Réserve des Vignerons, Saumur, Loire Valley 2010 — €13.99-14.99
Of course while the kids are off swimming or at a circus workshop the grown-ups should have time to visit a couple of vineyards.
Most regions have a co-operative that offers free tastings with no obligation to buy and they are a good place to start. Small producers are often happy to offer tastings, although some require an appointment. You may feel obliged to buy some wine so choose the producers you visit carefully.
The best book to buy is Le Guide Hachette des Vins (or visit hachette-vins.com) which is published every year and rates thousands of producers’ wines and gives opening times and other information. The book is widely available and easily readable with school French. The Italian equivalent is the Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia.
Wine shops in France are often overpriced and wine warehouses at the ports are not recommended unless you know what you are buying (although there is one in Cherboug that is quite good). French supermarkets are notoriously inconsistent so only buy quantities of wine you have tasted or from producers you know by reputation.
Most wine towns have a Maison du Vin which sells wines at cellar door prices and can provide information about visiting producers. In a town like St Emilion or Margaux, this is where you should buy wine, not from a shop.
The best-value wine is bought direct from the producer in less fashionable regions such as the Loire Valley (Saumur, Bourgueil, Chinon) or the south-west (Cotes de Duras, Gaillac, Madiran). If you would like to tour a famous chateau (say in Bordeaux) there is usually a charge. A visit to the cellars of a Champagne house like Moet et Chandon might starts at €21 but will include a good-sized glass of Champagne.
Wines this week are all French from regions I recommend visiting.
Réserve des Vignerons, Saumur, Loire Valley 2010 — €13.99-14.99
1601 Kinsale, Ardkeen Waterford, Vintry Rathgar, Redmonds Ranelagh, Martins Fairview
From the co-operative in Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg near Saumur which has had good investment in recent years. Pure Cabernet Franc (the mother of Cab Sauvignon) with lots of red fruit flavour and a good introduction to this region’s classic grape. The white Chenin Blanc is also worth trying.
JJ O’Driscoll Ballinlough, Vanilla Grape Kenmare, Stacks Listowel, Next Door Youghal, Deveneys Dundrum
Gascony is one of the culinary capitals of France . This is one of France’s biggest selling wines and has lovely clean fresh zesty flavours with peach and lemon zest flavours perfect for summer. The sweet Première-Grives is perfect for foie gras.
Bradleys Cork, Hollands Bray
Muscadet is just south of the city of Nantes, one of France’s most vibrant cities with a strong Celtic (Breton) character. Watch out for “sur lie” wines which rest on the lees after fermentation to give extra character. This is typical crisp clean and fresh with a slightly salty note, perfect for Breton or Irish oysters.
Domaine de Villargeau Coteaux du Giennois, Loire Valley — €16.99
Sweeneys, Thomas’s Foxrock, Deveneys Rathmines, Gerrys Skerries, Cashel Wine Cellar, JJ O’Driscolls, 1601 Kinsale.
This supremely elegant and floral Sauvignon Blanc is a world away from new world versions with a concentrated lemon oil character and a mineral backbone. New to the market and worth trying.
1601 Kinsale, O’Donovans, Ardkeen Stores, Drink Store D7, Vintry Rathgar
Chateau Bellevue le Foret is owned by Irishman Philip Grant and this reserve version is made with a blend of the local Negrette and Syrah. Rich tobacco and liquorice with spicy black fruit flavours.
Marks and Spencer
This is from near Perpignan close to the border with Spain and the wines here have a distinct Spanish character. The average age of the vines on this estate is over 50 years old which gives smaller, more concentrated, berries. Sweet baked plums nose with a rich fruit-driven flavour and a spicy-sweet character — almost too drinkable.
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