A slice of history
Originally built in the 18th century as a private dwelling, it was first turned into a hotel in 1895.
Among other claims to fame (or infamy), the hotel acted as Sinn Féin campaign headquarters during the war of Independence, was ransacked by the Black and Tans, the Banquet Hall was once a jail, it may be haunted and beneath the carpeted floors are dungeons. And to add a touch of glamour, the reception area was once a cocktail bar used by Pan Am staff in the 1940s.
We arrived on a miserably wet and windy Friday night in December, and after a brief parking struggle we were enveloped in the warmth of the hotel, immediately struck by the vibrant atmosphere.
The dining room and lounge bar are located close to reception and there was plenty of people traffic.
The hotel has 105 bedrooms, including superior rooms and suites, but the intimacy of the reception area makes it seem like a smaller, more exclusive retreat. The reception staff were very apologetic about our parking difficulties, and a porter kindly carried our luggage to our first floor bedroom.
Our room was perfect, decorated in restful shades of green with the most comfortable King-sized bed in the world, and abounding in pillows.
There are few things as relaxing as sitting on a comfy bed, watching a flat screen TV (switching channels to avoid negative budget talk) and helping oneself to delicious grapes from the complementary fruit bowl. That is, unless it is the following morning and you are sitting on the same bed flicking through channels while enjoying your delicious breakfast, served courtesy of room service.
The hotel exudes warmth, with cosy sofas and chairs arranged around open fires, begging for you to sit and read your paper. The décor is simple, not too fussy, with a number of very interesting prints on the walls, which turn out to be part of a private collection. We ate in the formal dining room, The O’Brien Room, which has a careful, almost old world charm that immediately made me think of afternoon tea, with cake, crustless sandwiches and tea served from a silver teapot. We had a fine three course dinner in the almost full dining room, an excellent testament to the quality of the food.
The layout of the rooms downstairs reflects the history of the hotel with an efficient use of space and not the almost barn-like proportions preferred in more modern hotel design.
There is so much to do — Ennis is within an hour’s drive of the magnificent Cliffs of Moher and spectacular seas that might reveal leaping dolphins or breaching whales, villages echoing with traditional music and of course no visit would be complete without a pilgrimage to Father Ted Crilly’s house, located near the village of Kilnaboy. Ennis itself is a revelation, and according to one shop assistant it is the boutique capital of Ireland. If it is clothes shopping that takes your fancy, you won’t be disappointed and even if you are financially embarrassed after Christmas you can still indulge yourself in an orgy of window shopping.
The main streets radiate like spokes from O’Connell Square, and medieval laneways give the town the connectivity and permeability that makes it a great pedestrian experience. In fact, O’Connell Street has been named in the Project for Public Spaces as one of the top 60 great places in the world, thanks to its walkability and mixture of shops, pubs and cafes.
For more information visit www.flynnhotels.com or call the Old Ground Hotel on 065-6828127.
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