How salicylic acid improves blackheads, acne, large pores and more

Salicylic acid can be a great addition to your skincare routine. Rachel Marie Walsh has some dos and don’ts
How salicylic acid improves blackheads, acne, large pores and more

Get super smooth skin with these salicylic acid dos and don’ts.

Salicylic acid is a skincare ingredient that may inspire you to bin your concealer. This exfoliant improves several unsightly skin concerns. Blackheads, acne, sunspots, large pores, and post-inflammatory erythema (those red marks you see after pimples heal), all look better for regular use of a gentle, fragrance-free salicylic acid product. 

It can also help with dullness, inflammation (including redness from rosacea), and excess oil production. I always say you don’t need to exfoliate; skin renews itself naturally regardless — and the skincare market is saturated with so many scrubs, facial brushes, and aggressive formulas that do more harm than good. 

However, this ingredient’s benefits for oily and combination skin are well established. Some simple dos and don’ts can help you ease salicylic acid into your routine quite pleasantly.

Do start slowly

Paula’s Choice Calm 1% BHA Exfoliating Lotion, €32
Paula’s Choice Calm 1% BHA Exfoliating Lotion, €32

A leave-on product that contains 1-2% salicylic acid is usually effective in dealing with clogged pores or uneven texture. Less is more with skincare. Keep in mind that if you already use a benzoyl peroxide or retinol product (or if you’ve got a glycolic, lactic or other exfoliating acid in your skincare routine), you are already do something to speed up your skin cell turnover and adding salicylic acid increases your risk of sensitivity and irritation. 

In my opinion, Paula’s Choice Calm 1% BHA Exfoliating Lotion, €32 at paulaschoice-eu.com, is a nice ‘starter’ salicylic acid. It combines the star ingredient along with green tea, beta-glucan, and other ingredients that reduce redness and keep skin comfortable.

Do read instructions

You probably won’t need to use a leave-on salicylic acid every day. 

Ingredient concentrations vary, and the frequency with which you want to exfoliate should decrease if skin feels especially tender or is more prone to redness.

Do take care if using salicylic acid on the neck

Caring for your neck is important but this area may not need salicylic acid. The skin is thinner and has fewer sebaceous glands. 

It tends to tolerate leave-on exfoliants poorly, so unless spots and other blemishes are a real problem below your chin you can probably stop your application there.

Don’t use salicylic acid and retinol together

PSA Liquid Clarity BHA & Bakuchiol Blemish Recovery Booster, €27
PSA Liquid Clarity BHA & Bakuchiol Blemish Recovery Booster, €27

Dryness is a potential side effect of salicylic acid. Retinol enhances skin cell turnover, which can cause dryness, as well as some irritation if your skin is still adjusting to this potent ingredient. Layering them increases your chances of dryness, sensitivity, and peeling. They are both great ingredients for improving acne and regulating pore size — it’s just best not to combine them. 

PSA Liquid Clarity BHA & Bakuchiol Blemish Recovery Booster, €27 at boots.ie, combines salicylic acid with the non-drying but somewhat retinol-like benefits of bakuchiol, as well as a range of soothing antioxidants.

Don’t use salicylic acid around the eyelids

We all want a bright-eyed look, but salicylic acid is not the ingredient to get you there. The skin on the eyelids is 40% thinner than that on the rest of the face and skincare tends to migrate a little after application, so even using this ingredient under the brows risks dry, sore lids.

Do use a wash-off product if you’re especially sensitive

Washing your face with a salicylic acid cleanser and tepid water in the morning means you get the long-term benefits of the ingredient with a reduced risk of irritation, as well as an instantly smoother face! Applying the cleanser gently in small, upward circles helps to guide the star ingredient into the pores. Clinique Acne Blemish Solutions Cleansing Gel, €18.45 at lookfantastic.ie, is a classic salicylic acid formula that won’t dry you out. 

I also like The Inkey List Salicylic Acid Cleanser, €13.99 at beautyfeatures.ie, it contains soothing allantoin and some oil-controlling zinc oxide. It will take longer to see results from a cleanser than if you use a leave-on product but avoiding irritation completely is a benefit in itself. Starting your routine with a BHA wash also slightly lowers the pH of your skin barrier, which allows for better penetration of many active ingredients you apply afterward. That niacinamide you’ve been using to improve red marks should work even better.

Always apply broad-spectrum SPF30 or higher after using salicylic acid

Hello Sunday SPF The One That's A Serum Face Drops SPF45, €23

UV exposure darkens acne scars and speeds up skin aging, and skin is especially vulnerable after exfoliation. Hello Sunday SPF The One That's A Serum Face Drops SPF45, €23 at cultbeauty.com, is a lightweight, fragrance-free SPF that won’t irritate eyes or leave a white residue when it dries. It also contains hyaluronic acid, Vitamin E, and other free-radical fighting ingredients.

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