Skin Nerd: Follow my tips to really clean your skin properly

When it comes to skincare there’s no better place to start than building a solid cleansing routine.

As we dive into the first few weeks of this brand-new year, how many of you are looking to refresh some old routines? 

Ditching bad habits and adopting ones that serve you better is pretty much a new year rite of passage, and whether you go in for the whole ‘new year, new you’ theme that we are presented with every January, there’s never a bad time to adopt healthier habits. 

When it comes to skincare there’s no better place to start than building a solid cleansing routine. The humble face wash is often the most overlooked part of a skincare regime, with many ‘making do’ with face wipes (shudder), micellar water or splashing and dashing their way to the next stage. 

If you find the ritual arduous now, it is interesting to note that cleansing - like many areas of personal care - has an intriguing history and is said to have been carried out using bone or stone to scrape the skin in very very early times.

Now, cleansing forms an important part of daily life, often undertaken for more than simple dirt removal. In fact, more recently, cleansing rituals have been promoted as a means of relaxation and self-care.

Whilst we can all fall guilty of forgoing a double cleanse or spending less time on this stage than we could do on occasions, it pays off massively in the long term if we put time and effort into building a solid, consistent cleansing regime. Cleansing 2023 doesn’t need to be complicated but the following pointers can set you on the right track...

Do use products designed for the face

Fortunately, gone are the days where we must locate the nearest bone to ‘scrape’ our face clean and so my simplest advice is to look for products designed for the function of facial cleansing. 

Washing your face with body wash may seem like a good idea when you are trying to maximise time in a quick shower but using products that are not meant for the skin on your face can be costly long-term. 

The reason for my caution is that many body washes contain antibacterial or surfactant ingredients that are too harsh for the skin on the face, which tends to be more delicate than that of your body. 

Body washes also tend to be highly fragranced, which can trigger a flare up in sensitive skin and lead to dryness and irritation.

Do cleanse twice daily

Some question the importance of cleansing the skin in the morning after removing makeup, dirt and debris the night before but I am an advocate of a twice daily cleanse with a double cleanse at least in the evening. Why? Well, for one, the evening skincare regime is likely to be the time that you apply your richer formulas such as vitamin A and ceramides. 

Having slept in the skincare equivalent of a winter coat, it’s likely that your skin could do with a refresh in the morning prior to applying any morning skincare and makeup. 

Secondly, many of us sweat during the night and bacteria can build up on the skin, which can lead to congestion if not removed. A simple cleanse is enough for the morning, but a double cleanse is ideal for the evening. 

This means doing a pre-cleanse to remove any SPF, makeup, dirt, debris and pollution and then following up with a daily, nourishing cleanser afterwards. This cleanser can be swapped for an active cleanser 2-3 evenings a week to target more specific skin issues. 

Double cleansing is especially important if you wear makeup and allows products you apply afterwards to penetrate the skin more effectively.

Stick to lukewarm water

Although a splash of chilly water can be refreshing in the morning, many dermatologists believe that lukewarm is the ideal temperature for use on the face. 

This is because hot water can strip the skin of natural oils and lead to the skin becoming irritated and inflamed. It can also flare up the skin of those with conditions such as eczema, so the safest and most skin-respectful temperature is not too hot and not too cold.

Give it time

Allow yourself at least 60 seconds to massage your cleanser into the skin and give the formula a chance to get to work. 

A gentle massage in circular motions can help stimulate the lymphatic system, which boosts blood circulation for healthier, more energised skin.

Don’t forget your neck!

Remember that your neck should be included in your skincare routine too. Take cleanser from your hairline down the neck and across the decolletage for a full freshen up. 

Skingredients PreProbiotic Cleanse Hydrating Cleanser

My motto is from the nipples up and a great cleanser that works well for this is Skingredients PreProbiotic Cleanse Hydrating Cleanser (€29, skingredients.com). 

This nourishing cleanser contains Lactobacillus a dairy-free probiotic that boosts the skin’s natural moisturising factor for hydrated skin and Oligosaccharide, a hydrating and skin-soothing prebiotic that helps to prevent trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and so gives back to the skin whilst also providing a thorough cleanse.

Power up your cleanse with active ingredients

Two to three evenings a week I recommend swapping your nourishing daily cleanser for one that contains active ingredients specifically targeting a skincare goal.

If you have oily or congested skin, this may be a cleanser that includes salicylic acid. Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant (€68.14, theskinnerd.com) is a rice-based exfoliating powder that can be added to your usual cleanser for a super boost of salicylic acid. 

Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant

The powder formula activates upon contact with water, releasing papain, salicylic acid and rice enzymes that micro-exfoliate dead cells, instantly leaving skin clear and smooth. 

If your goal is brightening dull skin and boosting radiance, a cleanser containing glycolic and alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs) could work well. These exfoliating acids gently dislodge dead skin cells, removing any build-up from the skin barrier and allowing these targeted ingredients better access to the deeper layers of the skin.

If you rinse properly, you shouldn’t need toner

As well as clogging up the pores. skin cleanser residue can be irritating and so it is important to ensure that all traces of cleanser are removed before moving on to the next step. 

Some people like the ‘closure’ of a toner, but I do not consider these necessary if you pay attention to rinsing the formula off. 

If you do decide to follow-up with a toner, avoid alcohol-based products as these can be drying on the skin.