Product watch: skincare treatments

Combination is the most common skin type and can often be tricky to treat. Regain your balance with Rachel Marie Walsh’s product picks.

Balance is hard enough to attain when your whole face is dry or oily, but when parts are at odds it can seem impossible.

Combination skin is very common, as the oil glands on the T-zone and chin tend to be more active than those on the cheeks. This skin type is often genetic.

A change in skin type on certain parts of the face can be caused by stress, hormones, medication or even a change in seasons.

Forgoing UV protection and using inappropriate products can also encourage dryness, inflammation, and congested pores.

Skincare that is heavily fragranced and/or high in non-fatty alcohol can aggravate these issues further.

The discovery of two different skin types on your face does not mean you have to double your spend on skincare. Harmonise by using gentle products all over and spot-treating problems.

Cleanse and Tone

Cleansing and makeup removal require formulas hydrating enough to ease cosmetics and dirt from dry/normal skin, yet not so emollient that oily patches break out.

I suggest micellar lotion and cotton pads for makeup removal. Bioderma Sensibio H20, €11.50, has been a best-seller on the continent for years and the brand arrives at independent pharmacies nationwide this month.

The formula is too light to clog pores and gentle enough not to strip sensitive areas. Try Yes to Cucumbers Daily Gel Cleanser, €9.29, for an effective, non-drying cleanse in the morning.

Toner is an underrated step in skincare and skipping it means missing out on some great ingredients. Patting on a gentle toner can reduce the inflammation associated with rosacea/acne, help to refine pore-size and provide oil-free hydration. DHC CoQ10 Lotion, €41.60 @feelunique.com, is chockfull of soothing and anti-aging extracts.

Treat and Repair

Now a word on the dark scourge of oily/combination skin: Blackheads.

These are not the results of lazy cleansing. Attempting to scrub them away can do more harm than good, weakening skin’s natural moisture barrier and encouraging sensitivity.

The black dots are not dirt but a mix of trapped excess oil and dead skin-cells that has darkened with exposure to oxygen.

Peel-off strips and masks are actually highly inefficient means of removal. They usually succeed in taking off the surface layer of skin, leaving your nose/forehead more sensitive and your blackheads intact.

Daily use of a gentle Beta Hydroxy Acid gel after your toner can whisk away those dead cells, refine pores and help to control excess oil. Smashbox Photo Finish More Than Primer Blemish-Control Treatment, €35, does all three.

Use this silky gel only on the oily, blemish-prone areas of combination skin and allow it to dry before applying your antioxidant serum and SPF product. Sun protection is essential when wearing an exfoliant in daytime.

At night, treat blemish-prone areas with a gentle benzoyl peroxide lotion to reduce redness and kill acne-causing bacteria.

La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo, €17.50, is a good buy. To remove blackheads, first open pores gently with a warm face cloth.

Then press the looped tip of a comedone extractor over the blocked pore (or comedo) and pull forward to ease out the blemish.

If the blackhead does not come out at first attempt, it is likely very deeply entrenched and should not be forced (too much pressure can damage skin). Don’t worry, you can try again tomorrow.

Hydrate and Protect

An antioxidant serum is all the moisturiser you need when skin is a combination of oily and normal.

The best of these concentrated products give the entire complexion a vitamin boost that supports collagen development, soothes redness, and helps to repair UV damage.

Retinol (Vitamin A) is a great ingredient to have in your serum no matter what your skin type. Vitamin C, tocopherol and resveratrol are other goodies to keep in mind.

Murad Time Release Retinol Concentrate, €78, has an excellent formula. Olay Regenerist Fragrance-Free Regenerating Serum, €31.99, is a good supermarket option.

Combination skin with dry and/or flaky patches can benefit from an Alpha Hydroxy Acid exfoliant and a light moisturiser to spot-treat the problem.

A gentle Alphy Hydroxy Acid product (typically formulated with glycolic or lactic acid) will soften and smooth rough skin, increasing natural moisture content and evening tone. Like BHA lotions, these are best used after your toner.

Try Derma E Evenly Radiant Overnight Peel, €13.50 @neulook.net, on dry areas only. Sun protection with SPF30 or higher is essential after an exfoliant has been allowed to set.

A lotion-like moisturiser soothes the dry areas of combination skin.

Mary Kay Timewise Restore and Recover Complex for Combination Skin, €39, is wonderfully light and a great makeup base.

Choosing sun protection for combination skin can be especially tricky.

A sheer, broad-spectrum serum with SPF30 or higher is ideal. My favourite is Supergoop! Save Face Sunscreen Serum SPF30, €48@ SpaceNK, which also doubles as anti-aging serum.

Adequate coverage is important. Dermatologists recommend filling the hollow of your palm (about half a teaspoon) with product to coat the face, neck, and ears.

Wear oil-free makeup and an SPF face powder for added protection. bareMinerals Complexion Rescue Tinted Hydrating Gel Cream SPF30, €29, has the perfect texture for combination skin.

A dusting of bareMinerals Mineral Veil SPF25, €25, keeps shine at bay in a non-chalky way.