Viña Maipo Reserve Sauvignon Blanc
It is remarkable, given our punitive alcohol duty and taxes, that it is possible to buy wine at such low prices these days with many shops offering them under €8 and sometimes for as little €4 in supermarket sales.
Duty is currently around €3.50 per bottle when you include VAT, so almost all wines costing under €7 are being sold at a loss somewhere along the line — whether that loss was incurred by the retailer, wholesaler or winemaker.
There are some countries however that seem to be able to produce vast quantities of very drinkable fermented grape juice at very low prices and Chile is easily the most consistent in my view. Argentina is a close second but then many of Argentina’s wineries available here are owned by Chilean firms.
Chile is currently the second most popular wine producer in Ireland after Australia but I predict they will soon pass it, given how much they have come to dominate the lower end of the market. Argentina is a long way behind in volume terms but not in quality and in fact can offer a wider variety of flavours than Chile.
My wines this week are all from Dunnes Stores who organised a comprehensive tasting of the wines of Viña Maipo and their subsidiary wineries a few weeks back (in fact all of these brands are ultimately owned by Concha Y Toro). One surprise was the consistency but also the quality of less common Chilean grapes such as Syrah which was only introduced to Chile in the 1990s. I liked the Viña Maipo Limited Edition Maipo Syrah at around €20.
Carignan is another grape that you rarely see from Chile but there are some old vine plantings worth exploring such as the cherry scented Canepa Genovino Carignan which sells for around €20 in Dunnes and is made from 60-year-old vines.
Due to docker strikes in Chile the availability of some of these wines may be delayed.
Viña Maipo Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Chile — €9.50 (was €11.50)
Stockist: Dunnes Stores
Chile rules the Sauvignon Blanc world at this price level with only the occasional Loire or Languedoc Sauv Blanc able to compete. Classic bright crisp citrus and gooseberry aromas with a bright fresh lemon and green apple finish.
Trivento Bonarda, Argentina — €9.50 (was €11.50)
Stockist: Dunnes Stores
Bonarda is one of the most widely planted red grapes in Argentina but only a few are imported here, mainly because they are difficult to sell. Trivento’s Bonarda is typical — lighter and fresher than Malbec with red fruits, a hint of spice and chocolate and a dry finish. If the weather is warm feel free to drink this a little cooler at around 10 degrees.
Palo Alto Winemakers Selection — €8.00 (was €16)
Stockist: Dunnes Stores
This is an unusual blend of 50% Syrah, 23% Cab. Sauvignon plus some Merlot, Carmenere and Petite Syrah. Dark blackcurrant fruit aromas with a hint of smoke and a very solid juicy middle palate and complex finish.
Trivento Amado Sur Torrontés, Argentina — €11.50 (was €15)
Stockist: Dunnes Stores
Torrontés is Argentina’s most aromatic grape variety with aromas not unlike that of muscat grapes. This Torrontés is blended with a little Viognier and Chardonnay and is intensely fragrant with over-ripe white peaches and apricots with nice weight and depth and a reasonably dry lemony finish.
Trivento Amado Sur Malbec, Argentina — €11.50 (was €15)
Stockist: Dunnes Stores
This contains a small portion of Bonarda and Syrah (around 10% each) and has a deep purple colour with soft earthy aromas mixed with ripe plums and a touch of tar. Clean structured fruit flavours with a slightly savoury flavour and not a little elegance.
Maycas del Limarí Reserva Especial Pinot Noir, Chile — €14 (was €17)
Stockist: Dunnes Stores
From the Limarí valley in Northern Chile. Juicy ripe aromas of raspberries and red currants, good solid fruity centre with good ripeness but also with a little structure. A riper Pinot Noir than most and all the better for it.
