Find the roots of Samhain with the spirits of the Aran Islands

Sick of the commercialism of Hallowe’en nowadays? Want to return to Samhain’s roots? Well maybe it’s time to take a trip to the Aran Islands, says Ken Phelan, and check out the vibrant local traditions of All-Hallow’s Eve

The islanders of Inis Mór take Halloween rather seriously; when Halloween descends you would be forgiven for thinking you were in a Boris Karloff movie rather than on the largest of the Aran islands. On Inis Mór, a different brand of horror is in play, one which has been passed down through generations, and is infinitely more ghoulish.

On Halloween, an eerie silence befalls Inis Mór, for it is tradition that no-one speaks of until midnight, the witching hour. People dress up, as is the customary Halloween tradition, but faces are hidden and a cloak of anonymity worn so that neighbour will not recognise neighbour.