bar area, but those looking for more exhaustive night-time entertainment don’t have to go far.

A daily mission was to wander along the beach for 20 minutes, past quaint white sandy coves, into the very tasteful town of Correlejo. At night time the town comes even more alive in the dozens upon dozens of competitively priced restaurants and street side and plaza-style pubs and cafe bars.

For those who wish to do so, it’s possible to stay up late in one or more of four or five recommended night clubs/discos; for those who don’t, it’s still possible to enjoy a good night out with a good meal and a few drinks without breaking the bank.

Oh, and at €3, even the taxi ride home won’t break you either.

Flights

You can fly from various Irish airports to Fuerteventura, depending on the time of the year. Several top tour operators offer packages to the new gem of the Canary Islands. We flew out of Cork with Ryanair on a Saturday with respectable departure and arrival times. We paid what we figure to be a great price of €355 for two — albeit with long advance booking time — and that included one 20 kg checked baggage which had to be slightly stripped on the way out to avoid Ryanair’s notoriously excess baggage charges.

Accommodation and food

It certainly was first world stuff at the Gran Hotel, Atlantis Bahia Real, both in terms quality of accommodation, food and facilities. Expect to pay a nightly rate of anything between €196 (per room to include two people) for bed and breakfast (pool view) and €306 (per room to include two people) half board in Deluxe rooms (sea view) late January on. Details on www.atlantishotels.com

What to see

The Dunes, for sure, but it’s well worth strolling along the beach on the way into the main resort of Correlejo, and if staying on a bed and breakfast basis it allows latitude to stop off for lunch or dinner in any one of the quite exciting looking restaurants dotted along the coast line.

What to do

Go into Correlejo at night, rest awhile in a decent restaurant and take your pick from any one of a number of fish specialities near the old town.