Wine: The importance of buying local
O’Driscolls first opened its doors in 1948 so 2017 marks its 69th anniversary in business. The store is run by the second generation — Brendan and Neil O’Driscoll.
Neil’s daughter Kiara, who is a qualified chef, is in charge of the ever expanding hot food traiteur section, all prepared in the shop’s kitchen (she creates at least one new dish a month, apparently).
O’Driscolls has a strong focus on local food and on my visit I picked up some foods that are difficult to source elsewhere, including some of O’Driscoll’s own excellent spiced beef — Brendan reckons that more than 60% of its products are not available in supermarket multiples.
But of course the reason I’m featuring it here is its huge range of around 700 wines which must rival any shop in Cork and most others in the country.
The range is firmly focused on wines at entry up to the middle level, but I spotted everything from Barbaresco to Buckfast and a bottle of 2006 Vintage Dom Perignon (sitting nonchalantly on the cold meats counter).
In the fizz section there was a choice of Pol Roger, Ayala, and Bollinger, plus the rarely seen but excellent Segura Viudas Cava plus of course Prosecco and Crémant.
Spain is a particular highlight with most of the big houses covered such as Marques de Cacares, Muga, Torres, Beronia, and Coto de Imaz, along with Albariño, Verdejo, Godello and Bierzo from north-west Spain.
The Portugal section is a decent size to reflect our growing interest in this great value producer. Chile (eg, Leyda Pinot Noir) and Argentina are well represented as is Australia with the excellent Penfolds Riesling and Little Yering Shiraz-Viognier two standouts.
In the organic section, specialist importer Mary Pawle’s wines are well represented with reds and whites from the excellent Albet i Noya and a couple of Feely wines.
There is lots from France including Chablis and Sancerre, plus Louis Jadot and Chateau Segonzac from Bordeaux.
BEST VALUE UNDER €15
J.J. O’Driscolls Superstore Cork
This is an outstandingly good price for this wine which is frequently on offer at two for €21.
The current vintage has bright gooseberry and tropical fruit on the nose with sweet apple hints — full flavoured and rich on the palate with a bracing fresh finish. Try with a Thai curry or with fish and chips.
JJ O’Driscolls Superstore Cork, Karwigs Carrigaline
Imported by Karwigs (who are well stocked by O’Driscolls), this is a blend of grenache, carignan, syrah and merlot from the Hérault Départment in the Languedoc.
Fine juicy berry-rich aroma and flavours with good freshness and character, in fact far more flavour than a wine this price deserves.
JJ O’Driscolls Superstore Cork
Finding decent Rioja under €15 is not easy and it has good provenance as it is from the producers of Martin Codax Albariño.
I liked this understated fruity wine which has good plum and black raspberry fruit that lingers with cedar and a light spice character.
BEST VALUE OVER €15
JJ O’Driscolls Cork, Mitchells IFSC & Sandycove
Ayala (owned by Bollinger) was once the house Champagne in Arbutus Lodge — O’Driscolls of course stock Arbutus bread so why not serve this with some smoked salmon paté on toasted Arbutus sourdough.
This is very dry with just 7g of sugar, a fine persistent mousse, aromas of white flowers and toasted brioche and a soft silky texture.
JJ O’Driscolls Cork
Manchuela is another of those good value lesser known Spanish DO’s and is located to the north of Valencia. A blend of Tempranillo, Petit Verdot and Syrah this has dark black fruit flavours with supple tannins and a lingering raisin character perfect for dark winter evenings.
JJ O’Driscolls, Ardkeen Stores Waterford, widely available
This was I believe the first Albariño on the Irish market (certainly the first to be widely available) and is still a supremely well run co-op that pays on quality of grapes rather than quantity.
Ripe stone fruit aromas — nectarines and sweet apricot aromas, weighty on the palate with a clean, dry, almost saline finish.
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