Skin Nerd: Here's how to include an oil in your winter skincare regime

Not all oils are created equally, and it is important to choose the right one for your skin type and goal to avoid clogging the pores or upsetting the skin barrier.

The skincare market becomes laden with oils around this time of the year. From cleansers and hydrators to fermented oils; there seems to be a richer, more intensive “oilternative” to every part of our skincare regime — but how do you ensure your transition to a facial oil is a smooth one?

Plant oils have been used on the skin for cosmetic purposes for many years thanks to the plethora of positive physiological benefits they can bring. Facial oils can be an effective source of nourishment for the skin, containing vitamins, essential fatty acids, and minerals.

They can also have reparative and protective effects such as protecting the skin against free radicals and soothing dryness or irritation. What’s more, the application of facial oil may act as a barrier to the skin by an occlusive effect, allowing the skin to retain moisture, resulting in decreased transepidermal water loss.

However, not all oils are created equally, and it is important to choose the right one for your skin type and goal to avoid clogging the pores or upsetting the skin barrier.

How to pick an oil that works for your skin

When applied topically, the composition of plant oils (which includes triglycerides, phospholipids, free fatty acids, phenolic compounds and antioxidants) may influence skin physiology functions (skin barrier, inflammatory status, antioxidant response, and proliferation) differently.

To get nerdie, plant oils also differentiate by type and the amount of triglycerides and free fatty acids, eg, straight-chain saturated fatty acids (SFAs) and unsaturated fatty acids (UFAs) that they carry.

It’s important to do your research on the pros and cons of each before trying one on your skin. For example, olive oil has been shown to have great wound healing and anti-inflammatory properties but has been found to have a detrimental effect on stratum corneum integrity and skin barrier function, with studies showing evidence of increased transepidermal water loss following topical application to the skin.

An impaired barrier spells trouble for the skin’s water content as a resilient barrier is essential to minimise transepidermal water loss (the process by which water is evaporated from the skin to the external environment), which can lead to dry, itchy skin. This highlights the importance of considering all the ways an ingredient may impact your skin.

Topical sesame seed oil is known to protect the skin from UV radiation whilst daily topical application of argan oil (which is composed of mono-unsaturated and saturated fatty acids) has been shown to improve skin elasticity and skin hydration by maintaining the capacity to hold water.

Here are some of the best ways to incorporate oil into your routine:

• For an anti-ageing boost:

Enriched with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, rosehip seed oil is rated highly for its ability to protect the skin against oxidative stress, along with the welcome bonuses of improvement in skin elasticity and boosted collagen production. Rosehip oil also contains vitamins A and C and has been found effective in evening out the skin tone and minimising the appearance of scarring.

As this is a dry oil that absorbs easily and doesn’t leave a greasy film on the skin, it’s a joy to apply and suitable for tackling a range of skin woes including acne breakouts. I also recommend grape seed oil-based Pestle & Mortar Retinoid Night Oil, if you are looking to diminish the appearance of fine lines and your skin is tolerant to actives.

• As a ‘topcoat’ for oily skin:

If you’ve spent most of your skincare life trying to remove excess oil from your face, then adding oil to your routine seems counterproductive at best. But is there an oil that can help you to nourish your complexion without exacerbating your already oily skin?

The truth is that oily skin still needs moisture — what you do need is careful consideration about where you include oil in your routine and how you use it. You can add a protective layer to your skin’s moisture barrier by lightly patting on a few drops of facial oil.

This will help to seal in the moisturiser without overloading your skin. Rub two to three drops of a light oil such as Herbivore Lapis Balancing Facial Oil into the palm of your hands and gently pat (not massage) to help it stay at the top of your skin and keep its distance from your pores.

• As a reparative treatment oil:

If a lack of humidity or over-exfoliating has left your skin compromised, a treatment oil can be a great way to replenish and repair your skin. Avocado oil is high in antioxidants and has been cited as an excellent source of moisture for dry, damaged, or chapped skin.

Research conducted on the effect of topical administration of avocado fruit extract on rats revealed faster healing, an increase in collagen synthesis and a decrease in the numbers of inflammatory cells during the wound healing process.

I also recommend applying an oil containing deeply hydrating coconut oil in the evening so that it can work whilst your skin rests. Coconut oil is a great budget-saving ingredient, with research finding that thanks to its high polyphenol and fatty acid content, cultured coconut extract has potent anti-inflammatory properties, which can assist the skin in addressing UVB irradiation induced inflammation.

Coconut oil has many at-home uses including body moisturisation, as a hot oil within hair masks, to restore chapped hands and feet and is suitable for use during pregnancy.

Alternatively, an oil containing skin-soothing lavender can also pacify an unsettled complexion overnight.

Nerdie Knowledge

Probiotics are naturally occurring microorganisms that live within and on the body. Whilst sun damage, diet and overuse of irritating skin products can throw the skin’s microbiome out of balance, probiotics such as Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium can help the skin protect itself by creating an equilibrium that allows good bacteria to thrive and maximise skin health. Stabilising the microbiome helps to strengthen skin against environmental aggressors, improve signs of dryness, relieve discomfort and tightness, calm inflammation and restore a healthy pH balance to the skin’s surface. A probiotic and prebiotic regime can be particularly beneficial in adding balance for a person who also likes to include exfoliating acids and retinol products in the mix.