A guide to the perfect transitional wardrobe
NO-ONE likes to be between anything: jobs, lovers, Homeland box sets; not least seasons. In fashion terms, ‘between seasons’ is a de facto style purgatory as retailers shill the last dregs of sale stock while waiting for next season’s manna to drop. And when it does, chances are it’s either too warm or too cold outside to wear any of it.
Your choices: wait patiently for the ideal sartorial conditions or brave the elements and show you mean business; even if that does involve blue limbs or questionable damp patches. That is, until now.
Increasingly designers and brands have begun to curry favour with pre-collections that bridge the gap between seasonal extremes — ideal for milder climates like our own. What’s more, they also help assuage high-street burnout, where, visually exhausted by months of culottes and crop tops, shoppers simply choose to opt out.
Rather, transitional wear offers instant gratification for the shopping stalwart with some retail Polyfilla for those mid-season window displays. That said, the wearable and sellable appeal is a draw in itself — wear it now and wear it later. Everyone wins.
So what of pre-fall? If Ken Ring gets it right, we could well feel some heat in that sun well into September which puts the kibosh on the full-length coats and hirsute Yeti jackets trending for autumn/winter. With that in mind, the early bird can still get her hands on some canny wardrobe refreshers that’ll maintain a decent cost-per-wear ratio well into the frostier months.
Let’s start with the staples. There are four key trends that do double duty as seasonal segues: the gaucho (a mid-length cousin to the culotte); the blanket (a Clint Eastwood style cape); the swanky sweatshirt (less marl; more marvellous) and the colour orange (it really is the new black). Better yet, they’re all in store now.
Make like Proenza Schouler and pair your gauchos with open toe booties and a sleeveless tunic for warm days, swapping out for a ’70s-style roll neck and knee boots when the mercury drops.
And blankets aren’t just for bed, kids. Thanks to Chloé and Chanel the Western-inspired outerwear is big news; not least due to its cross-over appeal. Wear as a wrap with a simple jeans and shirt combo or layer and belt over a sweater dress for cosy style snaps. Sporty sartorialists will love the upgraded sweatshirt as seen at Valentino and Raoul — think jacquards and lace — perfect for pairing with last season’s circle skirts which are proving their staying power.
Finally, ditch those prissy palette cleansers (cream and cappuccino belong in coffee cups) and make space for a shot of uncompromising orange. It’s a no-brainer as far as updates are concerned and according to New Agers, the colour helps balance the second chakra which rules communication.
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More dash than cash? The beauty of pre-fall is that it doesn’t necessitate a new purchase. Hardy perennials tend to weather the trend cycles meaning more bang for your fashion buck. Spring’s bomber and baseball jackets transition beautifully across the seasonal divide as does the demure duster coat. Marry either with a mini or maxi dress and Adidas Originals (2015’s New Balance) or trusty ankle booties.
Jonesing for some wardrobe newness? Check yourself before indulging in a new print. Nineties plaid and ’60s graphic box patterns continue to be crowd-pleasers, especially when layered with auxiliary brights for a fresh spin on an old classic. Take a leaf out of the McQ and Dior lookbooks by double plaiding for a truly squared effect.
If you’re not quite ready to co-opt a winter palette, pastels continue to punch well above their pantone weight. Top tip? Make dusky pinks and powder blues winter-worthy by doubling with darker neutrals like grey, navy or black. Equally, if the idea of consigning your feet to the dark recesses of a boot doesn’t hold much appeal, your Birkenstocks will slide well into chillier climes with socks and tights. Yes, the age old fashion faux pas has come full circle. Who knew? And as for those diaphanous summer dresses; co-ordinate with stovepipe trousers and a skinny belt like Prabal Gurung, et voilà — office apparel redefined.
The semi-summer appeal of pre-fall dressing is deliciously appealing but if badly-executed, could create a look that’s thrown together rather than put together. The secret to pulling off pre-seasons with aplomb is all in the layering: the bugbear of next level dressing that demands far too much of our grey matter on a dark October’s morning. Fancy a high fashion hack? When in doubt, tailor those layers. Look to French fashion houses like Maison Martin Margiela and Barbara Bui, both of which added dimension and visual interest with a combination of precise-cuts and insouciant ease. Think sharp; look sharp.
If this all seems as logical as Advanced Calculus on a hangover, then adopting the back to school approach might help. Viktor & Rolf, House of Holland and Erdem gave the failsafe collegiate look the seal of approval with easy-to-wear references like knife pleats, turtle necks, Ivy League bows and East Coast loafers. Quite the appropriate attire when someone asks you, just what is pre-season fashion? Just tell them it’s a bit like The Late Late Show; there’s something for everyone in the audience.
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