The nail revolution

Chanel has always set the bar when it comes to nail trends. In our exclusive shoot, Vickie Maye sees what’s in store for summer — and finds out how to get the look.

THE lipstick effect is the theory that, in a downturn, consumers will opt for an expensive lippie over a lavish piece of fur. The rationale? It’s an affordable piece of luxury.

But lipstick wasn’t the only winner in the latest recession.

In 2011, sales of nail polish soared by 54%, according to market researcher, NPD. In contrast, lipstick sales rose by just 14%. And last year in the UK, sales drew level with lipstick for the first time at £229m — equal to about 1m bottles a week.

Even Leonard Lauder, chairman Estée Lauder, the man who coined the ‘lipstick effect’ in 2001 to explain the surge in sales, agrees nail varnish is the new lipstick. The shift, he told Time magazine, has to do with “the glut of lipsticks in women’s boudoirs and the pick-me-up associated with donning colour”.

Welcome to the ‘nail varnish effect’.

It all started in 1994 when Uma Thurman wore a thick and deep, blood red nail in Pulp Fiction. It was Chanel’s latest shade: ‘Rouge Noir’. It was new, it was different — and it was a revelation. The waiting lists began.

Then came ‘Black Satin’, the period in 2006 where every celeb in town had their nails painted black. It didn’t take much time to trickle down to the masses.

A couple of years later, green — whoever would have predicted we’d be queuing for that shade on our nails — became the must-have colour, courtesy of ‘Jade’.

The three trends had one common thread — all of them were created by Chanel. It is the label that singlehandedly spearheaded the nail revolution, the first to create the notion of a waiting list for nails with ‘Rouge Noir’. After the hype surrounding ‘Jade’, the mushroom nude ‘Particuliere’ became an absolute sensation, with beauty editors admitting to joining the waiting lists. Their discontinued limited edition colours can sell for hundreds online — in store there’s a price tag of €23.

Other brands may have followed their lead — but Chanel really set the bar when it came to nails.

“You’d see the nail colour coming through in their handbags,” says Chanel’s Celebrity Nail Artist Pamela Laird. “And it was Chanel — it was high fashion for your nails.”

Without doubt they drove the nail colour trend.

Our obsession with colouring our nails goes right back to 5000BC when Indian women used henna to dye them. The Chinese later created their own ‘stain’ and, naturally, the ancient Egyptians dabbled in nail art, with a big focus on the colour red (only the rich and powerful could wear it). But it was the founder of Revlon in the 1920s who brought it to the masses in more modern times — in 1932 he launched a groundbreaking new polish that used pigments instead of dyes to colour the nails.

And our fascination with nail varnish began.

Of course, it’s understandable. Nail varnish is an affordable nod to the season’s colour trends. But it’s not just about money. Too scared to try this season’s vibrant brights? Then just buy the varnish. It’s an easy, accessible way to tap into the new season trends — at any age.

“We have followed the American model,” says Pamela. “Nails are no longer a treat. They’ve become regular maintenance, just like getting your roots done.”

The surge in nail bars — and the obsession with nail art — across the country is proof of that.

“The thing is,” Pamela says, “anyone can do it. It just takes time and patience. Don’t try and do your nails with your hand propped on your knee sitting up in bed. My top tip? Start with your bad hand.”

Just as the colours change by the season, so too do the shapes. Trend-setters are opting for the ‘coffin’ style — a long nail with the tips filed square — but Pamela’s advice for the season ahead? Almond and oval is the look. Alternatively keep it short and square.

On a visit to Chanel’s HQ in London in February, I was shown their new summer looks. The nails in particular were a standout, fun and like nothing we’ve ever seen before. A play on the traditional French manicure, but with vibrant colour, it’ll be the look of the summer. And here, Pamela Laird shows us, step by step how to achieve it.

They say the darker the colour the worse the economy. This season at Chanel the new nail colours are all sorbet oranges (Mirabella), candy pinks (Pink Tonic) and light whites (Eastern Light).

The economists can rest easy. The future is most definitely bright.

Chanel’s summer makeup collection is in store next week