Collagen banking: Is the latest beauty trend pseudoscience or a new frontier?

A new skincare marketing term insists you can save up collagen now for later. Here's what we know.

Thu, 29 Aug, 2024 - 16:58

Kate Demolder

After the age of 20, we start to lose around 1% of collagen every year, as part of the natural ageing process.

A new skincare marketing term, collagen banking, insists you can save your collagen now for use later. But can you actually ‘bank’ collagen for later? Here’s what we know.

What is collagen?

“Collagen is a structural protein,” Dawn Hill, facialist and owner of Floraison shares. “It’s in almost every tissue we have; bones; ligaments; eyeballs and, of course, skin.

“It’s made up of amino acids wound tightly to keep skin stuck to the body, to keep ligaments moving smoothly and to keep skin supple. It plays a big part in wound healing but depletes as we get older, which is why when an older person cuts themselves, it takes far longer to heal.”

Collagen depletion can happen due to a variety of factors including environmental pollution, sugar, vitamin C deficiencies, smoking, alcohol, and sun exposure.

Michelle Ryan, head of education at Yon-Ka, says: “Getting in early to restore lost collagen is key to keeping your skin youthful.”

What is collagen banking?

“It’s a marketing term,” Hill says. “Implying there is a bank of collagen that you store all your collagen savings and use when needed, if only!

“I prefer the term collagen remodelling — through treatments like microneedling — you rebuild and enhance the skin’s structure and firmness. Microneedling creates tiny wounds that breach the stratum corneum [top-most layer of skin] to reach the deeper dermis, which in turn starts collagen synthesis.

“That said, what we produce in these circumstances is not ‘fresh’ collagen so to speak, it’s the body working to heal, rebuild and remodel. People forget it’s a protein and don’t realise that it goes to work in many places, not just the plumpness of our skin.”

Should I be buying collagen supplements and beauty products?

Hill is sceptical of pills and powders that purport to replenish your collagen: “Collagen molecules are much too big to penetrate through the skin. It can act as a good moisturiser, which is why some people see results, but that’s down to an increase in hydration rather than anything else. What it can do though, is increase natural moisturising factors like ceramides, improving the overall suppleness of the skin — but collagen synthesis is far more complicated than taking a supplement.”

So, what’s a person to do?

“Skincare can only do so much when it comes to collagen, but depending on your age and skin health, a good retinol can be great,” Hill says.

“Studies show Vitamin C can help to promote collagen synthesis too, but not everyone can tolerate these ingredients. For those in their early to mid-30s with a bit more disposable cash who want to up their game, I would definitely recommend microneedling.

“The studies are there, the research is there, and it has shown that it works. That needs upkeep though, after the initial course of three to four sessions perhaps quarterly or twice a year. Results can vary depending on your treatment; the device used; serums; the person doing it. Apart from that, diet and lifestyle choices are important as always. Sugar, smoking, stress and poor sleep all affect collagen. Unfortunately, there is never going to be a magic pill or quick fix to regain the collagen one has in their youth.”

Ryan says: “Yon-Ka has a variety of products to choose from to slow down the ageing process by using ingredients containing vitamin C, Vitamin A, peptides and plant-based stem cells. My top picks are the C20 serum (€141.50, millies.ie) which contains 20% vitamin C to boost collagen production and firm the skin, and our Advanced Optimiser Serum and Cream (€70 + €70, millies.ie). This duo contains a high concentration of peptides to target collagen production.”

Three products we love

Dermalogica Pro-Collagen Banking Serum (€99, dermalogica.ie)