Sally Foran: Eight ways to tackle post-summer pigmentation
Some of Sally Foran's hyperpigmentation treatments.
Summer can be tough on our skin, especially when it comes to hyperpigmentation.
Increased sun exposure can lead to dark spots, freckles, and the worsening of existing pigmentation issues, which can be permanent without treatment.
While hyperpigmentation can happen at any time of the year, it tends to rear its ugly head during the summer months thanks to being outdoors more, sun holidays, or from the weather here if we’re lucky — like this year.
By the time autumn comes around, the damage is visible, our freckles are more intense, and we may have accumulated new dark spots.
We all know the importance of wearing SPF, but sometimes our skincare routine can fall by the wayside while on holidays.
UV rays stimulate pigment cells to produce melanin and overexposure can result in dark patches.
When we don’t wear SPF, UV rays do their damage much faster, which is why it’s so important to use SPF and be religious about topping up every two hours.
I spoke to two skincare experts about what causes hyperpigmentation and how to treat it.
According to skin expert Sherna Malone, hyperpigmentation is your skin’s way of trying to protect against more intense, harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays.
“Melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin, are triggered by sunlight to produce more pigment. Existing hyperpigmentation can deepen with sun exposure, and people whose skin type is naturally prone to pigmentation, may see new dark spots appear during summer.
“Hormones are another driver. Melasma, for example, is often linked to pregnancy or hormonal contraception. Inflammation, such as marks left after acne or eczema flare ups, is also a cause.”
“People with darker skin naturally have more melanin, making hyperpigmentation more likely and often slower to improve,” she adds.
The good news is that sun induced pigmentation is often temporary and can fade within a few months with the right treatment.
Since hyperpigmentation is directly correlated with sun exposure, strict SPF application is critical.
“Wear an SPF of 30 or higher every single day, even when it’s raining or you’re indoors,” advises The Skin Nerd’s Jennifer Rock.
“This SPF should be its own product, not mixed into a moisturizer or foundation.”
Tinted SPFs are the most effective at preventing hyperpigmentation, as they contain iron oxides, which block visible light, a key driver in hyperpigmentation, as well as UV light.
“When it comes to at home skincare, ingredients that gently encourage cell turnover and inhibit melanin production are my go-to.”
Vitamin A (retinoids), pure vitamin C, antioxidants, SPF, and ingredients such as niacinamide and azelaic acid all play their part.
AHAs like lactic acid can also help to exfoliate and brighten. While AHAs improve appearance, protecting and correcting is equally key, Rock says.
However, you should avoid combining too many acids at once. Stick to one active at a time. Treat the skin gently and consistently, as results can take months to appear.
Calm inflammation and promote even tone by using an LED light or in salon treatments.
Avoid tan accelerators as these are designed to boost melanin production, which can worsen hyperpigmentation.
Malone advises: “The most important preventative step is consistent daily application and re-application of SPF, even in Ireland and when it’s cloudy.
"Maintaining a gentle but effective skincare routine supports skin health. Patience is essential: Pigment takes time to form and equally time to fade.”
Rock adds: “Home care is so important, using the above recommended ingredients, potentially alongside clinical treatments and modalities by a qualified individual.”
This advanced serum contains luminous 630 and antioxidant vitamins C and E, to target dark spots and prevent their recurrence.
- €38.99, Boots
A daily corrective treatment that helps to improve texture, clarity and discolouration with 3% azelaic acid and 2% Alpha arbutin.
- €89, Millies
A high security Vitamin C, with a high AHA/BHA concentration to provide a gentle peeling like efficacy.
Reduces the intensity of existing spots and prevents the appearance of new ones.
- €28, Allcare Pharmacy
Infused with Vitamin C, this targets pigment spots on the hands to visibly reduce their intensity and number.
- €28, McCauley Pharmacy
A potent dual-chamber serum that combines Thiamidol and concentrated hyaluronic acid, clinically proven to visibly reduce dark spots and prevent their reappearance with continued use.
- €46, Meaghers Pharmacy
An intense anti dark spot serum for hyperpigmentation which combines melasyl with 10% niacinamide, for a multi action treatment against hyperpigmentation, both treating existing and preventing future.
- €48, Look Fantastic
This helps to reduce the appearance of pigmentation and dark spots, while promoting a clear and even skin tone with a blend of botanical lighteners, vitamin C and grapeseed extract.
- €61, The Skin Nerd
A targeted treatment gel formulated to address dark spots with a 10% Aha/Pha exfoliating blend and powerful antioxidants chelators, to help trap the metals that can cause uneven skin tone.
- €24.95, Skinshop.ie
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