Kate Mara dazzled in ivory Dior at the LA premiere of Man Down this month. Her makeup artist was the talented Coleen Campbell-Olwell, whose recent work can also be seen on the faces of Neve Campbell and Alexis Bledel.
Coleen prepped Kate’s skin by smoothing on Orlane Paris Super Moisturising Light Cream, €105 at Orlane.eu, with a Beautyblender.
She recommends any light, hyaluronic acid-rich lotion like this to start and uses the same sponge for moisturiser, primer and foundation for seamless blending throughout.
Her primer of choice is Hourglass Veil Mineral Primer SPF15, €62 at net-a-porter.com (right), which is a bit of a super base.
It neutralises redness, shrinks pores, softens the appearance of fine lines and sets to a satin finish.
A light layer of Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation, €45, made Kate’s complexion glow.
“It’s my staple foundation, very lightweight but pigmented enough to give great coverage.”
Kate’s brown eyes, made up in shades of taupe, bronze and blue, really stood out in photos from the event.
She used shadows from the Lorac Pro Palette 1, €102.12 via Amazon, which boasts a 16-shade selection and is fun to play around if you’re an aspiring artist.
The Giorgio Armani Night Light Holiday Collection Palette, €140, is more widely available and has four silky matte-shadows and four shimmers, all in similar shades to the taupe and iridescent browns used in Kate’s look.
Coleen began by washing a satin shimmer shadow in light bronze all over the lids.
For a more open, rounded look she blended a matte shadow in medium taupe through the lid contour and into the corners, buffing upwards and outward on the outer eye for a soft finish.
For an interesting pop of colour, she traced Kate’s waterline with Lancôme Crayon Khôl in Black Lapis, €19, a blue-black shade that can be hard to track down. Smashbox Always Sharp 3D Liner Pen in ‘3D Neptune,’€20, is similar.
She softened the line under the lower lashes with an extra-small shadow brush and then went over it with the bronze shadow from the lids. “The bronze mutes the blue a little and pulls the whole look together.”
The star’s lashes are naturally long, so Coleen curled them and swept on Orlane Volume Care Mascara, €32, at orlane.eu.
“This is perfect of long lashes as it makes them look thicker but not spidery.
She also like Lancôme Définicils Mascara, €28, for shorter, sparser lashes.
“The shape of the brush lets you really get in there and reach every lash.”
She filled in Kate’s brows with Dior Diorshow Brow Styler Pen, €24.50, — “The tip is very precise and let’s you draw natural-looking individual hairs”— and shaped them straight across, arch-free. “I love this Nineties look.”
MAC Lip Pencil in Mahogany, €17.50, brought out the brown undertones in Kate’s deep-berry lip colour. “Kate wanted to do burgundy lips that weren’t too red, kind of like Winona Ryder’s in Reality Bites.”
This lipstick is Make Up Forever Artist Intense, €24, in C407 ‘Black Red’ (above), “I pencilled above the Cupid’s bow and underneath the lip-line a little for definition and blended both lipstick and liner very well with a brush.
Coleen is a fan of subtle contouring, regardless of trends. “I’ve been contouring since the early 00s but using very warm, taupe shades that are close to the client’s complexion instead of deep bronzes that make the face look sculpted and artificial.”
She restricts shading to the underside of the cheekbones. She applied Chanel Soleil Tan de Chanel, €39, which is actually a bronze makeup base than can be used all over the face and is a light enough shade to resemble the kind of tan very fair skin like Kate’s might develop naturally. If you really love your shade-bronze-highlight contouring, Coleen recommends Smashbox Step-by-Step Contour Kit, €45, though she prefers to lift the complexion with a natural flush rather than strobing.
The blush is a mix of Benefit Dandelion Powder Blush, €34, and Lancôme Blush Subtil in 021 Rose Subtil, €38.50, buffed well over the apples of the cheeks.
“The mixture cuts down on the unnatural colour-pop effect of a single shade.”