Marqués de Riscal Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Rueda — €14.49
The reason is fairly simple, Spain is producing some of the most interesting and exciting wines at the moment and its mix of the traditional and the new is very hard to resist.
To begin with the traditional: Sr José Luis Muguiro of the Marqués de Riscal family gave an interesting (and gossipy) masterclass on his family’s wines recently. Sr Muguiro learned his English as a teenager while living on a dairy farm in Riverstick in Co Cork for a few months.
Riscal in many ways typifies Spanish wine at the moment given the ultra traditional Rioja they produce, but also their willingness to embrace the new.
Riscal were largely responsible for the rediscovery of the Rueda region and have long championed the native Verdejo grape. In 2006 they opened a hotel and “City of Wine” complex designed by Frank Gehry (of Guggenheim Bilbao fame) and its titanium clad curves dominate the landscape.
As befits a star architect, there is also a Cuvée Frank Gehry wine in a bottle designed by the man himself, which is perfect for sharing with celebrity friends. You can buy a bottle for €400 if you visit the winery but (whisper it), I actually preferred the Reserva Riscal I recommend below.
The other region I highlight below is Bierzo, a region few of us had heard of until recently but I have yet to taste a dull wine from here, thanks to the use of native grapes and careful winemaking.
Bierzo is in the province of Leon near Galicia and is close to Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras, two other obscure but interesting regions.
Some of the recommendations below are from James Nicholson whose shop in Crossgar, County Down is well worth a detour if you are on your way up north. Nicholson’s wines are available online but are gradually beginning to appear in shops in the Republic and on restaurant lists.
Stockists: O’Donovans, SuperValu, Londis, Molloys, O’Briens
Sauvignon Blanc grows very well in Rueda and is sometimes blended with the native Verdejo grape but here it is given a chance to shine on its own. The weather in 2013 particularly suited Sauvignon and this just bursts out of the glass with clean crisp citrus and apple aromas and flavours. Elegant and supremely refreshing.
Stockists: O’Donovans, Londis, Molloys, O’Briens, Next Door, Independents
Made from grapes grown on the alluvial soils near the river Duero this also contains Merlot and Syrah and has some oak aging. Bright fruity style with a fine balance of fruit, acidity and soft tannins. There is a lush and supple quality to the fruit and this could easily be lightly chilled for summer drinking.
Stockists: James Nicholson Crossgar, Co. Down. Online via: www.jnwine.com
Rueda at its best has fragrance balanced with acidity but thanks I suspect to its extended lees contact (resting on the spent yeast) this has fine apricot and peach aromas with slight green notes and hits the palate softly before the citrus and mineral notes kick in giving a vibrant fresh finish. Try with shellfish or grilled sole.
Stockists: Dunnes Stores, SuperValu, Londis, Centra, Molloys, Next Door, Independents
This benchmark Rioja is 90% Tempranillo with a small portion of Graciano and Mazuela and (as is traditional) is aged in American oak and in bottle before release. The oak gives aromas of vanilla, clove and dill which combine well with the black fruit and spice flavours. Perfect for char-grilled meats.
Stockists: Black Pig Donnybrook, James Nicholson Crossgar, Co. Down. Online via: www.jnwine.com
The Godello grape from Galicia is still very much under the radar but is well worth investigating even at the cheapest level. This is not a cheap version but flavours this intense never come cheap. Aromas of butter, sweet apples and lemon cream with ripe tropical fruit flavours and a fine mineral fresh finish.
Stockists: Cashel Wine Cellars, Mortons of Galway, The Counter Letterkenny, James Nicholson Crossgar, Co. Down. Online via: www.jnwine.com
Mencía is the main red grape grown in Bierzo, north west Spain and along with Godello is worth exploring. This spends 6-9 months in third fill French and US oak which round out the flavours but does not add obvious oak flavours or detract from the bright juicy ripe red fruit flavours.
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