Product watch: February beauty launches
“Codes” are fashion-speak for a brand’s symbols, the stamps that help its products retain an identity amid shifting trends.
Unlike the secret sequences the term usually covers, fashion codes are designed to be universally recognised. Chanel is especially successful at this, constantly reinforcing its linked Cs, chains, quilted leather and camellias. Repetition is recognition.
Colour-wise, the black and white packaging is consistent, while red lips, gold accessories, gold accessories and beige pumps are as vital to the Chanel-strucks’ wardrobes as No.5. Lucia Pica based the brand’s spring makeup collection on these five key colours.
All have been used before, of course, but Pica’s been surprising us with freshly-tweaked classics since becoming Chanel Beauty’s creative head two years ago.
Take the Black Metamorphosis Tinted Top Coat, €25, which gives other polishes a glossy black veil. Or Coco Code Exclusive Creation, €57, a quad of red, honey, caramel-beige and peach powders that can highlight, bronze or blush.
Les Quatre Ombres Eye Shadow Quad in Codes Subtils, €51, is another multi-taker. The palette can be used to create a soft pink and pewter eye for day and transforms into a metallic smoky-eye kit with the help of a damp shadow brush.
Pica’s two vibrant takes on classic red lipsticks are not to be missed. Rouge Allure Luminous Satin Lip Colour, €34, in Ardente is a cheerful poppy and Indépendente a more sophisticated fiery orange.
Smashbox and Pretty Little Liars star Shay Mitchell have collaborated on seven new palettes for spring.
The ‘Cover Shots’ shade range is an artist’s dream, offering vast potential for experimentation. Buzz-spurring images of Mitchell in dramatically different looks appear on the brand’s Instagram captioned “Seven Shades of Shay”.
Each palette has a sextet of eye colours, plus two pans of nude powder upon which to base your chosen combination.
‘Softlight’ is as glowing and flattering as its name suggests. It doubles as a highlighting palette and is my pick of the range. ‘Metallic’ comes with soft foil-finish shadows that do not cake or shed.
Then there’s Matte, which is filled with muted everyday shades without a trace of shimmer. ‘Golden Hour,’ a mix of beachy matte and luminous shades, is inspired by Los Angeles, where Smashbox’s HQ is located.
‘Bold’ offers a cartoonish selection of rainbow colours. ‘Ablaze,’ is all about warm tones. This palette’s red, burgundy and maroon shades really make blue eyes pop. ‘Smoky’ is reportedly Mitchell’s favourite.
This mix of mattes and shimmers make contouring the eye a cinch. Choose it to recreate her red carpet smoky-eye look.
Cover Shots Eye Palettes, €31, are available from February 18.
‘Nude’ is not a colour but a spectrum and BareMinerals new lip collection covers every shade.’Gen Nude is comprised of sheer cream lipsticks, liquid lipsticks, glosses and pencils. The Radiant Lipstick, €21, feels best of the lot on frosty mornings. T
he formula is buttery with plant oils and has a naturally plumping effect.
There are 15 shades, all of which provide medium coverage and with a demi-shine finish. Plant fats are great for skin but don’t keep lipstick in place for long.
Using a Gen Nude Under Over Lip Liner, €17, before or after application creates seamless definition. Five shades blend easily with nudes from rose to maroon.
Gen Nude Buttercream Lipgloss, €20, lives up to its name with smooth application and a non-sticky finish. While not quite as rich as its sister lipstick, the formula does contain antioxidant oils that plump without irritation.
Ten sheer mauve, pink and beige shades add subtle shine to your day makeup.
The collection’s Matte Liquid Lipcolour, €20, is most on trend and among the most emollient formulas of its kind.
Liquid lipstick tends to be drying, both because of its matte finish and the film-forming ingredients necessary for a solid coat of colour. BareMinerals counteracts this effect with sunflower seed oil and Vitamin E.
The finish isn’t tacky and the ten-shade range is pretty save for ‘Cult,’ a bland yellow-y beige.
Many of us choose beige or biscuit hues for a nude lip and this does flatter olive and darker complexions.
To keep the look from washing out fair or ivory skin, try a shade with undertones close to your natural lip colour. Gen Nude Matte Liquid Lipstick in ‘Juju’ and Radiant Lipstick in ‘Love’ have deep pink and reddish undertones, respectively.
Wearing adequate sun protection under makeup is challenging, especially when skin is sensitive. The least irritating sunscreens - zinc oxide and titanium dioxide - can alter colour with their white-ish cast and sometimes leave foundation looking patchy.
Relying on the broad-spectrum SPF in your makeup means applying a thicker layer than you might like. A good primer with sun protection is, therefore, a real find.
Paula’s Choice is a Washington-based brand that specialises in products free from fragrance and other irritants.
Resist Smoothing Primer Serum SPF30, €35 at paulaschoice-eu.com, is best suited to normal to dry and sensitive skin. ‘Resist’ is the brand’s anti-ageing line (90% of non-DNA related skin ageing is caused by sun damage), and the formula is packed with potent antioxidants, as well as emollients that minimise fine lines and help create a flawless base for makeup.
Many of the former (green tea, liquorice, chamomile...) act as anti-redness agents. It goes on completely sheer and doubles as a daytime serum or moisturiser (unless skin is very dry).
My only complaint about this product is that there isn’t enough of it for the price. On the other hand, there are more expensive primers by household names that have less impressive ingredients lists.
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