Salivate over hot Turkey

THINK Turkey and the standard images of turbans, complex relationships with the Greeks and delightful sweets usually come to mind, often zooming into view on the back of a flying carpet.

The reality, however, is that this ancient bridge between Europe and Asia offers far more than the stereotypical scenes you might expect. And in the current economic climate, what is available comes with a budget which is increasingly appealing, compared to the traditional sun holiday destinations of Portugal, Spain and the surrounding islands.

On arrival in Turkey you are likely to be struck by the searing heat, with temperatures already in the low 30s by May and rising to 45 in July and August.

As a result, the pools and air-conditioning on offer at the array of hotels available in tourist hotspots like Bodrum, Izmir and Kusadasi can be a welcome oasis while you adapt.

Hotels in Kusadasi and Izmir generally offer a more family-friendly atmosphere, with the evening entertainment ranging from wonderfully well-meaning to frustratingly over-the-top, depending on your mood and the local entertainer’s Elvis impression.

If it is relaxation you are after, the Venosa Beach and Spa Resort in Altinkum (which literally translates as “golden sands”) is a perfect place to soak in the holiday environment. Approximately 80 kilometres from Bodrum airport, the lavish five-star hotel provides luxury at a reasonable price, ranging from private beaches to jet-skiing lessons, saunas and Turkish baths.

Restaurants from around the world will also keep you or your children from having to venture outside, but should you give into the temptation, another reason to visit this part of Turkey is just a bus trip away.

Local excursions are the name of the game while on holiday in this part of Europe, which was once the centre of civilisation, with the landscape peppered with astonishing archaeological finds wherever you care to look — including small innocuous-looking circles on the ground, which almost 2,000 years ago were secret symbols of christianity.

Among these are the Temple of Apollo, a site once considered in the ancient world to be only second to Delphi, and the ancient city of Ephesus. Despite pre-dating even the Roman empire, Ephesus — which includes the Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world — has stayed remarkably well preserved.

As a tour destination, the site, which stretches far into the distance and can allow a would-be Indiana Jones a full day’s worth of adventure (without snakes, thankfully), also provides glimpses of how similar our ancestors were to us.

An example is that of the still-preserved library in the heart of the city.

While it did stock a huge quantity of reading material, it also included a hidden tunnel to some of the less PC areas of the former city, allowing the more clued-in male citizens to sneak away to the local flesh-pots without the knowledge of their wives. Books, it seems, were never more popular than in ancient Turkey.

Those less interested in being dragged to the sites — and, presumably, the lengthy list of pre-Socratic philosopher sites of ancient Greece scattered throughout southern Turkey — can pull a “library” trick of their own after a trip to these archaeological ruins. Bodrum — complete with the symbol of modern times, Starbucks — is a short distance away.

Amid the clutter of shops, bazaars — haggle, people, but just remember how bad a Turkish jail could be if you haggle too much — coffee stores and restaurants are equally beautiful views of the Aegean Sea.

For those who can afford it, booking a cruise on one of many small but luxurious yachts in the ports can be another unexpected treat.

Also recommended are treks to legitimate Turkish carpet makers who will show you the tell-tale-ways to know if a rug is really silk or just plain cotton — and then try to sell it to you, naturally.

Among the other attractions in the surrounds of the Bodrum-Izmir region are Halicamassus — Europe’s largest open-air disco — and various vineyards on mountain-top villages which make wines from peaches, strawberry and numerous other delights.

Turkey, as Wings Abroad managing director Tayfun Gokpinar is keen to stress, wants to find a niche in the already crowded sun holiday market as an alternative to the usual Irish tourist destinations of Portugal and Spain.

There are certainly reasons for optimism in this regard. Prices are generally far cheaper in the south eastern European nation than Iberia, while the (admittedly safe) thrill of travelling to the cusp of Asia, being woken by the Islamic call to prayer instead of last night’s parties returning home, and scurrying around some of the best preserved archaeological ruins in this part of the world adds significantly to what is on offer.

However, one word of warning: while the Turks are friendly, their attempts at the western European nightlife will not suit everyone.

Areas like Izmir’s “Bar Street” (presumably, like Istanbul/Constantinople, it recently underwent a name-change), and some locals’ overly amorous attitude to young women may appeal to certain tourist groups, but if you are considering travelling to the country as an alternative to the party atmosphere in other destinations, then these areas are best avoided.

But what encourages you to travel to Turkey is likely to ensure you return, if only to read another “library” book.

Travel

Wings Abroad (www.wingsabroad.ie), a fully licensed firm, runs flights from Dublin to Bodrum and Izmir every Sunday, and operates a weekly flight from Izmir to Cork. The company was recently set up by experienced Irish-based tour operator Tayfun Gokpinar.

Where to stay

Choose from locations in Altinkum (the literal translation of which means “golden sands”, and doesn’t lie), Bodrum, Gumbet and Kusadasi. The most expensive hotel is the all-inclusive Venosa Beach Spa and Resort. Week-long packages from €499 in May, €719 in September and October, €829 in June and €1,159 in July and August. All prices are based on an individual sharing a double room and include flights and transfers.

Gulet cruises take travellers from the historic port of Bodrum to a host of small Turkish and Greek islands.

What to do

Ephesus, near Kusadasi, is one of the best-preserved archaeological sites in the world and includes the ruins of The Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Keep an eye out for scrawled ancient half-circle images on the ground – a code used as a secret sign of Christianity almost 2,000 years ago.

The Temple of Apollo, on the Ionian coast, is one of the most impressive sites in the area and dates back to the second millennium BC.

Halicarnassus is Europe’s largest open-air disco and is located on Bodrum’s waterfront.

The House of the Virgin Mary in Ephesus is reputedly where Mary came to live after the death of Jesus.

Where to eat

Bodrum for sure, but the fishing village of Turgutreis — a popular haunt for windsurfers — offers a more relaxed atmosphere.