Santa Alicia Reserva Malbec

IS GREAT wine made in the vineyard or in the winery?

There was a time when this question was what distinguished the old world from the new with a typical French or Italian winemaker describing themselves as mere stewards of the land whose job was to interfere as little as possible and let nature do her work.

20 years ago the average Californian or Kiwi winemaker would have taken most of the credit. Visits to Spain and France this year, however, showed just how much the wine world has changed and I was shown far more computer-controlled fermentation tanks than vineyards. Talking with Clive Westin of Nautilus Wines from New Zealand recently I was pleased that we talked about soil and vineyards rather than technological innovations. We talked for example about the natural acidity and minerality of grapes from the Opawa vineyard (“smoky water” in Maori) located on a dry river bed which produces most of their nervy and (relatively) subtle Sauvignon Blanc. We also talked about how the Clay Hills in Marlborough provided the backbone for Nautilus Pinot Noir while the cooler vineyards of Kaituna and Awatere provide structure and fragrance. Nautilus’s Pinot has a lovely dense red-currant and spicy plum flavoured character and is available for around €28 in McCabes Blackrock, 64 Wines and Superquinn.

Awatere also provides the spicy pear and lime in Nautilus’s Pinot Gris (€21) which make it a match for Thai curries and salads.

* Wine talk and wine tasting with Eric Narioo, of Les Caves des Pyrène and Pascal Rossignol, of Le Caveau in The Grain Store at Ballymaloe, Sunday, May 26, 6.30pm €15. Email: [e-mail]

* Secret Beer Garden Beer Festival, Dundrum Town Centre, Saturday May 25, 2-10pm. Deveneys Dundrum annual craft beer festival is bigger than ever this year and absolutely not to be missed. Admission €20 which includes 3 beer vouchers and a free glass. www.beerfestival.ie

Best value under €10

Santa Alicia Reserva Malbec, Argentina — €9.19 (was €11.49)

Stockists: Curious Wines, Cork; Red Nose, Clonmel; McHughs, Dublin.

Dark purple in colour with aromas of brambles and blackcurrants with hints of violets. A solid juicy palate packed with damsons and with some good structure making this a good wine to serve with steak or lamb and also with spicy food.

Antares Sauvignon Blanc, Chile — €7.99

Stockists: Cork: No. 21, O’Sullivans, Blarney; The Coin, Tralee; Flahives, Ballyheigue; No5 Lismore, Ardkeen Stores.

Antares is owned by Santa Carolina and all their wines are worth a try. This has nice fresh citrus, apple and a little gooseberry on the nose and a crisp dry palate. Chile is always a little more subtle than New Zealand and this would work well with some barbecued fish once the sun comes out.

Lidl Chianti Reserva 2009 — €6.99

Stockist: Lidl

Dark ruby colour, cherries and plums on the nose and on the palate with some nice weight and acidity. I would suggest serving this a little cooler than room temperature and with robust flavours such as pizza or bolognese.

Best value under €20

Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough — €18.99

Stockists: Cork: JJ O’Driscoll, Matsons. Dublin: Corkscrew, McCabes.

Nautilus wines are always a little more subtle than other NZ wines and their Sauv Blancs is no exception. Pure lime essence on the nose, green apple and under-ripe pear flavours, sprightly acidity and good persistence. A fine example of what an extra few Euro can buy you.

Tiki Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough — €15.99

Stockists: JJ O’Driscoll, Matsons, Pegasus, Clonakilty. Dublin: Vintry, McCabes, Jus de Vine, Deveneys.

New Zealand Sauv Blancs are always robust and fruit driven and this is just that, but more so. Intense lime, gooseberry and elder-flowers on the nose and a bright intensely fresh palate packed with citrus fruit. Perfect for spicy fish dishes and salmon.

Curious Kiwi Pinot Noir 2010 — €19.99

Stockists: Red Nose Clonmel, Curious Wines Cork

Light ruby colour, classic Pinot Noir aromas of red fruits with a background spice and earthiness. Bright ripe cherry fruit on the palate with some stewed fruits, soft edges and a lingering finish. This calls out for some new season lamb or perhaps a rare duck breast cooked on the barbecue.