Feasting, folklore and fire on a Púca trail inspired in part by the words and ways of Manchán Magan
The Púca festival continues until November 1 in Co Meath.
We join Cynthia Simonet, on the eve of Halloween, for a walking tour with a difference.
The historical isn't the focus. Instead, as we wander through Porchfields in Co Trim, she shares with us Irish mythology — by the river she talks about the salmon of knowledge. We learn why we should salute the magpie — did you know he refused a spot on Noah's ark and survived only after a deal with devil? And if you need to get rid of a divil on your back? Throw salt behind your back and catch him in the eye.
Strange, masked supernatural beings join us on the tour, tickling our ears with straw, adding to the otherworldy experience.
Facts are sprinkled through — one old legend likely reflects a solar eclipse. And then, we meet Ireland's first Celt, and he chants as we cross a stone arch, to the 'other world'.
Later Cynthia tells us she was influenced by the words and ways of Manchán Magan — we are all turning, more and more, she believes, to the land, to our shared mythology and spirituality.
Cynthia's Beyond the Veil: The Púca Trail, is part of the Púca Festival. Ireland has long taken credit for Halloween’s origins — over 2000 years ago, Samhain was marked on October 31 to mark the end of the harvest season and the beginning of winter. The belief was that the boundary between the living and the spirit world was fragile on this night, allowing ghosts to cross over.
Communities lit large ceremonial fires to ward off malevolent spirits, and turnips were carved to keep evil spirits at bay. Even barmbrack had its origins on our shores.
America might have taken the concept from Irish emigrants and ran with it, but Fáilte Ireland, still basking in the success of the Wild Atlantic Way as a marketing concept, has at long last, turned its attention to October 31.
They’ve proclaimed Ireland the Home of Halloween, and a programme of feasting, folklore and fire is being showcased all weekend.
Stretching across the country, one of the standouts is Púca, in Trim and Athboy, Co Meath. It is relevant and authentic as a centrepiece — ceremonial fires were a historic tradition every October at the Hill of Ward.
Beginning on Thursday, and continuing until November 1, the music line up includes The Stunning, The Waterboys and Hothouse Flowers. But the highlight is our ancient Halloween traditions, brought to life and reimagined through food, performance, spectacle, music and storytelling.
It’s a unique way to discover the stories and customs behind Hallow'een.
"When light turns to dark and the veil between the worlds of the living and the dead thins, the creatures of Samhain, Ireland’s ancient Halloween tradition, come to life," the festival organisers declare.
"Over four nights, across two festival locations we salute the Halloween spirits through folklore, food, myth and music, and light up the night sky with awe-inspiring fire performances."
Highlights include the Púca Procession in Trim, and the traditional Lighting of the Samhain Fire in Athboy. The Samhain Projection Story lights up Trim Castle by night, telling the story on its ancient walls.
Visitors also enjoy daytime workshops at the Púca Big Top, alongside the festival’s biggest-ever Harvest Market. Spread across Porchfields, there is a shared table for storytelling, and tents with traditional wooden games. As well as walking tours, there are also genealogy workshops, to figure out your own origins. At Mummer Mask Making with the Fingal Mummers, participants can discover the tradition of Samhain disguises and create their own straw covering.
Activities include events with the blacksmith of the Boyne, Tom King, Púca Ogham Carving with Mícheál Potterton of Fiach Rua Timbercraft, and traditional Butter Making with Max Jones of Up There At Last. And there are also genealogy workshops led by members of Accredited Genealogists Ireland.
Straw bales are piled high with pumpkins and púcas for picture opportunities. Visitors and locals alike have embraced this festival — most arrive in full Hallow'een dress up.
It's four days to immerse yourself in Ireland’s folklore, landscapes and ancient traditions, with shuttle buses on hand to take you between Trim and Athboy. Judging from the number of international tourists on Cynthia's tour, expect it to be every bit as successful as the Wild Atlantic Way.
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