The Skin Nerd: Everything you need to know about caring for your hair

From haircycling to rosemary oil - here are the trends that work

The Skin Nerd: Feeling the urge to splurge on your hair just lately? You’re not alone. The Irish haircare market size was valued at €163.2 million in 2021 and is forecasted to achieve growth of over 1% during 2021-2026 – impressive considering the anxiety surrounding the global economic climate.

Feeling the urge to splurge on your hair just lately? You’re not alone. The Irish haircare market size was valued at €163.2 million in 2021 and is forecasted to achieve growth of over 1% during 2021-2026 – impressive considering the anxiety surrounding the global economic climate. 

Whilst many of us are tightening our budgets, consumers are still spending on premium haircare, with research revealing that the prestige haircare sector achieved double-digit growth for three years. According to Euromonitor, haircare achieved 8% value growth in 2022 and overtook the wider beauty and personal care industry globally, with the market research company suggesting a rise in interest in hair health and a post-pandemic ‘outside the house’ activities as reasons behind this surge.

Consumers are also shopping for hair products more conscientiously, taking time to be more selective pre-purchase and eventually choosing to buy fewer items but invest in more high-quality products. Gone are the days of ‘wash and going’ with just any old shampoo. 

Whilst many of us seek simplicity, we are also prepared to invest in our haircare routine, seeking out the most beneficial, hard-working ingredients that bring us more than just that fresh out-of-the-salon bounce. Hair health has become a top priority too, with lots of us willing to do our research and look beyond topical products and short-term wins. 

This has meant a focus on scalp care, diet and protection. Arguably not the sexiest of topics, but ones which are crucial if you want to keep your hair in good condition long-term. All of this may sound a little familiar to regular readers of this column as this 360 approach is akin to what I suggest for skin care too. 

Over the past few years, beauty trends certainly appear to have influenced haircare, with many trending ingredients, routines and formulas emerging what seems like directly from skincare. 

Intrigued by skin’s growing influence in hair care, this week, I give my verdict on some of the latest skincare-inspired hair trends.

Trend 1: The use of actives

Hyaluronic acid is commonplace in skincare but has been cropping up within our favourite hair products too. The moisture-binding humectant is praised for its ability to plump up the complexion but can also help to hydrate the hair, enabling hair fibres to retain moisture from products. It can also help to seal the cuticles (meaning less frizz), help to prevent dry scalp and fill in the cracks within a porous shaft. 

For maximum impact, apply your hyaluronic acid-enriched hair product to damp strands. The reason for this? When there is water, hyaluronic acid is able to bind to it and form a ‘coating’ to lock moisture in. 

Niacinamide and salicylic acid are other actives you may be more used to seeing within skincare, but which also dip their toes into the world of haircare. 

Niacinamide is said to be particularly beneficial for thinning hair, whilst the exfoliating properties of salicylic acid have made it a key ingredient in many new launches addressing dandruff. 

For targeted anti-ageing benefits, I recommend Hush & Hush Deep Rooted Scalp Serum (€78, theskinnerd.com) which contains active ingredients to improve follicle regeneration and reduce shedding.

Trend 2: Bedtime routines

The use of overnight masks is an example of how treating your locks as you do your complexion can work wonders on lacklustre hair. 

Yes, sleep-in hair masks have been around for a while but now they are joined by overnight serums and other skincare-inspired techniques that also aim to capitalise on the regenerative powers of nighttime. 

Hair slugging – which involves coating tresses in oil, covering and leaving overnight to encourage softer, silkier locks is another example as are leave-on-scalp serums, which can prove a great mode of delivery when it comes to active ingredients.

Trend 3: Rosemary oil

Although the use of rosemary oil is not new in hair, what is new is the #rosemaryoil accumulating over 2 billion TikTok views, thanks to growing claims that the essential oil can help to boost hair growth and thicken thinning hair. 

Far from being just a fad, many trichologists back rosemary oil’s lock-boosting powers and also praise its ability to nourish. 

Whilst this all sounds very promising if you are looking to encourage hair growth, it’s important to not use pure rosemary oil as this can cause irritation. Instead, make sure it is mixed with a carrier oil to dilute it.

Trend 4: Scalp focus

Strictly speaking, the scalp is skin but there’s no doubt that this hair-covered part of our skin has been neglected historically - but not on 2023’s clock. 

With an increase in Google searches for scalp care, hair and skincare brands are competing to cater for this rising need to show the scalp some love.

Trend 5: Hair cycling

Like skin cycling, the principle of hair cycling is health-focused and refers to using different products on a rotation in order to maximise hair and scalp health. 

While your hair type should shape the process, most hair cycling routines involve a detoxing first cycle, a second cycle focusing on repair and a third one to prepare your locks for any styling that follows. 

Hair cycling is considered beneficial to most people as it encourages us to be more attentive to the ever-changing needs of our scalp and hair. The process can also be beneficial for getting you out of a hair rut and helping you to avoid overusing a particular product. 

This can often happen when trying to achieve softer, shinier hair. Many people end up using too many moisture-laden products, which can lead to greasy feeling and limp locks. 

Rotating different formulas as hair cycling demands, then ensures that your hair isn’t getting too much of one ingredient. 

As a final note - although anyone can try hair cycling, if you find that your scalp is itchy, irritated or you are suffering hair loss more than occasionally, you should see a trichologist or dermatologist for advice first.